You can type here any text you want

Looking to TA Performance header install suggestions

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

granatl

TRCM Author
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
1,167
I just received a set of TA Performance headers for my 87 GN. The header gaskets appear to be some composite material. What do you recommend? Soaking them in water overnight? Installing them dry? Thinly coating them with high-temp copper RTV? Also, any suggestions on the header-to-head bolt torque?
 
Jack, I know some recommend not using those gaskets and substituting REMFLEX gaskets instead. However, you're probably on a timeline with Phoenix fast approaching. I would just install them dry. You most likely won't have any issues. I do have a set of Felpro 1400's on the shelf if you would rather try them.
 
I don't use any gaskets. They eventually blow. Best bet clean the mating surfaces and use some high temp rtv.;)
 
I don't use any gaskets. They eventually blow. Best bet clean the mating surfaces and use some high temp rtv.;)

I might add, be sure to check your header flanges first, to be sure they are flat & not warped. Use a machinists straight edge.
I found my new TA Header flanges were warped before I even installed them. Had a reputable local automotive machine shop true them up. All is good now!
 
I just received a set of TA Performance headers for my 87 GN. The header gaskets appear to be some composite material. What do you recommend? Soaking them in water overnight? Installing them dry? Thinly coating them with high-temp copper RTV? Also, any suggestions on the header-to-head bolt torque?
I heard you died. I just used high heat(copper) RTV, no gaskets.
 
I might add, be sure to check your header flanges first, to be sure they are flat & not warped. Use a machinists straight edge.
I found my new TA Header flanges were warped before I even installed them. Had a reputable local automotive machine shop true them up. All is good now!

Not to be a smart ass, but I second that.....
 
OK. When they get back from adding the ceramic coating, I'll do what I can to check the straight edge, and then just use the copper RTV. Thanks for the help!
 
I might add, be sure to check your header flanges first, to be sure they are flat & not warped. Use a machinists straight edge.
I found my new TA Header flanges were warped before I even installed them. Had a reputable local automotive machine shop true them up. All is good now!


$1000+ dollars and they need surfacing? :(
 
Well, they're $750. They no longer sell the ones that are ceramic coated (or the stainless, I think), but haven't updated their website quite yet. Yeah, I'm a little surprised too; but I haven't checked mine yet.
 
OK. When they get back from adding the ceramic coating, I'll do what I can to check the straight edge, and then just use the copper RTV. Thanks for the help!

The manufacturer is supposed to check the flanges for being straight, but since a few sets were sent out with slight distortion, TA is now checking all headers flanges before shipping.

As far as using the gasket that comes with the set, it has proven to be very reliable with no sealant or soaking if the installation procedure of tightening the bolts after a heat cycle is done.

From my personal experience, I use the stock header bolts as they have a wave washer that will not loosen after final tightening. On alum heads, I always prefer to use studs with washer nuts that will not loosen, and the studs also prevent pulling threads from the heads.

Product improvement is always a prime objective with TA, and a bolt with better "holding" power is being investigated. :)

I always tell my customers to install the set complete, but do NOT tighten the bolts until all parts are in place. At that point progressively tighten the bolts in steps.
 
I installed them last night. I hate the v-band clamps, but otherwise, so far, so good, dry installed as per Nick's directions.
 
I sat with Nick for a little while on Saturday and mentioned my woes with those v-band clamps. If I heard him correctly, he's planning to provide some visual directions on how to modify the current clamps to make them easier to install; until a new clamp becomes available.

What I ended up doing was to use my pair of channel locks that are designed for removing oil filters. Hope this tip helps others too!
 
I sat with Nick for a little while on Saturday and mentioned my woes with those v-band clamps. If I heard him correctly, he's planning to provide some visual directions on how to modify the current clamps to make them easier to install; until a new clamp becomes available.

What I ended up doing was to use my pair of channel locks that are designed for removing oil filters. Hope this tip helps others too!

Bending the bolts is method that I used in the past, but after breaking a few bolts and having to pay $25 each for replacement, it was time for a better way.

The channel locks are still helpful, but this trick makes it much easier! :)

It is hard to describe without pics, and it will be a day or 2 before I can do a post to explain it properly.
 
Bending the bolts is method that I used in the past, but after breaking a few bolts and having to pay $25 each for replacement, it was time for a better way.

The channel locks are still helpful, but this trick makes it much easier! :)

It is hard to describe without pics, and it will be a day or 2 before I can do a post to explain it properly.

Nick,

Just a suggestion...have you thought about using quick release V band clamps in future kits? I'm using them on my headers and it is much easier to remove and install than the regular v band clamps. No need to bend the bolts and the nuts do not need to be completely removed to take the clamp off. :)
clamp.jpg
 
Back
Top