Mild cam questions

[PigGuy]

I have some questions that I think are dumb, but I will ask anyway. I've searched enough, and now I just want to ask.

I have to pull my intake, because I think I may have dropped a valve spring retainer in there while swapping springs... Then, while digging around with a magnet, I pulled a lifter out of it's slot. I figure I should swap the cam while I'm in there, as I don't want to open this up again in the future spending time and money when I could just do it now.

As a mild, lower-budget cam, I am thinking either the Comp Cams 206/206, or the 204/214.

I plan to upgrade turbo and injectors in a bit, but as of now, I am doing this in awkward, some might even say, backward stages.

I installed a 3000-3200 stall, I've yet to upgrade my turbo/injectors, but the fuel system is ready, transmission is ready, and the intercooler is stretched stock location made by some guy who's name I forgot, that, or it's a Precision. The aim will be a turbo for mid-11's on my pump gas & alky setup. Heads are not ported, nor will they be.

Here are the dumb questions:

Can I use these brand-new stock-replacement valve springs with a new cam? If I go with the 206/206, it sounds like people complain about the Comp Cams lifters. Are the lifters that come with the 204/214 much better?

Are these mild enough that I could keep my existing chip? It's an off-the-shelf chip the previous owner bought a decade ago... it runs quite rich. I plan to get something programed once I pick my turbo & injector combo.

 

[Nick Micale]

My opinion is go with the 206/206 cam as it has been a proven performance up grade.

A split duration cam especially with that much on the exhaust side will be of no benefit with stock heads, especially for street use.

Of course with so many Precision exhaust housings on the smaller turbos, they need all the help they can get for decent spooling.

You are not dumb, or asking dumb questions, you are just lost because you have not yet figured out where you want to go?

You should plan your build around your performance goals instead of just throwing parts at it.

 

[charlief1]

You are not dumb, or asking dumb questions, you are just lost because you have not yet figured out where you want to go?

You should plan your build around your performance goals instead of just throwing parts at it.

Asking questions is how you learn so it's not a dumb thing to do and there are really no "dumb" questions in most cases.

I agree with Nick here about figuring out what you want to do first though. Depending on what exactly you want will decide what cam you should use. I do disagree with Nick on a split duration split lift cam though. Until you get below the 10's a split cam biased to the exhaust will help the turbo spool faster but it's limited to a lower RPM level. Also remember that you really want an LSA of 112-114 degrees. The factory cam is also a split design cam and it's made it into the 10's. Once you really get in the higher HP range a cam with equal lifts and durations will work much better so this is where you need decide how you want the car to perform.

 

[Jerryl]

First off, as stated by Charlie . . . there is a LOT more to a cam than just duration!
(Remember the “¾ cams” in the 70’s-80’s . . . that must be a cam that only open the valve ¾ of the way . . . . LOL!)

I know Nick M. has "proven success" with the 206/206 cam. While it may look like a “budget cam”, it has gone 9’s . . . . on some type of budget.
I have also seen the 204/214 cam go 124-126 mph a few times . . . . . these are sold through GBodyparts, so they must believe them to be OK.
Mike at FTS has a lot of experience with our motors as well . . . and sells the split duration cams . . . . so he must believe in them.
I personally spoke to three of the best and very well-known builders many years ago about cams . . . . these builders would have nothing to do with exh. biased cams and/or split duration cams.

It is therefore my belief that cam choices for our motors really come down to the performance goal, and engine builder's preference which is a culmination of philosophy and experiences.
So . . . . . no one has a magic bullet, and this is why you need to get with ONE builder, explain your goal and budget, and STICK with them through the process.
Albeit “no news” . . . One thing I learned . . . . combination makes or breaks the performance.

Good luck . . . . Hope this clears up your cam selection challenge. LOL!!

 

[Nick Micale]

Actually there is a good reason for using a split duration cam biased to the exhaust side, and that is especially true when using the Precision turbo exhaust housing, because it needs all the help it can get to spool with smaller turbos, especially like the 44/49 and 60/61 units that are mainly street pieces, and this is also the case with a 45A which uses a 66mm wheel.

For mainly street use we prefer to use a Garrett exhaust housing as it has much better street manners, especially low end response.

When using larger turbos for higher performance which means higher RPM, and at this point a much higher stall converter, the cam needs to be selected for intended use AND combination.

If the car is used mainly on the street, cam choice is not a big deal as we have seen stock cams in the 10's with the proper combination.

 

[PigGuy]

So, should I really not consider swapping my cam? I figure if I'm going to have all this apart anyway, I might as well swap the cam?

I just ordered the 206/206, but now I am second guessing the purchase, and I have plenty of time to cancel the order. Thinking, maybe I should just leave it as-is. I plan on this being a mostly street car. More than anything, I hate getting things apart, then to have to go do it all over again later because I decided I wanted to swap the cam. I'd rather do all of this now, if it is something that in a year or two, after I get my turbo, I decide that I want to do a cam. Will there be a noticeable difference, despite not having ported heads?

 

[Jerryl]

If it was my car . . . . and it was a street driven . . . . with no cam problems . . . . I would leave it alone.
If I was going to swap cams . . . . . I would only swap to a roller in the 206-212 range . . . . But that is just me.

"When" your goals change, your combo and transmission may need to change as well so . . . . You may want to pick up the phone and call Nick. He is honest and won’t steer you wrong . . .

 

[Texas gn]

I remember going through all of this and it was confusing especially when you’re a SB Chevy guy for years! I went round and round trying to figure out what I need even though I wanted a mid to low 12 second car when I started….That didn’t last long when someone on the board said “ buy a car with a small block and save the turbo Buick for someone who wants to go fast” hello 11s. I also do not having any regrets getting my comp cam (in the sig). When I started the build i contact Brian at GbodyParts and I have been using his recipe/parts ever since.

 

[Mike Licht]

Cancel the order, a cam upgrade that small on stock heads will not show much if any improvment. Certainly not enough to justify the cost and labor.
Mike

 

[Pronto]

If your not porting the heads, not worth it unless the cam is toast.