Looking for new Turbo Just plain lost on what to get :(

[bison]

Humm I let the car shift its self it shifts around 5600-5700 Rpm every gear
I tried to take a photo of the time slip but its to light on yellow paper and you cant see any of so Ill just type it in below let me know what you think


Left off the foot brake at like 4-5lbs of boost also on this pass
1.7639 60 foot
4.6132 330 ft.
7.06 1/8th mile
99.75 Mph 1/8th mile
9.2080 1000 foot
113.36 mph 1000 foot
11.0432 1/4 mile
121.29 mph 1/4 mile

Your not picking up enough mph form eighth to quarter either. You should b e going at least 124mph with the 99.75 eighth mph. What is your converter slip %? Give us your rpm at the traps and the tire height. Car has a 10.70 in it easily with a better 60' and a little more mph.

 

[thunderace31]

I remember my days with the e-brake. Thunderace make sure the e-brake is released slightly before the foot brake or you will tear up the backing plates.

I think Im gonna just try the trans brake everyone loves them for what ever reason. The idea just scares me abit for what ever unknown reason my just be I have never used one Or the fear of putting the car on the rear bumper lol
But I have it I may as well give it a shot! So next track day (If it ever stops raining here lol) Its going to be run!

 

[thunderace31]

Your not picking up enough mph form eighth to quarter either. You should b e going at least 124mph with the 99.75 eighth mph. What is your converter slip %? Give us your rpm at the traps and the tire height. Car has a 10.70 in it easily with a better 60' and a little more mph.

Shift light comes on at 5700 and its not on threw the lights my guess is 5500 I really never looked at just the boost gauge and the Scanmaster, but I do let it shift to 4th gear as the car seem to go faster that way with the old converter. I have only maid 4 pass's with the art car N/L "o" stall in the car.
11.456 119 @ 25-26psi 6o foot was a 1.63!
11.425 118 @ 27psi Old chip set for 104 oct. 60 foot was 2.07 didnt get a good burn out

Changed the chip to the new one I got for 116 oct.
11.392 119 @ 22-23psi
and 11.04 121 @ 28-29 psi
Now I suspect the computer was still learning on the 2 fastest pass's but not sure since I didnt drive the car any farther than the around the track and into the lanes to make a run
I do know the car really picked up on the 11.04 pass about the 1/8th mile it was what I thought would be a 10 sec pass the car was on a mission!

Hope this info helps everyone find me the issues to look for

 

[thunderace31]

Oh forgot tires are 28" tall Hoosier quicktime pros I run them at 10psi at the track

 

[thunderace31]

There is a port on the unit that can be hooked up to any PC or laptop with a functioning USB port. You can run and log 4 other 5 volt sensors on there if you would like also. You could wire in a 3 bar MAP sensor to log boost vs. tps etc.

Thanks binson! so all I need is an LM1 then???

 

[Dusty Bradford]

I used direct scan, now I do mostly FAST systems. The power logger seems to be a great product. Bob Bailey doesn't make junk so I'm very sure you'll be happy with that. If I had a stock ecm car, I'd probably go with the power logger.

You don't have to use the t-brake. The e-brake is a little wierd at first but is a good alternative. If you launch on the transbrake and the car doesn't build boost any more on the line after that pass. Give me a call and I'll get you a better converter. We've broken sprags in 2 of the A/C converters from t-brake launches . T-brake's are great for launching the car when the parts are there to support it.

The quick time pro's are good but not as good as a M/T slick. I ran the pro's and they wore out and wouldn't hook after about 4 months of racing. If the tires are old, that could be part of the 60 foot issues.

4-5 tenths is HUGE. It will take a great 60 foot for the first 2-3 tenths. After that it will be tune and power. It's gonna take 34-35# of boost. The 67 is plenty capable of that. Hartline's Performance is a Precision dealer and can get that turbo.

 

[bison]

You should not be going into OD. If you are and picking up there is something else going on with the converter. You should never be in OD drag racing especially with a 28" tire. Thats killing your eighth to quarter et and mph. You already have an easy 10 second build. Just get the slip and get it done. No OD drag racing!

 

[bison]

Thanks binson! so all I need is an LM1 then???

Yes and you can use it on any car that has a bung for it. It doent require anything to display the a/f ratio. Its right on the screen with a fast sample rate while your on it. I think you can log up to 14 minutes of a/f's. Or you could run any O2 car in open loop and use the factory O2 sensor location though its not ideal because the heat in that spot is usually too much and will read wrong when the sensor gets too hot.

 

[RUQWKNF]

I'll second what bison just said.

From day one of racing any of my Turbo Buicks with a 27" or 28" tall tire, I never shifted into OD with the 200 trans and Art Carr 9" non lock up converter. Drive is the correct gear to be in, unless you are manually shift the 2-3 because of higher rpm capabilites. Which of course your current combo does not offer. By manually shifting, this means launching the car with the shifter in 2nd, letting the trans shift the 1-2 by itself, then you shift the 2-3 when you reach your shift point as told by an aftermarket tach and or shift light. Still you wouldn't shift into OD tho. You have a 10 second car on the foot brake if you launch harder and leave it in drive.
E-brake is your friend...
I recommend the Power Logger and the LM-1 Wide band setup. Might want to ask Full Throttle if it is compatible with the LM-1 and datalogging. I bet it is, but not 100% sure.

Patrick

 

[thunderace31]

I used direct scan, now I do mostly FAST systems. The power logger seems to be a great product. Bob Bailey doesn't make junk so I'm very sure you'll be happy with that. If I had a stock ecm car, I'd probably go with the power logger.

