N/A Build...PICS INSIDE!

[eastwoodad]

Unfortunately, not too much to report. Right now I have been focusing on body work and interior touch ups. I was hoping to get it painted in early spring.

I did put an Edelbrock 600 on it out of the box, and it has better driveablilty but seems to be running quite lean on the secondaries.

The wife and I just found out we are expecting our second kid, so things have been hectic on the family front...and work is picking back up thankfully. Don't worry...the car isnt going anywhere, it is just taking me FOREVER to get things done.

 

[VKREGAL]

Congrats on the kid, yea its taking me forever to get mine done. I'm running a 600 edelbrock also, it performs well with it. What colors are you looking to paint it?

 

[eastwoodad]

Thanks for the congrats...I didnt think the build could go slower...but I guess I am wrong. Oh well, family is always first and this will proceed as quick as it can.

I am not too happy with the Edelbrock...yet. Again I gotta find some time to fiddle with it. I plan on going with a pretty plain silver...not too much metal flake in it, but enough to be "metallic". It has a very odd jadestone color interior which limits what i can do with the exterior color.

 

[mat231v6]

nice vid i think i saw that one before. i dont know.

 

[eastwoodad]

Bringing this one back from the dead...once again.

Since I last posted, I installed a quadrajet from a early 70's Buick 350 that a friend rebuilt and got tuned in. The car runs and feels SOOOOOO much better, both performance and driveability. It still had a very slight off idle stutter, but I have learned to not pay attention to it anymore.

The horrible stock 12" lockup converter was KILLING it too. I finally got a spare rebuilt TH-350 with my new 10" 3200-3500 Jegs converter assembled and installed yesterday. It stalls more like 3000 or so behind the "slug" of a V6...haha, but is a great converter for the money. Let's just say that was better than any fireworks show...made quite a smoke show. It will easily powerbrake on command and is quite fun to drive now with the posi and 4.10's. I will try to get some video posted here or on my youtube account soon.

Aaron

 

[WarWagon]

Good update, I love the Q-jet too! and If I could run it now I would. I also still love the Kenn-Bell 2R Camshaft you have in the Regal. It's flat tappet I'm sure that's one I want to try with a turbo, more duration and lift on the exhaust, A Lot. Like to see/HEAR that new video when you get it done.
Thanks for bringing the thread back!.

 

[charlief1]

Glad to see you on for a change Aaron. How's the new addition doing?

As far as the stumble, you need a different spring in the primary hanger that has less tention. That usuaaly causes the stumble. I'll be waiting on the vid myself.

 

[eastwoodad]

Glad to see you on for a change Aaron. How's the new addition doing?

As far as the stumble, you need a different spring in the primary hanger that has less tention. That usuaaly causes the stumble. I'll be waiting on the vid myself.

The new baby boy is doing well...almost 8 months old now, so just starting to get time for some projects. The never-ending "home ownership" projects are slowing down car stuff too.

I'll have to try the carb trick, thanks! No stumble on the secondaries thank goodness, and it doesnt bog from a dead stop if I bring it up on the converter a little bit. Forgot to mention, I also hooked up an electric fan and it seems to rev a bit better...not to mention much quieter! I hope to get to the track a time or two once it cools down a little in the late summer.

I am trying to get a little bit of weight out of it too. I am going to gut the front and rear bumpers, removing as much of the structure as possible, maybe take some un-noticeable weight out of the interior. I want it to look fairly stock, but may run some plastic buckets if the stock 60/40 bench seat is heavy enough to worry about. I also got some used Jegs knock-off ProStars to help shed a bit of weight. Stupid thing better run a 15.xx

 

[charlief1]

The new baby boy is doing well...almost 8 months old now, so just starting to get time for some projects. The never-ending "home ownership" projects are slowing down car stuff too.

I'll have to try the carb trick, thanks! No stumble on the secondaries thank goodness, and it doesnt bog from a dead stop if I bring it up on the converter a little bit. Forgot to mention, I also hooked up an electric fan and it seems to rev a bit better...not to mention much quieter! I hope to get to the track a time or two once it cools down a little in the late summer.

I am trying to get a little bit of weight out of it too. I am going to gut the front and rear bumpers, removing as much of the structure as possible, maybe take some un-noticeable weight out of the interior. I want it to look fairly stock, but may run some plastic buckets if the stock 60/40 bench seat is heavy enough to worry about. I also got some used Jegs knock-off ProStars to help shed a bit of weight. Stupid thing better run a 15.xx

What kind of advance are you running on the distributor Aaron? You may be able to add some timing since it's NA. My old NA car had 42 degrees total timing, but it weighed less than 3K so it's not a fair comparison. You can cut the bumper suppors to the point that all then do is connect the shocks to the bumper like the export supports did. Have you scaled the car yet?

BTW, have you check my build out lately? You might find some tricks you can use to help it hook better.:smile:

 

[eastwoodad]

I have kept it conservative, because I have the stock computer controlled HEI on it, disconnected of course, so it is locked at about 34-36 degrees. I bought a even fire non-computer off ebay a while back, but fooled with it for a loooong time and could never get the car to start or even try to start. Replaced the coil, module, bushing, cap, etc with no luck. My thought is it might be in the reluctor or pickup. I gave up and put the stock one back in with the hi-po parts I bought. My thought process was that you typically are at full timing around 3000rpm anyway and the converter flashes above that so...

I have planned on doing just what you said, to leave just enough to mount the bumper. I might make up some new brackets to help take a little weight out of the factory bumper shocks. The car has power windows, but A/C is out (factory heater box still in place), manual steering, no computer, no smog, etc. My guess is 3300 or less??? My big block regal weighs 3600lbs with power steering, full interior, all steel, no lightening. When I go to the track it will go on the scales.

