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Not sure where i could get that fuel up here. No updates working OT no time for car right now.
 
Update car is driving, but overheating to 195F on a 60F day, seems I have an air lock I cant; get out. The same rad and fan setup was running 165 with non stage heads, any suggestions?
 
Jack up the front of the car as high as you can get it, start the car, and squeeze the hoses to try to "burp" the system.

Can you crack the system open at its highest point?
 
I can try that, I loosen the fitting on the water cooled turbo I can hear the air coming out. I have about 10 quarts in the system from fully drained, does that mean its full or not? Its a dual core 1" core aluminum rad. The t stat is a special one from Meziere rated at 170F maybe its stuck?
 
Remove the tstat and burp the system. Put the stat in a pan on the stove with a thermometer in it, and see when it opens.
 
If you pull the thermostat: Before you put it back in, pry it open and put two aspirin in it to hold it open. Install it like that. Then you can fill the cooling system 100% and the aspirin will dissolve pretty quickly.
 
i drill 2 1/8" holes in my t-stat before installing.
X2 - need to have some coolant flow through the T-stat to get the hot water from the bottom of the block to the T-stat so it can properly sense when to open.
AG


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When I get a chance I'll start messing with it. Seems the gremlins always come out close to dyno/track time preventing me from doing either ........:(
 
I think this more of an issue of over concerning one self with the engineering aspect of a "too the moon" style of build. Its easy to forget the small stuff. I do it all the time too.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
I think this more of an issue of over concerning one self with the engineering aspect of a "too the moon" style of build. Its easy to forget the small stuff. I do it all the time too.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app


Does this build fall in to the moon catergory?:) I picked the mildest cam I could find, everyone was saying its too small...and i have 11" vacuum only at idle at best@1000 rpm. I would like to thank everyone for the tech help on this build though.
 
Does this build fall in to the moon catergory?:) I picked the mildest cam I could find, everyone was saying its too small...and i have 11" vacuum only at idle at best@1000 rpm. I would like to thank everyone for the tech help on this build though.

Absolutly.

And i just love it. Its the inspiration to my own stage build and your arguments convinced me to run the stage heads on the street as well. I feel somewhat honored to get to participate in this thread and in the stage 2 section where the big kids play. This is like watching Robert Goddard work.... everybody thought he was nutz too............ everybody but the germans. ;)
 
Sorry I was totally wrong stage II heads have no place on the street on a 3.8 block anyway, unless your spinning 7000+rpm between 7/11's.....
 
Sorry I was totally wrong stage II heads have no place on the street on a 3.8 block anyway, unless your spinning 7000+rpm between 7/11's.....

good thing i have a 4.1 and Pic-Quicks instead of 7/11's to dash between.

i will be mechanically injected anyways... idling is for stop lights. So Have a Cigar and continue on with the Maddness. You have my support. (which is pratically useless. :D)
 
You are Mad! The 4.1 moves the operating range down about 500 rpm, but the theoretical airflow most efficient hp is still about 7500 rpm........at 4500 rpm I am moving enough fuel to put down about 250 hp@17 psi boost for example.
 
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