Should I run synthetic or just plain old dinosaur oil?

[DR BOOST]

doesnt delo mean work?

 

[ronbuick]

Correct, 10-40 and higher weight and straight wt. oils do not have the starburst symbols, and no Delo does not mean work, keep trying.

Ron

 

[DR BOOST]

chevrons definition is DIESEL ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL

the word delo means work or labor

 

[ronbuick]

Correct.

Ron

 

[V6UnderPressure]

The 0w thing was throwing me off.. I was not aware there is a 0w. I kept thinking you were talking straight 30. When you said 0w-30 is thinner in cold than 10w-30, it threw me for a loop. After consulting with the Dr, I have a better understanding.

Please tell me you didn't take anything prescribed by the doctor.:biggrin:

 

[2QUIK6]

So all the reduced zinc/phos oils have the starburst symbol on them correct?

So is this a correct statement? I have some 10w-30 Castrol Syntech Blend and some 20w-50 Syntech Blend, the 10w-30 has the starburst, the 20w-50 does not. I figured the same brand just different viscosity would have basically the same additives as far as ani-wear additives were concerned??

But I plan to use ZDDPlus also so theoretically it should not matter which oil I use right?

 

[A2000RICH]

So is this a correct statement? I have some 10w-30 Castrol Syntech Blend and some 20w-50 Syntech Blend, the 10w-30 has the starburst, the 20w-50 does not. I figured the same brand just different viscosity would have basically the same additives as far as ani-wear additives were concerned??

But I plan to use ZDDPlus also so theoretically it should not matter which oil I use right?

i would not take that thought for granted-----look at the API rating/not the starburst-----is it SL or SM-----while that would not guarantee they are the same it would put them in the same ballpark it they were both SM or both SL------i would lighten up on the zddp with the SL- perhaps half a dose---------whole thing for the SM------cam wear tests are doubled with SM compared to SL----i plan to cover this later tonight in the other thread on ZDDP if i have time...........RC

 

[2QUIK6]

i would not take that thought for granted-----look at the API rating/not the starburst-----is it SL or SM-----while that would not guarantee they are the same it would put them in the same ballpark it they were both SM or both SL------i would lighten up on the zddp with the SL- perhaps half a dose---------whole thing for the SM------cam wear tests are doubled with SM compared to SL----i plan to cover this later tonight in the other thread on ZDDP if i have time...........RC

Thanks Rich. They are both SM rated. Therefore, what does the starburst symbol really mean?

 

[A2000RICH]

Thanks Rich. They are both SM rated. Therefore, what does the starburst symbol really mean?

the starburst means three things-----it means the oil meets the stated API grade ie SL SM etc-----AND it meets the stated ILSAC GF grade ie GF-4 etc---------AND it meets energy conserving requirements type I or II etc---------it doesn't guarantee it meets the needs of old cars------i will get to these subjects in the next few days in my continuing post under ZDDP............RC

 

[turbocaddy1982]

20w-50 is what i run in my daily driver....

 

[A2000RICH]

20w-50 is what i run in my daily driver....

that begs the question why since the manual clearly states the recommended viscosity is 10w-30

 

[Warp6]

Richard - what oil brand? weight? and how much ZDDP would you add for a roller cammed 231 if it were your engine? Thanks, Craig

 

[ronbuick]

I'm not Richard, but for a roller motor you should not need the zddp, weight,
10-30, or a 5-40, my choice would be Valvoline or Alisyn synthetics.

Ron

 

[A2000RICH]

Richard - what oil brand? weight? and how much ZDDP would you add for a roller cammed 231 if it were your engine? Thanks, Craig

its clear that roller cammed cars are much less dependent on zddp than flat tappet cars--------there are other less important things to consider like wrist pins and rockers where protection is important but pressurized lubrication is lacking--------in diesel engines the wrist pins are considered as vulnerable as the flat cams-------i am not sure why but it probably has to do with the lack of a throttle body and the full gulp of air they have to compress even at idle that works them hard all the time??????-------but i really cannot believe that any good API rated oil would not do a great job protecting a roller cam engine especially if you have roller rockers to augment your roller lifters------if you dont' have roller rockers it couldn't hurt to make sure you have at least .05% zddp(half the normal dose ie 1/2 bottle)------on the surface SM oil is supposed to be in that range but my recent tests of several brands (Mobil 1 10w-30 and Valvoline 10w-30 among them) have 00%-------there are reasons they don't have to adhere to this spec and i intend to cover that soon in a continuing thread elsewhere on this forum----as for oil brand???-----i have stated before that the answer to this question is really personal--------ask ten guys and you will get ten different answers and all of them will be fine-----if there was a brand out there that couldn't protect engines it would have disappeared years ago-------whats going to happen in the next several years with older cars is going to be interesting------because at the rate things are going few if any are going to continue to protect older cars-------lots of independent tests over the years have shown that there are no more than minor differences in quality brand name oils--------ever read the test on motor oil conducted by consumer reports a few years back?????--------even so i have my favorites---------in my CTSV i use Mobil 1 cause GM said so----------i also use that in my GNX's even though i really don't believe it makes a bit of difference------seems like the right thing to do for 100,000 dollar cars----------------i usually use valvoline dino in my GN's-------naturally i add ZPlus to all the TR's---------there was an interm period where i used rotella in my GNX's and GN's based on things i read in a couple mags--------sort of felt that there was no other good choice and it seemed reasonable-------that was before i really started studying what was going on and started spending money on testing--------when rotella changed early 07 I literally panicked and thats what led to ZPlus-------diesel oil is not a perfect choice-----it is better than the wrong gasoline engine oil ie SL/SM but my cars deserve perfect and perfect means the specified viscosity AND additives------ sometime next week i am going to cover the subject of diesel oil in great detail--------there is a reason they call it diesel oil---------i don't want to sound selfish but guys just don't understand that i did this project to protect my own cars that i seriously care about-------it wasn't till dennis kirban found out about it and asked to distribute it that it became a product--------i spent well into six figures to get exactly what i needed for my cars and if i never sell a dime of it its not gonna change my lifestyle one bit...........................RC

 

[jake744]

I used to run 10 30 conventional oil,just swapped to royal purple 10 30 synthetic and have noticed a few drops of oil from the rear main seal is this common when swapping to synthetic oil.

 

[scottk]

stock motor !10/30 dino