N/A Build...PICS INSIDE!

[charlief1]

What were your best 60 foot times with the 410 gears? curious thinking of putting steeper than 342 in my car.

Don't use bigger than a 3.73 Mike. Turbo cars that don't have a high engine RPM don't do well at high RPM. These engines really don't like to go over 6K after all.:smile:

 

[mat231v6]

Don't use bigger than a 3.73 Mike. Turbo cars that don't have a high engine RPM don't do well at high RPM. These engines really don't like to go over 6K after all.:smile:

mine does best in high RPMs.

 

[charlief1]

I'm talking about 8-9 grand Matt, not 6 grand. If you switch to a 4.11 or higher you'll run out of engine except on an 1/8 track. On the highway it'll spin much faster and use more gas as well.

 

[mat231v6]

I'm talking about 8-9 grand Matt, not 6 grand. If you switch to a 4.11 or higher you'll run out of engine except on an 1/8 track. On the highway it'll spin much faster and use more gas as well.

ok i get what your saying now.

 

[eastwoodad]

Got the "new" distributor working yesterday, now we have a good coil, module, etc and now a distributor that actually advances correctly. I probably won't be heading to the track this weekend, because it is the wife's birthday...and 100 degrees at the track isnt my idea of fun.

 

[mikemcvaney]

should run great now good luck

 

[eastwoodad]

Updating the thread for posterity...after the change to a 500 2bbl, weight reduction in the bumpers, and proper distributor.

Went consistent 15.20's at 87mph, with 2.05 60ft.

 

[ek02]

Glad to see you back on here. There are not many of us N/A guys around. Are you still planning on using nitrous?

 

[eastwoodad]

Thats the plan...100 to 150. I want to work out all the NA bugs first...only taken about 7 or 8 years...haha. Thankfully my dad has had an itch to work on it lately.

 

[ek02]

A NOS Super Power shot has jets for 100,125,and 150. You can also get jets for a 175 shot. That's the one that cracked the webs on my first 4.1 stroker block with detonation. A 100 shot is OK using what comes in the kit, but much more and you need to upgrade the fuel system to a pump with more GPH, or use a separate return type fuel system for race gas with a safety switch to turn off the nitrous if there is no fuel pressure. Also, the timing recommendations in the kit should not be followed. Later recommendations are for about double the spark retard. I use a MSD Digital 6 Plus box to fire the coil using the stock pickup coil. It can retard the spark up to 10 degrees when the nitrous hits, and has a rev limiter. I also use a progressive controller to roll the nitrous on so the tires don't get blown off, and a safety solenoid so there is no chance of nitrous filling the engine if the main solenoid leaks with the engine off. I use colder plugs and narrow the gap down. I used a girdle on the last block and the bottom end held up perfect. The decks cracked and a stud pulled out when I put it back together after a freshening up. Waiting for the next block to be machined for the girdle. Meanwhile, my iron head 270" spare is limited to a 100 shot to be safe. You will love the nitrous, but be conservative and then enjoy it. I have learned a lot the hard way.

 

[eastwoodad]

EK02, that is great advice. I had decided on the Super Power Shot kit, or the Sniper (not sure of the differences). I only would probably do 100, to 150max. I do have a high output mechanical pump on it, but was curious if there should be a supplemental electric pump to run the fuel solenoids, or whether the mechanical pump would be sufficient for a 100 shot.

For timing, I would just bump the distributor back for the runs with N2O. We are having a problem getting the distributor to advance more than about 12-14 degrees, so that should be fine to set it at 10-12 degrees initial and I would only be at 22-24 degrees total. Am I missing anything else?

 

[ek02]

