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SignUp Now!Anywhere in the range of 4.2 - 4.8 at WOT is where you want to be.I thought 4.2v for tps at wot is too low.
Dont you need 4.4 or was it 4.6v?
I don't know how a controller is going to fix boost creep unless the prior controller was faulty? Usually boost creep is due to inadequate cross section of the bypass that results in increased drive pressure and run away. Are your injectors new? What are you logging with?Picked up a boost controller from RJC, that should help eliminate the boost creep.
Going to look into the fuel problem but need to monitor the fp closely, right bow i do not have any kind of fuel pressure gauge. Dont really wanna put an electric fp guage in the car as i feel they are not accurate. Below are the options i am looking into on g body parts, which do you think i should go with (simple on rail or fp with a line so it can be visible when driving) and do i need the brass adapters?
http://www.gbodyparts.com/advanced_...Csid=f6309f4361952f94edea8d013418e72f&x=0&y=0
Or recommend you own setup but send me links please. I would like to have the option of storing the gauge on a fuel line in the engine compartment but also being able to tape it onto the windshield when i want to see fp at WOT during testing. Let me know what you recommend.
Currently i do not have a boost controller. I have an adjustable wastegate actuator that is causing the boost creep. I am putting in the boost controller to eliminate the boost creep. I have also been told that if that doesnt work i may have to port the puck hole on the turbo. But ill try anything to avoid having the turbo taken off and machined.I don't know how a controller is going to fix boost creep unless the prior controller was faulty? Usually boost creep is due to inadequate cross section of the bypass that results in increased drive pressure and run away. Are your injectors new? What are you logging with?
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Yeah i know, just going through process of elimination boost first (to stay safe when testing), then fuel, then voltage.You have to look at the voltage issue regardless...
That is great! Help a ton. Thanks Sam!After you get your fuel pressure gauge , you can test your pump and regulator without driving . Hook up the FP gauge , put a regulated air supply to the vac/pressure port on the regulator . This is to supply simulated "boost pressure" to the regulator so you want to go from 0 - 30 psi max. This way you can see what your fuel pressure is at any given "boost" pressure . Put 12v power to the grey single wire connector that is located behind the alternator and this will start the fuel pump . Start at 0 and check for the 1 for 1 rise in boost to fuel pressure up to and over your max boost you're planning on running ( @ 20psi air pressure should = about 62 psi fuel pressure ) . It's possible your pump is falling off once you hit 60 psi and won't go much higher . This is much safer than trying to watch gauges at WOT and you won't hurt the motor . Hope this helps . Sam
Oxy mv was 078 and knock was 2.8*. I dont know what that 078 is about.
Didnt fix the volts yet, im assuming thats the root of the problem. And yes that is line off pressure.That was 43 with the line off? Straighten out the volts?
Yeah it dropped down right after the 2nd gear to 3rd gear shift. 750 in low 2nd, 734 in top of 2nd, down to 078 on the shift still 0 knock, and then the 2.8* of knock came in in the next scanmaster reading.Your O2s should not suddenly drop down to 078.