What do you guys do to help keep temps down in the summer? I have a 160 stat and wrapped downpipe (partially). I ordered a heat shield, also flushed rad multiple times and put in water wetter. Anything else I can do without buying an aluminum radiator? Just dont have the money for that kind of purchase right now. Or if any1 is willing to barter I have some parts, guns, etc to trade. Thanks!
Tempature issue
- Thread starter nash421
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C
coach
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Dual fans or bigger fan. Pretty cheap and usually have good results...even with a stock radiator
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The most simple, cheap and easy thing to do first is to remove your thermostat.
The second least expensive thing is to get the Waterwetter out of the system, and put in a $10 bottle of RMI-25.
It is 107 degrees in the shade at 2:00 PM here now, and temp will not peak for another 3 hours or so, and we have another 2 months to deal with this heat, and these are the first 2 things we do for dealing with our summer temps.
The second least expensive thing is to get the Waterwetter out of the system, and put in a $10 bottle of RMI-25.
It is 107 degrees in the shade at 2:00 PM here now, and temp will not peak for another 3 hours or so, and we have another 2 months to deal with this heat, and these are the first 2 things we do for dealing with our summer temps.
turbo96max
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Wow good info here. So remove stat. Water w rmi 25. Im in Fl would this still apply ? Usuallythe car rolls about 180s but if I floor it once for a good pull it wont come back down deom 220s.
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salvageV6
Daily Driver
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- May 25, 2001
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Hi speed fan switch or jumper the fan to run on high when low speed is commanded by chip.
High speed won't come on unless commanded by high A/C pressure switch or over 220 degree temps.
Verity high speed relay is working too.
High speed won't come on unless commanded by high A/C pressure switch or over 220 degree temps.
Verity high speed relay is working too.
Could a radiator shop clean it out? Then he could keep his oil/tranny coolers. I would think GM tested these things back in 1986/87 with no issues, from Fla. to Alaska. I remember reading about GM engineers driving GNX's around the USA to make sure they were up to par.
Doubt it. A radiator shop wouldn't touch mine back in '98 saying it was too old and they were scared about the soldier joints. Back then it was 11 years old not 27 years old. I nursed mine for years after that trying every kind of flush I could get my hands on and RMI25 too. The only fix was a new radiator.
for what they would charge to try to clean it and fail you could almost buy 1/2 of an Fbody radiator and be done with it.
for what they would charge to try to clean it and fail you could almost buy 1/2 of an Fbody radiator and be done with it.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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I turn the A/C off at 225 degrees, car goes off at 240. 
That's my rule.
You have to make sure the high speed fan works properly and trigger it early enough or always with the jumper wire mod.
That's my rule.
You have to make sure the high speed fan works properly and trigger it early enough or always with the jumper wire mod.
You really need a re core not a clean out.
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
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You could ask a radiator shop how much it would cost to have it boil, brushed, and re-soldier the top section, and painted. If it's too pricy then replacement is needed.
A new core for your radiator is gna be way expensive. I just went through this on my gn cause my rad started leaking from corrosion and he quoted me 900+ for a new core... Said it's made from copper which prices of have gone wayyyy up... I now run an advance auto aluminum radiator with external trans and external oil cooler best setup as all temps overall are cooler... Just my $.02 only bad thing about it I the radiator is not as wide as the original so I couldn't put my upper rad support back on... Maybe the fbody rad is wider idk I haven't compared it to my camaros maybe someone on here already knows but like they all said aluminum radiator is cheap and will work much better.
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