Your fuel pump should be ok for the 100 shot. I ran a 125 shot with one fuel system also. I used an Edelbrock electric pump. It wasn't the highest GPH pump they make. If you go to the 150, you could use one of the fuel reservoir and fuel pump setups that Edelbrock makes. You can put race gas in the reservoir and plumb it to the fuel solenoid. I thought my distributor only had 12 degrees, and it does with stock springs. I used weaker springs from a curve kit, and I believe my distributor over advanced over 5,000 RPM and caused major detonation on my first engine. I only checked it to 4500 with a timing light and a degreed damper. I since brazed up the slots on the distributor shaft to limit advance and put some weak springs in to check full advance, then ground out the slots a little at a time until I have 34 degrees total, with initial timing at 18 degrees. Then I take 10 degrees out with the ignition box. I think 22-24 degrees total is safe, but be sure it is not over advancing at high RPM. I only run a 100 shot with my spare 270" engine with iron heads and the same cam you have. I use R43tsx plugs in that engine with the gap closed to .035. I run 125-150 with my roller cam 274" GN1 head engine with cold side gap Autolite race plugs and race gas from my rear tank with a return type fuel system with a separate pump for the nitrous. The problem with nitrous is, if some is good, than more must be better. It is addictive. I think the initial hit is what is hardest on the engine. You may need a bottle heater for cool weather. Pressure needs to be 950 PSI. On a hot day it can go much higher, so just bleed some nitrous at the bottle to lower the pressure. Always test your fuel solenoid by revving the engine a little and tapping the activation switch with the bottle off. The engine should blubber if the solenoid is working. If you use a separate tank and pump, it needs to be a return system so there is never any air in the fuel line to the solenoid. You can use a button or a wide open throttle switch to activate the spray. I like the throttle switch. I have used both. Have fun!

 

[eastwoodad]

A few more timing tweaks, down to 15.10 at 89mph in 80 degree weather. Life is crazy with my 4 kiddos 7yrs and under so my dad has been having fun tweaking it in my absence. I would like to get it in the 14's N/A and still nearly full weight. We might accomplish this simply with cooler weather.

 

[TURBOELKY]

This thread is a real blast from the past! cool to see you still got it!!

 

[WE2Regal]

Great post. I know of 2 different 84 Regals running in NHRA Stock Eliminator with NA 4.1's that run low 13 second ET's. Don't have any idea how they can do that in Stock Eliminator trim that doesn't allow many mods. But they leave the line hard enough to occasionally pull the left front wheel a few inches off the ground (no trans brake) and spin the hell out of those engines!

 

[WE2Regal]

 

[WE2Regal]

This 84 GN has an NA 4.1!!

 

[eastwoodad]

This 84 GN has an NA 4.1!!

View attachment 266598

I have always been fascinated by NA V6's in NHRA stock. I would love to know more about those two cars you posted. I would guess since they are 4.1's they at least run a 4 barrel Q-jet. Probably a well engineered cheater cam, loose tolerances, compression, custom headers, a lot of gear and converter in a TH200 3 speed.

 

[WE2Regal]

I have always been fascinated by NA V6's in NHRA stock. I would love to know more about those two cars you posted. I would guess since they are 4.1's they at least run a 4 barrel Q-jet. Probably a well engineered cheater cam, loose tolerances, compression, custom headers, a lot of gear and converter in a TH200 3 speed.

All that and more. Trick valve jobs, acid porting, light weight manual steering boxes and brakes, manual shift reverse pattern valve bodies, etc. The TH200 is a popular choice for Stock Eliminator cars because of it's light weight and gear ratios. Stock Eliminator folks are ultra secretive about their combos. Some have a lot of time and expense developing small gains in ET and they have no intention of sharing that info. I would love to know the gear ratio and torque converter stall speeds of those cars that allow them to leave so hard on 30x9 slicks. Have to have at least a 4.56 gear to do that. Needless to say, these cars are not streetable.

Neil Smedley's old U/SA 78' Turbo Regal (actually a 79' but raced as a 78' because of more lenient NHRA factoring for the 78' engine) is currently for sale on Racingjunk.com. It is now painted light blue. Huge potential in that car for someone and fairly priced at $8,500. Here's a pic of a similar V/SA 78' Turbo Regal.

 

[WE2Regal]

By the way, the 84 GN pictured above is THE Grand National pilot car for 1984. In fact it is probably the first of the "black" generation of Grand Nationals. That was the car used by Buick in auto shows around the country. It was supposed to be crushed but ended up becoming one of the few cars given to racers for use in Stock Eliminator by Buick Motorsports. (I think Ken Dutweiller and Dick Baker also were given cars by the Buick Motorsports program. Bill Chapin owns the Dutweiller car now and Dick Baker's son has his car.) That 84 GN has probably set more NHRA and IHRA records than any other Buick Regal I know of. It ran a 231 CI 2 barrel "Dual Jet" carb engine for a long time that set many records and had several class wins. I'm sure it helped to have the Buick Motorsports program behind you back then.