Painters please step inside.
- Thread starter TT/Ameasap
- Start date
JP87GN;
It was me that said I striped the hood. I watch a clock because thats how I charge. By the hour.
turbot2496;
You are correct in saying that it is best to leave tha factory primer if possable and if not damanged. That is one of the reasions that I like Plastic Meadia Blasting. If the person doing the blasting watches what he is doing he can do just that.
It was me that said I striped the hood. I watch a clock because thats how I charge. By the hour.
turbot2496;
You are correct in saying that it is best to leave tha factory primer if possable and if not damanged. That is one of the reasions that I like Plastic Meadia Blasting. If the person doing the blasting watches what he is doing he can do just that.
The seacrit to striping with a D/A is to lock it so it works like a mini grinder. Make shure to grind AWAY from the edges NOT into them. Keep it moveing, don't let it set in one area to long. The same way as if you where running a buffer. This will keep the edges from being gouged or heating up the metal. Start with new paper and change it when it gets dull. I had more then one layer of paint by the way.
tim sewald
Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2004
I'm having my 84 t-type soda blasted. Should have it back on 11/22. This guy uses glass bead for rust and plastic or soda for paint and bondo removal. $750.00 to take the whole car to metal including the door jams.
just a throught
1st I'am no expert but have done a whole lot of research not to mention most of my friends are body shop guy or street rod builders meaning they seem to know what they are doing.
I'am currently restoring my 83 ttype the car has been stripped to metal frame sand blasted and etch primed then seal with urathane primer covered with urathane black gloss. under carriage blasted and coated again as above. body was stripped to bare metal with aircraft stripper it easy spray on removed hood cover with plastic sheeting let stand in warm room or warm day outside for 45min. Remove plastic sheet this will peel old paint in big chucks almost all will be pulled off respay any areas not stripped let stand 30 min. then take rag with soaked in laq thinner and even pour it direct on hood wipe with rags it will clean hood in 2 hour most of it watching tv. or wet sanding the top block sand wet (sponge and water) with 400 grit sand to body lines of top more where fading not occurring use you finger to feel paint lines and contours feathering from center out if you don't pierce paint your can clear over top paint and bring it back . Hood is different most likely the paint is cracked from the heat . heres the deal when the paint is cracked it puts micro stress cracks in the metal so if the metal is'nt preped the creack will show back up in a short period of time through the new paint
Aircraft stripper will cost about $6.00 a can (Spray) 2 can will do hood
400 grit $1.10 per sheet 4 sheets
paint / primers depend if 1 stage or 2 stage $100.00
The botom line ! I just redid my pathfiner 2 stage mist white with white pearl with clear coat in 2 days $80 start buffing tomorrow my regal is next charcoal poly gray and black
Hope this will take away some of the
1st I'am no expert but have done a whole lot of research not to mention most of my friends are body shop guy or street rod builders meaning they seem to know what they are doing.
I'am currently restoring my 83 ttype the car has been stripped to metal frame sand blasted and etch primed then seal with urathane primer covered with urathane black gloss. under carriage blasted and coated again as above. body was stripped to bare metal with aircraft stripper it easy spray on removed hood cover with plastic sheeting let stand in warm room or warm day outside for 45min. Remove plastic sheet this will peel old paint in big chucks almost all will be pulled off respay any areas not stripped let stand 30 min. then take rag with soaked in laq thinner and even pour it direct on hood wipe with rags it will clean hood in 2 hour most of it watching tv. or wet sanding the top block sand wet (sponge and water) with 400 grit sand to body lines of top more where fading not occurring use you finger to feel paint lines and contours feathering from center out if you don't pierce paint your can clear over top paint and bring it back . Hood is different most likely the paint is cracked from the heat . heres the deal when the paint is cracked it puts micro stress cracks in the metal so if the metal is'nt preped the creack will show back up in a short period of time through the new paint
Aircraft stripper will cost about $6.00 a can (Spray) 2 can will do hood
400 grit $1.10 per sheet 4 sheets
paint / primers depend if 1 stage or 2 stage $100.00
The botom line ! I just redid my pathfiner 2 stage mist white with white pearl with clear coat in 2 days $80 start buffing tomorrow my regal is next charcoal poly gray and black
Hope this will take away some of the
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Originally posted by turbot2496
Red .... Red... please just stop....
Plastic media blasting is awesome.... If you can afford it and need it - do it. I've never heard of anyone who is competent in media blasting warping anything. You can plastic media blast an aluminum can and not warp it .... so please just quit spreading false info. Also, it doesn't take all day to DA a frickin hood. Just quit. You are usually quite knowlegable, but you are so obviously wrong in this instance we have to point it out. No offense.
Also I believe the car we were talking about was a TTA and not a GN if I'm not mistaken. The TTA doesn't have a laquer finish so if the primer coat is undamaged(?) it should be fine not to strip it to bare metal. It is commonly taught to not strip a factory primer coat unless its damaged ,which on a 89 model year car with paint peeling, may very well be the case. The thread starter should be able to easily determine this. If you do decide to strip, DropTop is right on. Media blasting by a pro if available, is the best bet.
Not trying to ruffle feathers .... just trying to eliminate some confusion for the original poster.
As far as media stripping, about 15 years ago I sent out two unreplaceable hoods that came back warped. I won't make that mistake again. My information is from personal experience. Fool me once, it's your fault.......fool me twice, it's my fault. That's the chance you take. As far as stripping and painting a hood, which is what this thread was about, unless you're unwilling to do the job yourself, you'd be foolish to send it out to have it media blasted.
