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My concern with these alternate additives (STP, Valvoline, etc), is they're also intended to increase viscosity, eg a 5W30 oil might behave like 10W40 ... although I don't really know the actual increase.

Valvoline Synpower data sheet reads:
Unlike other oil treatments, Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment doesn't just increase your oil's viscosity...
Implying that Synpower also increases visocity, but supposedly has additional benefits, too.
I also note Valvoline Synpower has "only" 0.27 wt% Zinc, so it only provides a negligible increase of Zinc when added to 5 qts of oil.

STP Red ad copy reads:
STP 4 Cylinder Oil Treatment fights motor oil breakdown, adds viscosity, increases anti-wear protection, and adds anti-oxidant to resist oil deterioration. ..

OTOH, GM EOS does not claim to "increase viscosity" :
formulated as an engine assembly lubricant. EOS provides outstanding protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing as well as run-in camshaft lobe and lifter scuffing resulting from insufficient lubrication. .
 
GM # 12345501 (Camshaft and Lifter Pre-lube) might be an alternative to # 1052367 (EOS) ...


Camshaft /Lifter Pre-lube description :
GM cam and lifter pre-lube contains a specially formulated anti-wear agent dispensed in a high quality oil to prevent scuffing and/or premature wear during start-up and initial break-in of a new camshaft.

EOS and Camshaft Pre-lube have similar chemical analyses:

Analysis of Camshaft and Lifter Pre-lube
Bob Is The Oil Guy: GM Camshaft & Lifter Prelube
- 5900 ppm Zinc
- 5700 ppm Phosphorus
- 28000 ppm Calcium (???)
- SUS viscosity @ 210ºF: 107 (noticeably thinner than EOS).

Analysis of EOS
Bob Is The Oil Guy: E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant
- 6200 ppm Zinc
- 5700 ppm Phosphorus
- 5500 ppm Calcium
- SUS viscosity @ 210ºF: 175


Relative costs:
EOS, 16 oz, list $8.85.
Camshaft and Lifter Pre-lube, 4 oz, list $9.65.
The latter is over 4 times more expensive!

1 Ounce of either Additive, per Quart of engine oil, should increases Zinc content by about 380 ppm (or nearly 0.04 wt%). So a typical modern SM/GF4 oil's zinc would increase from about 0.09% to 0.13%.
 
This is really starting to suck. I guess we now know what the next "collector item" in the turbo Buick world will be. I guess now I will be going to Valvoline "not legal for street use" racing oil. I had planned on buying a case of GM EOS and using it in each oil change along with Mobil 1 to see how I like it. No sense in liking it now.
 
So someone who lives in an emission testing state will have to answer for me but has anyone tried running through a smog test with Non-street legal oil in the crankcase. Did it show on the sniffer.
 
.. I guess now I will be going to Valvoline "not legal for street use" racing oil....
Gary,
I have read that the Valvoline "Not Street Legal Racing Oil" lacks the detergents and other additives necessary to minimize sludge and deposit buildups on a street driven car ... but I can't find the reference now.


By way of comparison, note that Redline Oil Co specifically states on their website:
To reduce the chance of detonation, our race oils contain very few detergents and are not recommended for street use.
So, there is risk in using some of these "racing" oils on the street.

If Valvoline has a knowledegeable tech support line, they may be able to answer "why" the NSL oils are not recommended for street use. If it's because the detergent content is low, I'd think hard before using it for street use.
 
Tom:
I did not notice your response until this morning. Years back I used Valvoline Racing Oil before there was a legal and a non-street legal version. I had no problems but was told that all racing oils in general do not have the same amount of detergent that standard oils do. I am of the opinion that the Valvoline "Non-Street Legal" version of their racing oil is not legal because of the amount of zdpp, or zinc, plus other anti-scuff agents. I just bought 3 bottles of GM EOS and i am going to try that with Mobil 1 10W-30 for right nowm, but I do think that I will go to the valvoline illegal racing oil in time. In time, we are going to be using Singer Sewing machine oil if we don't watch it.
GM EOS is history, too verified it with several dealers Friday.
 
