Question about aluminum heads

[Nick Micale]

I have these valve covers. Will these work on the T/A heads? And why won't I bee able to get the passenger side valve cover off in the car? I have HR mounts as well.

The TA low profile valve covers as shown should be easy to remove on the pass side with TA heads especially if the factory heat shield is not in place.

The lower back bolt on the pass VC can be a pain so I use a small ratchet wrench with an short allen-headed socket permanently attached for easy access.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Good deal!

I have the program down with the extention/swivel and allen head socket on the passenger side. Easy peazy after a couple times.

 

[earlbrown]

The head gaskets that came off the old motor were cometic .100

We decked the block .06 and shortened the head gasket .40 plus cleaning up the heads.

To sum it up I'm not sure what final comp ratio ended up being? With 46cc heads I don't think were should have been too far off the mark (9.1)

When you say 'shortened the head gasket', did you remove a layer, or order thinner gaskets?


Here's how to compute your CR..
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccr.htm


and here's the one that really matters...

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

No just went from a .100 cometic to a .060 stock style gasket.

Thanks for the links. I'll be using them this go around.

 

[earlbrown]

You'll be happier with the stock style. They're so much easier to seal.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Here's my current stock style gasket

 

[MCH86GN]

You have actually answered your own question!

The greater heat dissipation of alum will help immensely in reducing detonation, and we almost always up the compression ratio in a performance build because of this factor.

One other consideration with alum heads, all of the 3 brands of 8 bolt heads are more resistant to "lifting" or deformation a lot more than the iron heads. The M&A and TA heads are significantly stronger/stiffer than iron heads.

The TA alum heads are derived from the M&Aa head, but were re-designed to add even more strength, especially in the combustion chamber area.

This is good information. If I do a build, short block, in the spring and if I have the money, I was considering getting GN1 heads. My concern was durability of the aluminum heads. With regard to the valve seats, it seems like aluminum would wear faster than iron. This could be inexperience talking.

I have a spare 109, so my current short block I am planning on pulling and selling, my builder will probably buy it. Maybe I'll sell the champion irons too, with it to help offset the cost.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

This is good information. If I do a build, short block, in the spring and if I have the money, I was considering getting GN1 heads. My concern was durability of the aluminum heads. With regard to the valve seats, it seems like aluminum would wear faster than iron. This could be inexperience talking.

I have a spare 109, so my current short block I am planning on pulling and selling, my builder will probably buy it. Maybe I'll sell the champion irons too, with it to help offset the cost.

Aluminum heads have been used in production cars for a long time. My 2001 Corvette has an alum block an heads, my 09 suburban has aluminum heads and 125k miles. The only wear is if you over tighten the spark plugs.

 

[MCH86GN]

Aluminum heads have been used in production cars for a long time. My 2001 Corvette has an alum block an heads, my 09 suburban has aluminum heads and 125k miles. The only wear is if you over tighten the spark plugs.

Good point. The heads in my Ford Explorer are aluminum. I had them changed at the dealership at 50k miles, and 5 of 8 have blown out and I have had to put thread inserts into the head. Maybe that's why I'm thinking aluminum heads are inferior, my subconscious. Ford just put out an inferior product.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Aluminum heads get hardened inserts for the valve seats.

As for the spark plug threads, ONLY R&R the plugs when the heads are cold. Do it on a hot head and the threads will start stripping out. I also use the slightest hint of anti-seize on the plug threads.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[MCH86GN]

Aluminum heads get hardened inserts for the valve seats.

As for the spark plug threads, ONLY R&R the plugs when the heads are cold. Do it on a hot head and the threads will start stripping out. I also use the slightest hint of anti-seize on the plug threads.

RemoveBeforeFlight

I didn't realize they came with hardened inserts, I thought you wanted them you had to install them. This was from a youtube video I was watching and they were preparing a pair of heads for a stage 2 or TA performance block.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Good info!

My compression ended up being 9.4 ish based on my CC volume of 40.5. I used the calculator above that Earl supplied.

Not sure what affect the cylinder itself would have on detonation being's it's smaller now? I know thicker and thinner head gaskets can change the compression with a 46 CC chamber but what happens when you make the chamber smaller as well? Does that change the efficiency of the combustion?

One other topic has come up and that is my pistons are dark which means I was running too rich.

I have a WB and monitored it religiously and it never showed rich at idle or cruise. WOT went 10.0 until the top of 3rd to 10.2 to 10.5 with alky on 6. I thought I was safe there. Can't say how far under 10.0 I was early on in the pull but enlighten me on this topic? I did try another known working 02 sensor as well just to double check the one in the car. Same results.

 

[we4Mateo]

If the alky is spraying, the pistons should be cleaner too.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

I spent the last 200 miles with little to no boost trying to diagnose my coolant issue so that could be part of it. I know the alky was spraying based on A/F on the WB and PL data. Just no signs of a rich condition at idle or cruise. That's why I asked about chambers in my earlier post. Just trying to understand what other than too much compression is going on here so I can make the new set up better.

I figured someone in this thread would have spoke up about the pistons if there was something out of whack here.

 

[bison]

Good point. The heads in my Ford Explorer are aluminum. I had them changed at the dealership at 50k miles, and 5 of 8 have blown out and I have had to put thread inserts into the head. Maybe that's why I'm thinking aluminum heads are inferior, my subconscious. Ford just put out an inferior product.

Those Ford ones were an engineering f up. With the correct thread engagement there is no problem with aluminum threads.


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[bison]

Good info!

My compression ended up being 9.4 ish based on my CC volume of 40.5. I used the calculator above that Earl supplied.

Not sure what affect the cylinder itself would have on detonation being's it's smaller now? I know thicker and thinner head gaskets can change the compression with a 46 CC chamber but what happens when you make the chamber smaller as well? Does that change the efficiency of the combustion?

One other topic has come up and that is my pistons are dark which means I was running too rich.

I have a WB and monitored it religiously and it never showed rich at idle or cruise. WOT went 10.0 until the top of 3rd to 10.2 to 10.5 with alky on 6. I thought I was safe there. Can't say how far under 10.0 I was early on in the pull but enlighten me on this topic? I did try another known working 02 sensor as well just to double check the one in the car. Same results.

9.4:1 is a good CR for a high octane engine that you're looking to maximize power with. Especially when working the turbo. I wouldn't rec it to the 93/alky racer that doesn't have 100% handle on the timing


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[MCH86GN]

Those Ford ones were an engineering f up. With the correct thread engagement there is no problem with aluminum threads.


BPE2013@hotmail.com

Yes they were. The 2002 Ford Explorer was an engineering f up. From the engine to transmission to suspension. If I have the extra money next year, I'm certainly considering aluminum heads. Although I'm sure most will say it is foolish for me to buy aluminum considering my goals and the fact that I have a set of Champion Ported Irons.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

9.4:1 is a good CR for a high octane engine that you're looking to maximize power with. Especially when working the turbo. I wouldn't rec it to the 93/alky racer that doesn't have 100% handle on the timing


BPE2013@hotmail.com

I didn't realize I had that much compression so I didn't pull timing running the car at 18 boost. Had zero KR at first and then started to see it at tip in after a 1000 miles ish. The signs started to pop up and now I'm back on the engine stand.

 

[Phoneguy]

What spark plugs were you running ? What was your timing?
You need a non projected tip plug ...pre-ignition will damage your engine too.

Bryan

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

I forgot to get you that info.

NGK UR5 plugs gapped at 30 I believe?

Chip timing was 23/21

I was just on TA Performance website looking around since I'm going with their heads. Lot's of cool stuff over there.