The advice given here is to guys who want to take care of their favorite toy. Many want to do their own work and do a great job. This isn't about production work on some Hyundai.
As far as sanding and leaving the factory primer, how can you sand with 80 grit, using it like a grinder, and not leave 80 grit scratches in that factory primer. No matter how much urethane primer and paint you apply over those scratches and block off, as the paint cures, the finished paint will shrink into those scratches and show on your new paintwork. Therefore, why would you leave any paint on the aformentioned hood? It won't matter on the Hyundai, but how about your GN or TTA. If you want to guarantee no adverse reaction with your new paint, you start with bare metal.
I have worked in bodyshops. Not that much. My opinion of bodyshops is that you can learn all sorts of half ass procedures. I've personally corrected many rediculously poor paint and body mistakes. I wouldn't want to be measured by how many shops I worked in. That's why there are so many horror stories related to paint jobs.
Don't forget, the guys asking questions here have very little knowledge of auto painting. I'm not going to give them bad information. I only want to help. While some claim they can strip a hood in 30 minutes with a sander, it only makes it more difficult and confusing for the amateur after he realizes he's been sanding for three hours and it's still not done. On the other hand, anybody can strip a hood or any other part of the car correctly, to the bare metal, with chemical stripper.
Red; I'm sorry for your bad experance with media blasting. My questions to you is; What kind of media did you use? What type of questions did you ask the people doing the job for you? Did you do your homework before you left your hard to replace pieces to see if they would be alright? You should always check the reputaition of the shop you are doing bussness with. Look at someone elses finished piece first.
ALL of my information is from years of personal experance (over 30 years in all) and profesional training by highly quallified people that have been in the bussness long before me. I too want what is best for the hobbie and the owner of the car that is being worked on. So you see, you and I are not that much differant.
As to your coments about the 80 grit scratches on the hood. All I have ever done is quality restorations. I have never worked in a production shop. I have been doing this for well over 10 years profesionally (Before that it was a hobbie). I don't work on daily drivers. My cars have won many best paint awards at many major shows. I have been invited to more then one national event. You don't get to this point if you don't know what your doing. I use only high quality materails to do my work. If you use good high quality materials and use them in the correct mannor. You will not have any 80 grit scratches come back on you. If I had problems with little things like 80 grit scratches comeing back to haunt me I would change the way I do things. Thats why I sugjested using Plastic Media, Soda or Walnut Shells. If you have it available to you in your area.
I never said that I could strip the hood to the factory primer with a D/A and 80 grit. You can't do it with stripper eather. The best way to achive this is with the afore mentioned media blasting. These medias will leave the part looking like it has never ever had any paint on it. If you dont have it in your area and you don't want to use a D/A in a mannor in witch it takes to remove paint easy (theres alwasy 3Ms strip and clean disks). Then the method of using stripper is probley your next best step. Your still going to have to sand it afterwords anyway. I just don't like the Idea of the stripper getting in those hard to reach areas and not being able to get it back out. Not to mention the highly toxic cheimacles that will burn everything it touches including eyes, hands and skin. Then theres the run off that sokes down into the ground water. To each his own thats what this country is all about.
I wish to you and everybody else the best of luck, including the origanl poster. Remember; "There is more then one way to skin a rabbit." So do it in the way that suits you.
ALL of my information is from years of personal experance (over 30 years in all) and profesional training by highly quallified people that have been in the bussness long before me. I too want what is best for the hobbie and the owner of the car that is being worked on. So you see, you and I are not that much differant.
As to your coments about the 80 grit scratches on the hood. All I have ever done is quality restorations. I have never worked in a production shop. I have been doing this for well over 10 years profesionally (Before that it was a hobbie). I don't work on daily drivers. My cars have won many best paint awards at many major shows. I have been invited to more then one national event. You don't get to this point if you don't know what your doing. I use only high quality materails to do my work. If you use good high quality materials and use them in the correct mannor. You will not have any 80 grit scratches come back on you. If I had problems with little things like 80 grit scratches comeing back to haunt me I would change the way I do things. Thats why I sugjested using Plastic Media, Soda or Walnut Shells. If you have it available to you in your area.
I never said that I could strip the hood to the factory primer with a D/A and 80 grit. You can't do it with stripper eather. The best way to achive this is with the afore mentioned media blasting. These medias will leave the part looking like it has never ever had any paint on it. If you dont have it in your area and you don't want to use a D/A in a mannor in witch it takes to remove paint easy (theres alwasy 3Ms strip and clean disks). Then the method of using stripper is probley your next best step. Your still going to have to sand it afterwords anyway. I just don't like the Idea of the stripper getting in those hard to reach areas and not being able to get it back out. Not to mention the highly toxic cheimacles that will burn everything it touches including eyes, hands and skin. Then theres the run off that sokes down into the ground water. To each his own thats what this country is all about.
I wish to you and everybody else the best of luck, including the origanl poster. Remember; "There is more then one way to skin a rabbit." So do it in the way that suits you.
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
I may just thow my hood in the back of my truck and take it to John personally.... I saw his work a few weeks ago and I was surprised at how well his GN looks.... Flawless! Not siding with anyone cause I have no experience, but it did look beautifull.
Oh, thanks for the reply's people... I really appreceated the knowlege you guys offered.
Thanks
Bo
Oh, thanks for the reply's people... I really appreceated the knowlege you guys offered.
Thanks
Bo