... but I do think that I will go to the valvoline illegal racing oil in time. ...
The other popular alternative, of course, is "diesel" oils, but IMHO the commonly available diesel oils are too viscous -- hard to find anything but 15W40.

I'd rather be running a 0W30, 5W30, or 10W30 in my street cars, to ensure rapid lubrication during cold startup.

Shell Rotella T and Chevron Delo 400 are supposed to be available in 10W30, but I've never found it anywhere locally, including a couple of big-rig truck stores I've checked.

Chevron also makes a Chevron Delo 400 Synthetic 0W30 that appears very good on spec sheet, but again I've not been able to find it locally.

In time, the diesel oils may also go to low Zinc formula.
 
The other popular alternative, of course, is "diesel" oils, but IMHO the commonly available diesel oils are too viscous -- hard to find anything but 15W40.

I'd rather be running a 0W30, 5W30, or 10W30 in my street cars, to ensure rapid lubrication during cold startup.

Shell Rotella T and Chevron Delo 400 are supposed to be available in 10W30, but I've never found it anywhere locally, including a couple of big-rig truck stores I've checked.

Chevron also makes a Chevron Delo 400 Synthetic 0W30 that appears very good on spec sheet, but again I've not been able to find it locally.

In time, the diesel oils may also go to low Zinc formula.

All the automotive places ahve 10w-30 Rotella in the back. I have yet to find it out in the store but Napa, Advanced Auto, and Oreillys all had it in the back. Heck even my local Walmart had it.

Jason
 
I stumbled accross a new Mobil 1 product which is 15W50 for high performance vehicles. Sounds like a good viscosity combination so I'm giving it a try. Always used 10w30 before but I race with two local clubs and the GN goes to the track a lot.
 
The other popular alternative, of course, is "diesel" oils, but IMHO the commonly available diesel oils are too viscous -- hard to find anything but 15W40.

I'd rather be running a 0W30, 5W30, or 10W30 in my street cars, to ensure rapid lubrication during cold startup.

Shell Rotella T and Chevron Delo 400 are supposed to be available in 10W30, but I've never found it anywhere locally, including a couple of big-rig truck stores I've checked.

Chevron also makes a Chevron Delo 400 Synthetic 0W30 that appears very good on spec sheet, but again I've not been able to find it locally.

In time, the diesel oils may also go to low Zinc formula.

They already are
 
Rotella 10w-30 with a bottle of the Red STP oil additive. I change it often so heat is a non issue. I would definately run the stock weight of 10w-30...lighter can cause less oil pressure.

Jason

I have a completely stock engine in my 87 Gn and i have always used 10W-40.
Should I change to 10W30? I dont use the car that much- only on nice Sundays.

Thanks
Frank
 
Been using Mobil 1, 15W50 for many years. Bought my WH1 in the fall of '88, switched to Mobil 1 10W40. Ran that for years. Daily driver hit 140k around 1993. Switched to the heavier 15W50 and now have 192k. Runs like a champ. In the early days, would swap filters and add a qt every 2k. Changed oil, filtered the used M1, ran it for 10k in old truck. It had 230k+ when I sold it. The old formula Mobil 1 was great. Not sure what direction I'm going next...
 
I have a completely stock engine in my 87 Gn and i have always used 10W-40.
Should I change to 10W30? I dont use the car that much- only on nice Sundays.

Thanks
Frank

I would...The higher weight oil is a bandaid for an oil pressure problem. Does it fix it? Absolutely not.

Most of the guys on here are not GM engineers and I would say I trust an engineer versus a guy swearing something works...If not, then why would GM even recommend an oil? Think about it....

My opinion,

Jason
 
sometimes just old age and wear constitutes usage. engineers originally said 7500miles (12000km). none of us follow that rule...I'm sure I have more than .0015-.002 clearances on my mains/rods.
 
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