You can type here any text you want

Look what i broke....discovered

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
jamericaniSS said:
How do u take off the main caps to check the bearing. I tried by hand and almost broke my hand :rolleyes:

I use a 24 or 30" breaker bar.
Yes, they're tight.
 
jamericaniSS said:
Ok guy pulled the pan and here is what i found. Paper like material in the pan and on the oil pick up. I also found two small burgandy plastic teeny little rectangle pieces, could be teeth, its not metal though. I did see minute and few metal shaving pieces, like little sparkles, but not much, no big chunks of anything. No bronze looking metal pieces either, just silver.

Here is my conclusion, i have a blown HG. This would explain the disappearing coolant over a period of time. By the way im not using coolant im using rmi-25 and distilled water. The minute silver dust i see could be the balancer material that wore away.

I havent pulled a main cap yet, that is next, need to get my torque wrench first, will post pics

This is all on limited mechanical knowledge so bare with me, not claiming anything, just here to learn, one bolt at a time.
I did not see any coolant in the oil and you said your compression readings were good.
Jeff
 
Jeff Rand said:
I did not see any coolant in the oil and you said your compression readings were good.
Jeff

Your right about no coolant in the oil. Im using rmi-25 and distilled water, so no coolant, however if its a minor blown HG wouldnt it cause some of the water, not much to get in the oil. Remember i had mentioned that we put engine sealant into the radiator and the disappearing fluid problem stopped about 95%.

There is still paper debre in the pan so i really dont know where else it would come from :confused: ......Well i got the parts so im going to attempt to take off a main cap again.

Correct me if im wrong, when you pull a main cap, can you use the same bolts to bolt it back up or do you have to change them.

Thanks for all the responses
 
Ok i pulled #3 and here are the pics below. I got the bolts off #2, but cant seem to pull the main cap off, it seems to be on there pretty tight

There was no sign of bronze showing on the bearing
 

Attachments

  • P1000724.JPG
    P1000724.JPG
    148.2 KB · Views: 88
  • P1000725.JPG
    P1000725.JPG
    124.6 KB · Views: 82
  • P1000726.JPG
    P1000726.JPG
    133.3 KB · Views: 75
  • P1000727.JPG
    P1000727.JPG
    154.7 KB · Views: 68
Forgot to mention while under there i looked at the piston walls and i could see the cross hairs (dont know what else to call them) no groves. Looked at the cam the best i could and didnt see any scaring on the lobes from the parts of it that i was able to see.
 
Anthony, Did you say you saw plastic chunks in the pan?? If so, I would throw a timing chain on it while you have the cover off.
 
Yeah i found two broken burgandy plastic teeth looking pieces about 1 cm long. There was no chunks of plastic pieces in the oil
 
jamericaniSS said:
Forgot to mention while under there i looked at the piston walls and i could see the cross hairs (dont know what else to call them) no groves. Looked at the cam the best i could and didnt see any scaring on the lobes from the parts of it that i was able to see.

Well at least you had some good news.

The burgundy bits are probably pieces off of the Cam Timing Chain Sprocket.

At least stage be sure to be critical of what you're looking at since anything you skip can easily bite you, and after this much work, you want to do it right the first time. I don't mean state the obvious too much, it's just people can try and save a buck, and wind up doing things twice is all.
 
No problem understood. Currently draining coolant for the rest of the removal tomm. I just realized from reading that i need to put some lube on the bearing before putting it back on.

1. Can i use engine assembly lube from auto parts store. (brand specific or no)

2. Do i need to put lube on both the crank and the bearing before install.

3. Can i use the original bolts

4. The bolts require thread sealer right.(teflon based)
 
LV GN said:
the balancer scott is selling is externaly balanced for a stock crank and has already been machined for .001 press.

Ahhh, lets see:

Scott Atk said:
I hate to spam your post but. I've got a nice external balance (stock replacement) BHJ balancer for $175. If you're interested.

Bolding mine
I can read - really :p

Got to stop posting in my sleep ;)
 
1. Can i use engine assembly lube from auto parts store. (brand specific or no) yes you can. i have used a tube of white engine assy lube with good results.

2. Do i need to put lube on both the crank and the bearing before install. just one of them, completely covered. if you put too much, it'll just get squeezed out.

3. Can i use the original bolts
yes, reuse the original bolts

4. The bolts require thread sealer right.(teflon based)
main bolts DO NOT use thread sealant of any type.
 
Squid4life said:
1. Can i use engine assembly lube from auto parts store. (brand specific or no) yes you can. i have used a tube of white engine assy lube with good results.

2. Do i need to put lube on both the crank and the bearing before install. just one of them, completely covered. if you put too much, it'll just get squeezed out.

3. Can i use the original bolts
yes, reuse the original bolts

4. The bolts require thread sealer right.(teflon based)
main bolts DO NOT use thread sealant of any type.

Great. Thanks for the info. Tommorrows mission is the dreaded front cover. I have a strong feeling im going to take this car apart bolt by bolt. I might as well look at the cam while im there, so i will truely know whats in my motor.
 
If you think your headgaskets are going, and you want to look at the cam, It's time to borrow or rent an engine hoist and pull the engine. You CAN do all this work in the chassis, but you are almost stripping the engine in the chassis now. You'll do better work on an engine stand. Take your time, ask questions. Lots of very experienced engine guys on this board.

Dave
 
If the snout of your crank is chewed from the loose balancer you can have it plated and reground. Ive had it done before and it works fine. Your bearings show a lot of contact with the crank. How is you oil pressure hot? I suggest pulling the engine and replacing the bearings (including the cam bearings) and replacing the head gaskets and timing set. Dont scrimp now or you will have a bigger headache later.
 
bison said:
If the snout of your crank is chewed from the loose balancer you can have it plated and reground. Ive had it done before and it works fine. Your bearings show a lot of contact with the crank. How is you oil pressure hot? I suggest pulling the engine and replacing the bearings (including the cam bearings) and replacing the head gaskets and timing set. Dont scrimp now or you will have a bigger headache later.

The snout of the crank was chewed up. I got another balancer and fits snug, when it was bolted down it did not wobble at all compared to the last one that was worn out. When i finish pulling the engine i will mic the crank key like bruce said and redo all the bearings just for a piece of mind. Possibly polishing or turning the crank, it all depends on when we tear it down further. Thanks for the heads up though.
 
I guess i will bring this thread back from the dead just to give ya'll an update. Took the car to don lee auto service in upland with some ported stockers (thanks scott w). They bolted everything back up b/c i forgot how to put it back together, i drove the car for 12 weeks back and forth to school. Then i drove it to florida in 1.5 days (yes i took naps). The car didnt stop, stutter, sneeze or hiccup. When i got to florida safely i even dropped the hammer a number of times, the car again behaved nicely.

So i didnt need a new engine after all (thanks howard for the wrong advice). Thanks to all that gave me advice and guided me through whatever catastrophe i created.

So until the next bomb goes off in my car.... :)
 
Back
Top