Thinking about this Low Budget Turbo, Injector and torque converter combo.

[scojack_2001]

i have that one.

I just put one on my GN. With the TE-61 and standard actuator, I was seeing 17psi max. I put the RJC unit on and now Im getting 22psi! Feels great with the 3200-3400 stall.

I think a 2800-3000 stall will work great with a TE-60. Have that setup on my boss's GN. Runs good.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

The combo is complete for now
TE-6031
Duck neck.
42#rs
Alky
Valve springs
Stock D5
What are the average ¼ mile #s for this combo?

 

[Blazer406]

The combo is complete for now
TE-6031
Duck neck.
42#rs
Alky
Valve springs
Stock D5
What are the average ¼ mile #s for this combo?

Mid to upper 11's @ 120 on stock heads if the tuneup is there and the 60' can go sub 1.70 also...

Just a guess...

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Mid to upper 11's @ 120 on stock heads if the tuneup is there and the 60' can go sub 1.70 also...

Just a guess...

Sorry i forgot 1 BIG detail. its a peg leg car.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

Sorry i forgot 1 BIG detail. its a peg leg car.

Thats prolly why you have a 15 sec GN !!!! Your first upgrade should have been an EATON posi !

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Thats prolly why you have a 15 sec GN !!!! Your first upgrade should have been an EATON posi !

LOL.

Im thinking 79.99 for the mini spool

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I recently got a Lock-right in the car and love it.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Found out today that my gears are 3.08
With a 28 inch tire in the future what gears if any Should I consider as a replacement if any.

 

[Pronto]

Let me guess, it was a 307 powerglide orginally.
Something in the 3.42 range always seems to work well with the TBs.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

250 Inline Six with the PowerGlide
3.42 is a big jump from 3.08
but i guess with a 28 inch tire the HWAY Driving would still be good.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

What should my next mod be?

Not going to add any engine mods for now.

What should my next mod be?

I am thinking about this stuff in this order what do you guys think?
1-Shocks - I have $17.00 no frills AutoZone stuff on it now
2-Rear Sway Bar - it doesn't have one now - looking at H+R Bar.
3-Tires - I need them real bad. But I have to first decide if I am going with 18s, 17s or I am staying with 16s. OR if I should just get some DRs for 15 inch wheels just for the track.
3-Torque converter - I have a stock HD D5 now. Been doing a lot of reading on TCs and I have no idea on what to go with and if I should even go with some thing else.
Thanks in advance for your help.
David

 

[Pronto]

Drag radials!
Leave the cheap shocks in the front. Get a good rear bar.
Try locking the converter too.

 

[JOELO'S T-TYPE]

I've been reading the WHOLE thread and just now I realized that you're not putting this on a TR. I'd get a posi unit rush (Im super happy with my Auburn) and 3.42 gears back there and begin enjoying life as it is. My car drives great on the freeway with that rear end and makes the tires scream at will during daily driving (well its not being driven these days but soon again it will).

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I've been reading the WHOLE thread and just now I realized that you're not putting this on a TR. I'd get a posi unit rush (Im super happy with my Auburn) and 3.42 gears back there and begin enjoying life as it is. My car drives great on the freeway with that rear end and makes the tires scream at will during daily driving (well its not being driven these days but soon again it will).

I already put in a posi (locker).
3.42s would be a big step up and they would work great.
But at this time I want to maximize what I have and solve the issues that I have. Once I get the car to hook I will make the next up-grade.
For now it will be bushings or control arms, rear sway bar and Drag radials

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Drag radials!
Leave the cheap shocks in the front. Get a good rear bar.
Try locking the converter too.

i don't do it because the converter is a stock D5 and i get A LOT of KR when i build boost on the locked converter.

 

[Pronto]

i don't do it because the converter is a stock D5 and i get A LOT of KR when i build boost on the locked converter.

I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean if you lock the converter in 2nd or higher while in boost you get knock? The converter won't lock in 1st.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean if you lock the converter in 2nd or higher while in boost you get knock? The converter won't lock in 1st.

if i lock the TC in 3rd or 4th and build more then 4-6 PSI i get a lot of KR.

 

[joe_schindler]

... Ive only built cars ranging from 12s down to the 7s.

These low ET guys- I’ve had cars that ran high 30’s. Some even finished lighter than they started.

Looks like you went with 42’s; but be careful with 60’s. 50 used to be the split between High and Low Impedance injectors. If you bought low impedance injectors; coming up with an ECM with the correct drivers could put a crimp in your budget.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Hey Dusty Bradford

the time is here.

Hey Dusty Bradford What do you have that would fit my combo and not kill the already small budget?

i am thinking about the 10" L/U thats listed on the PTC Site.
i would like to stay in the 2600-2800 stall range.
about the car
1-3800#
2-TE-6031 with the Stock GN Garret hot side
3-3" TH Style DP and dual 2.5 Exhaust
4-980 Valve springs
5-Alky
6-3.08 Rear Gears
Thanks
David

 

[charlief1]

I just read the whole thing David. I think I'm gonna be in trouble at Noble.:biggrin:

The biggest advantage to the 10" is loss of weight and a more effecient converter.

Go with a single 3" to the back. It's less restrictive than the duals and should fit fairly easily for the size car you have. Granted it's a slight difference in restriction but you can run dual mufflers to get rid of some of the drone from the engine this way.