 

[charlief1]

If I remember right you've got an MSD box don't you? If not get one and get the timing control for it. That will allow you to start it on a lower timing and then move it up so you get more out of the car. It will also give you better bottom end to help you get off the line.

 

[eastwoodad]

No MSD box, just straight HEI with some MSD components in the distributor. It doesnt have huge compression (approx 9.5 to 1) and I have the high torque GM mini starter so I don't necessarily need the help on starting, even when heat soaked. I agree, I can use all the help in the torque category though!

 

[ek02]

I saw your posts on your N/A build. I have built 3 N/A's in recent years. I had a 3.8 with the same cam, heads, and manifold you are running. It ran strong in my Toyota pickup. Same trans and converter also. I built a 4.1 stroker with 270" and it runs way stronger than the 3.8. It has Champion heads, roller rockers, and a comp roller with the same specs as the MK2R Kenne Bell cam. 9.5 true compression.The difference is amazing with the bigger displacement. I think the roller cam and heads are also a big difference. I started with a 100 shot plate system and now have a 175 shot in it with a progressive controller, seperate fuel system for the fuel solenoid, and MSD digital 6 box that retards the timing when the NOS hits. 3.80 gears with a Detroit Locker and Curry axles in a Ford 8" rear. I ran 7.83 in the 1/8 with a 125 shot. A 150 shot ran slower due to wheelspin. The 175 shot and progressive controller went 7.60 on M/Tstreet radials. Glad to see somebody else building N/A's. Make sure you have enough fuel pressure and volume if you go to nitrous.

 

[charlief1]

No MSD box, just straight HEI with some MSD components in the distributor. It doesnt have huge compression (approx 9.5 to 1) and I have the high torque GM mini starter so I don't necessarily need the help on starting, even when heat soaked. I agree, I can use all the help in the torque category though!

A 6A box and timing master control would benifit you greatly Aaron. It would allow you to start it with low timing and drive it on the street and if you want to turn the timing up you can. The dial is on the dash so you just turn it up to 15 degrees extra. I'd say put it in the middle of the dial for starting and it will let you be able to fine tune the total timing. I still need to get one for mine but I do have a 6A box and a BTM. One of the other advantages is that you can also get rev limiter chips so you can run as hard as you want until it hits the limit.

Glad to see another NA guy on here. I know you're only running 1/8 mile but what kind of rpm level are you getting it to? Have you tried doing 1/4 mile yet?

 

[mat231v6]

I saw your posts on your N/A build. I have built 3 N/A's in recent years. I had a 3.8 with the same cam, heads, and manifold you are running. It ran strong in my Toyota pickup. Same trans and converter also. I built a 4.1 stroker with 270" and it runs way stronger than the 3.8. It has Champion heads, roller rockers, and a comp roller with the same specs as the MK2R Kenne Bell cam. 9.5 true compression.The difference is amazing with the bigger displacement. I think the roller cam and heads are also a big difference. I started with a 100 shot plate system and now have a 175 shot in it with a progressive controller, seperate fuel system for the fuel solenoid, and MSD digital 6 box that retards the timing when the NOS hits. 3.80 gears with a Detroit Locker and Curry axles in a Ford 8" rear. I ran 7.83 in the 1/8 with a 125 shot. A 150 shot ran slower due to wheelspin. The 175 shot and progressive controller went 7.60 on M/Tstreet radials. Glad to see somebody else building N/A's. Make sure you have enough fuel pressure and volume if you go to nitrous.

nitrous is the way to go! i use nitrous on the turbo setup i have now. i still have some stuff to do then i will take it down the track.

 

[eastwoodad]

Think I'll be OK spraying with the Q-Jet and mechanical fuel pump? I thought I remembered reading somewhere that vaccum secondaries were not ideal with nitrous...and will probably need a supplemental electric fuel pump for the fuel solenoid right? Seems like it will need consistent pressure for the solenoid to operate correctly.

 

[charlief1]

Send a PM to Adam and I'm sure he can help you with that question Aaron. He's been using it for a while.

 

[mat231v6]

Think I'll be OK spraying with the Q-Jet and mechanical fuel pump? I thought I remembered reading somewhere that vaccum secondaries were not ideal with nitrous...and will probably need a supplemental electric fuel pump for the fuel solenoid right? Seems like it will need consistent pressure for the solenoid to operate correctly.

use a electric fuel pump. what system are you running? power shot, super power shot, cheater, snipper? I use a cheater solenoid on the fuel side for my setup.

charlie i know some things about nitrous. i use it on my setup. i may be the only one who is using it on a drawthru setup. :biggrin:

 

[eastwoodad]

use a electric fuel pump. what system are you running? power shot, super power shot, cheater, snipper? I use a cheater solenoid on the fuel side for my setup.

charlie i know some things about nitrous. i use it on my setup. i may be the only one who is using it on a drawthru setup. :biggrin:

I was looking into the Sniper system, however that was based solely on cost. What are the major differences between the systems you mentioned?

Currently I only have a high output mechanical fuel pump. Should I just convert to an electric, or have an electric pump dedicated to the nitrous system?

 

[mat231v6]

I was looking into the Sniper system, however that was based solely on cost. What are the major differences between the systems you mentioned?

Currently I only have a high output mechanical fuel pump. Should I just convert to an electric, or have an electric pump dedicated to the nitrous system?

i run a electric pump because i dont want to have any issues. i use a dedicated system just for nitrous. I call it a cheap insurance policy. power shot is set at 125 can not be changed no jets. snipper is 100 - 150 has jet. cheater is 150 -250 i think. it has bigger solenoids, it uses jets too. super power shot is 50 -150 uses jets. keep in mind there all wet systems.