SD2/Powerlogger Pro general discussion

[TurboTdr3.8]

Param 11 (cold start) is for when the engine is already running, so you wouldn't adjust that.

You can try to adjust cranking fuel up or down to see what works bes

I thought param 11 was to set when you have a hard to start when cold , more would be like a bigger squirt of fuel like a acc pump on a carb but what you are saying now is to adjust the crank fuel up to help a cold engine to ignite , am I on the same page with you now Eric ? or Dave ? I have been have having hard to start when cold and I am on 93 not E85 ever since installing the sd2 on my modified TB , I moved the numbers up and it never seeded to help , I was thinking also the coolant temp was supposed to help that problem out also when cold to be richer mixture when cold .

 

[Eric Stage I]

Yes, the Cranking Fuel trim is what you want to adjust. Cranking fuel does get richer when colder.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Yes, the Cranking Fuel trim is what you want to adjust. Cranking fuel does get richer when colder.

Thanks Eric I will give it a try and see what happens , that explains what I was experiencing .

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Put 15 in crank fuel , has not cranked that good since the 5.7 chip, Thanks Eric

 

[BEATAV8]

Put 15 in crank fuel , has not cranked that good since the 5.7 chip, Thanks Eric

Me too. +15% and she is much better. I thought she was cranking rich but she was lean.

120lb injectors here.

 

[texasterror]

Ok, so here is a scenario. At idle, my car is at -10.2% AF correction (Its pulling out fuel to meet the target a/f). How would one go about getting close to 0%? Would I pull fuel out of parameter 5?

 

[huntsg]

There isn't a lot of information there. You could change the target AFR or lower the number in your VE table. If the target AFR is what you want then I would change the numbers in the VE table.

 

[texasterror]

Ok so I know how to get to the VE tables, what is the rule of thumb with regards how much should a person reduce (or increase) the VE value by (increments of 3, reduce the value by 5 or increase by 5 to move reduce the correction by 1, etc etc)? I just listed fake examples of a rule of thumb to explain my question. so I know how to identify the table, in order to get increase remove the -10.2% correction, do I reduce the VE table value by 10.2%?

 

[TurboDave]

Ok so I know how to get to the VE tables, what is the rule of thumb with regards how much should a person reduce (or increase) the VE value by (increments of 3, reduce the value by 5 or increase by 5 to move reduce the correction by 1, etc etc)? I just listed fake examples of a rule of thumb to explain my question. so I know how to identify the table, in order to get increase remove the -10.2% correction, do I reduce the VE table value by 10.2%?

Yes, to correct a -10% correction, try reducing the cells where that occurs by 10%, and so on. For example, if the cell value is 75, reduce it by 7.5

 

[missin' 2]

You can also try adjusting the numbers in cell 5, 6, 7 and 8 on the data tab in PLC for the load range that it occurs in. These are more of a course adjustment to get the correction under control the I fine tune with the individual tells in the very table like Dave said.

 

[TurboBob]

I find the tuning parameters (BLM cells) more convenient for quick tweaks. You can tune the car "pretty close" with them pretty easily. Then, you can go back and incorporate the settings into the VE table, and take the time to get it all fine-tuned.

Note, that I have found a slightly rich tune ( corrections a couple % negative) to be more driveable than a slightly lean tune (with positive corrections.)

Bob

 

[BEATAV8]

Ok, so here is a scenario. At idle, my car is at -10.2% AF correction (Its pulling out fuel to meet the target a/f). How would one go about getting close to 0%? Would I pull fuel out of parameter 5?

At low idle? Parameter 1. It should be highlighted yellow when the engine is running on it.

 

[texasterror]

At low idle? Parameter 1. It should be highlighted yellow when the engine is running on it.

Ok thanks, for some reason I though parameter 5 would also help out but I toyed with it a bit today and I have the idle correction between 0 and 3%, not bad. Also, if I don't complete step 5 which is the step below.
"The chip uses manifold air temperature for fuel corrections. You should move the factory air temp sensor to somewhere after the intercooler. You can mount it in the plenum or in the up-pipe. Try to mount it before any alcohol nozzle, so the alcohol doesn’t affect the reading (however it can still be tuned this way). "

How hampering is that to tunning the car, I just haven't had time to install it but I will this weekend. I cant seem to find a place that sells longer wiring so my sensor can reach the new area. I don't want to cut into the existing wiring, splice, and then enabling the bung to reach. I have enough of that under the dash (its ugly down there).

 

[TurboBob]

caspers sells the IAT extensions.

it doesn't affect the tuning too much. It depends on how "close to the edge" you want to tune.

Bob

 

[TurboDave]

You can see here where i mounted mine. An extension isn't needed to reach this point.

 

[TurboDave]

caspers sells the IAT extensions.

it doesn't affect the tuning too much. It depends on how "close to the edge" you want to tune.

Bob

I'd agree, in theory.....but here's my thoughts, and I'm far from an expert but... If one is running a stock location intercooler, the temperature differential from pre turbo to post intercooler probably isn't that large, or not as large as many would hope, and the impact on tuning may not be that great.
However, if one is running a high quality front mount, the temperature differential the probe may see from pre turbo to post intercooler is very substantial, huge in some cases, so the temp sensor reading may have more impact on tuning.

Or am I, well, you know.

 

[TurboDave]

I find the tuning parameters (BLM cells) more convenient for quick tweaks. You can tune the car "pretty close" with them pretty easily. Then, you can go back and incorporate the settings into the VE table, and take the time to get it all fine-tuned.

Note, that I have found a slightly rich tune ( corrections a couple % negative) to be more driveable than a slightly lean tune (with positive corrections.)

Bob

Another great suggestion for the beginning SD tuner! This is the way I learned to do it in both the Translator Pro and now the SD2. I adjusted cells 5-8 as a great way to tune a broader range, sorta like painting with a broad brush. Once I had those adjustments close I would run replay them and watch what VE cells were covered mostly by each of those BLM cells, and adjusted them accordingly. Now I have cells 5-8 back to 128, and the changes in the VE table. Tuning is nearly dead nuts on now.

 

[texasterror]

View attachment 250750

You can see here where i mounted mine. An extension isn't needed to reach this point.

Is this the same wire(s) that is connected to the MAF in stock cars?

 

[TurboDave]

Is this the same wire(s) that is connected to the MAF in stock cars?

Yes, just had to pull them out of the loom a bit.

 

[dank GN]

The 12v trigger that goes to the 2-step can be tapped into and also sent to D11 at the ECM, which will turn off closed loop correction.

We don't want closed loop correction on when the 2-step is activated, since the a/f will not be right.

You can control when closed loop is enabled using the PL parameter "Spool Mode Max MAP". Closed loop is enabled when that kpa setting is reached, or the spool mode time limit times out. The spool mode timer starts when you cross over 100kpa. The purpose for that timer is to enable closed loop after a set time, even if the MAP reading doesn't reach the Max MAP setting.

I just connected the 12vdc to the D11 ECM wire and it blew the fuse . What's up with that ? I'm having issue spooling at the line