You don't have to use the t-brake. The e-brake is a little wierd at first but is a good alternative. If you launch on the transbrake and the car doesn't build boost any more on the line after that pass. Give me a call and I'll get you a better converter. We've broken sprags in 2 of the A/C converters from t-brake launches . T-brake's are great for launching the car when the parts are there to support it.

The quick time pro's are good but not as good as a M/T slick. I ran the pro's and they wore out and wouldn't hook after about 4 months of racing. If the tires are old, that could be part of the 60 foot issues.

4-5 tenths is HUGE. It will take a great 60 foot for the first 2-3 tenths. After that it will be tune and power. It's gonna take 34-35# of boost. The 67 is plenty capable of that. Hartline's Performance is a Precision dealer and can get that turbo.

Humm I was told the Art Carr was the best converter for what I was trying to do. Its a real one not the knock off
Brian my trans guy (from this board) did my trans and hes the one that said to get this one
I hope your wrong as the Pats performance one before this didnt last either Thanks for the info on the power loger Ill be ordering that soon

 

[thunderace31]

You should not be going into OD. If you are and picking up there is something else going on with the converter. You should never be in OD drag racing especially with a 28" tire. Thats killing your eighth to quarter et and mph. You already have an easy 10 second build. Just get the slip and get it done. No OD drag racing!

Well I have to say I have yet to run the car in just drive with this trans and converter the old one was on the reving to 6800rpm with a 28" tire in Drive so I just raced it in od. My bad Next trip Ill be in Drive and hope for better #'s Guess that trans was way more screwed than I thought!

 

[thunderace31]

I'll second what bison just said.

From day one of racing any of my Turbo Buicks with a 27" or 28" tall tire, I never shifted into OD with the 200 trans and Art Carr 9" non lock up converter. Drive is the correct gear to be in, unless you are manually shift the 2-3 because of higher rpm capabilites. Which of course your current combo does not offer. By manually shifting, this means launching the car with the shifter in 2nd, letting the trans shift the 1-2 by itself, then you shift the 2-3 when you reach your shift point as told by an aftermarket tach and or shift light. Still you wouldn't shift into OD tho. You have a 10 second car on the foot brake if you launch harder and leave it in drive.
E-brake is your friend...
I recommend the Power Logger and the LM-1 Wide band setup. Might want to ask Full Throttle if it is compatible with the LM-1 and datalogging. I bet it is, but not 100% sure.

Patrick

Cool like I said above the car liked od before the trans and I just did what worked before so next track day Ill be leaving it in Drive
Ill call mike and check his forum for more info on the power loger and LM1 I bet it will work I think I just spent $700 without trying lol

 

[bison]

You were going to 6800 with the old converter? That thing was broken for sure. Im suprised the valves didnt float before that rpm. You should not be over 6000 with 28" tires in 3rd.

 

[thunderace31]

You were going to 6800 with the old converter? That thing was broken for sure. Im suprised the valves didnt float before that rpm. You should not be over 6000 with 28" tires in 3rd.

Trans and converter were slipping

The new one is way better its all rollerized and then the "0" Art Carr converter (California Trans is the real name of the place for those that didnt know and maybe following this thread)

 

[Dusty Bradford]

You should be fine with that converter. We were trying them in 9 second capable cars and launching off the t-brake. It was always the sprag that broke. Although they are no where near capable of the power he claims, they are fine for what you are doing.

I agree with everybody here. 3rd gear....No OD. If you have to go to od you have a problem.

 

[thunderace31]

You should be fine with that converter. We were trying them in 9 second capable cars and launching off the t-brake. It was always the sprag that broke. Although they are no where near capable of the power he claims, they are fine for what you are doing.

I agree with everybody here. 3rd gear....No OD. If you have to go to od you have a problem.

Thanks T-brake it is as my Parking brake has been frozen since I got the car and since I dont drive the thing that much and cant get it unstuck I so need to fuss with it

Have the brake may as well get used to using it

 

[thunderace31]

New question on Scan tools

Ok I was on the full Throttle site and looked at the Power logger and man that dosnt sound fun to install! Not big on taking the computer apart and modifieing it myself! NUTS to me!

So I fount the LM-3 AUX BOX that works with the LM-1 now dose this work similar and be easier to install for lame brain like me??

Next question if I go with Direct scan will it hook up easier and still allow the wideband 02 to be used with it??

I want to be able to read everything I need boost knock wide badn o2 air temp ect.

Im no wirring gurue so I prefer things that are more or less plug and play or cut and spice with a little soder if ya know what I mean lol

Thanks agian for the help and advice!
Derek

 

[TurboBob]

Direct Scan install is the same as Powerlogger.

Open the ECM, clean off the circuit board, reassemble.

Auxbox is not going to log Knock for you.

B

 

[thunderace31]

Direct Scan install is the same as Powerlogger.

Open the ECM, clean off the circuit board, reassemble.

Auxbox is not going to log Knock for you.

B

Hummm fun fun fun

 

[Eric Stage I]

Derek,
Install is not as bad as it looks for the power logger. If you want, send me the ECM and I'll stick it in there. You will have to modify your kick panel slightly, not a big deal. One cool thing about the power logger is you can connect your scanmaster to it to get much faster updates, and also display the wideband a/f and knock right next to each other on the main scanmaster display.

The rev limiter in your race chip is set to 6300. So if you leave it in D and you hit the limiter, you'll know something is slipping somewhere.

Even if you decide not to do the power logger, a wideband is a good thing.

Eric