Tricks for front pump removal?

[my1stgn]

It's got the BR light purple paint on the valvebody, & it's the GN type servo. Can't tell about the governor.

I don't think the input shaft is stock.

The direct clutch drum needs to be resurfaced by sanding the band apply surface. Replace that band.

I can't tell if the pump front seal drainback has been drilled wider. And I can't tell you the pump condition without disassembly pictures.

You will need a billet servo, a billet shaft forward clutch drum (looks like you have a stock one there, but I may be wrong), deep pan, & modified pickup for running in the 10's, among other things.

WOW! You guys are good! Im looking at getting the Master Rebuild Kit in the link below from CK. The one for $449. What else should I get from them? I couldnt find anywhere to get a deep trans oil pan but I believe Don from DRW out here in San Diego has them available so I might try him. Anywhere else I should look? Thanks again fellas!

www.CKPerformance.com

 

[bison]

All those parts look like stock internals to me. The 4th clutches and steels are shot and only 2 clutches are there . That is not typical of a high performance build at all. The direct drum needs to be resurfaced. Inspect the integrity of the sealing surface on the inside of the direct drum where the iron rings seal. The number of vanes is not critical in the pump. The condition of the pump and the clearance in the pump are more important. I dont see at- brake there unless there is a Mallender type brake in the vb. No solenoids visible for a hydraulic brake in pics.

You need the following upgrades:

CK's book on the 200-4R

Input

4th carrier/ring gear

forward drum with billet shaft

output shaft if going 9.80's or faster

billet servo with more apply area (CK's is very nice)

Alto red clutches throughout

Alto wide band

4 clutches in 4th (requires thinner backing plate and machined apply piston)

one piece sealing rings on the forward shaft and input

rollerize the rear center support minimum and preferably the remaining locations that can be rollerized.

steel pump rings

drill out return hole in pump body

recalibration kit including boost valves

dual feed the directs

deeper pan/sump and or a baffle to keep the sump covered with oil

all clearances need to be adjusted (end play(s), pump clearance, clutch clearances, band clearance)

torque converter with a billet stator

trans-brake

 

[mikestertwo]

How can you tell it has a trans brake? Is it that bar that goes across the valve body?

If you look at the manual shift valve, it has an extra land on it near the end where the shift linkage attaches. I have installed those on a few transmissions. It's a manaul trans brake. It locks the trans when you put it in manual low.

 

[bison]

If you look at the manual shift valve, it has an extra land on it near the end where the shift linkage attaches. I have installed those on a few transmissions. It's a manaul trans brake. It locks the trans when you put it in manual low.

I cant see it because my monitor is too dark. There will be 2 check balls in the vb instead of 3 and a big hole in the seperator plate for the t-brake.

 

[Hacksaw]

Do what Bison says on his list.

WOW! You guys are good!

We aim to please. And, like the sign on the air transport urnal said, "We aim to please, please aim".

You doing this yourself?

 

[Hacksaw]

WOW! You guys are good!

Do what Bison says on his list.

We aim to please. And, like the sign on the air transport urnal said, "We aim to please, please aim".:biggrin:

You doing this yourself?

 

[Hacksaw]

Oops, double post.

 

[my1stgn]

So just to clear things up. It DOES have a trans brake? I was told by the seller that the previouse owner had put a Stage Right Trans brake in it. And everything in the trans looks stock? Thats sucks. Was $200 too much to pay for this used tranny? I will probly get most if not all my parts from CK Performance so I need to start a list of what I need from the post above. I will be building it myself and I already have the CK book, thats what Ive been using to take it apart. Thanks guys!

 

[A. G. Olphart]

Chop... Was $200 too much to pay for this used tranny? Chop...

You got a deal... the valve bodies go for more than that.

 

[mikestertwo]

So just to clear things up. It DOES have a trans brake? I was told by the seller that the previouse owner had put a Stage Right Trans brake in it. And everything in the trans looks stock? Thats sucks. Was $200 too much to pay for this used tranny? I will probly get most if not all my parts from CK Performance so I need to start a list of what I need from the post above. I will be building it myself and I already have the CK book, thats what Ive been using to take it apart. Thanks guys!

Yes, it does have a brake in it. All the mod consists of is a different manual valve, a plug to replace one of the valves, and drilling a hole in the spacer plate and removing a check ball. By the way, I think you got a decent deal on the trans.

 

[bison]

$200 for the trans was a gift. It was worth about $500-$600 the way it was.

 

[Hacksaw]

Dude, $200 for BR trans that was working is a deal. Some are paying $400 to $600 for one that wasn't trashed.

The cheapest I ever got one was $100, and that was a BIG gamble because the ID plate was missing, and I was going by just the servo cast number. Upon opening it up AFTER the sale it had the right valve body & governor.

And I have yet to match that deal again!

 

[my1stgn]

Okay so I dont feel bad for spending $200 for this trans. The guy told me the previous owner had a billet drum and a few other upgrades but I guess not. Oh well. And now to all my experienced builders, is it possible to put a lits together, say form CK or someone of the parts I need to install. Im gonna get everything Bison said but if someone could brake it down by p/n from the c/k website so I dont order double of something (for example if it comes in the master rebuild kit) or forget something. I know it sounds retarded but I get confused easy with all the parts names.....

And I want to apoligize for hi-jacking this thread, but I guess one thing led to another. Sorry!

 

[Rodney87GN]

Sorry to hijack this thread even more but I was the one that sold him that BRF trans. I never said it had a billet drum but the previous owner told me it has an Art Carr rebuild kit. Whatever that consists of, I'm not sure. I imagine it's just upgraded clutches and steels, etc. and some valve body mods. No hard parts were replaced to my knowledge. Maybe someone out there can elaborate more on what the AC rebuild kit has.

Trans worked fine in normal driving. WOT though, 2-3 shift would flair. After messing with the TV cable and changing the ATF with no luck I figured it would need a rebuild.

See Vic, I told you ya got a good deal on the trans!

 

[my1stgn]

Sorry to hijack this thread even more but I was the one that sold him that BRF trans. I never said it had a billet drum but the previous owner told me it has an Art Carr rebuild kit. Whatever that consists of, I'm not sure. I imagine it's just upgraded clutches and steels, etc. and some valve body mods. No hard parts were replaced to my knowledge. Maybe someone out there can elaborate more on what the AC rebuild kit has.

Trans worked fine in normal driving. WOT though, 2-3 shift would flair. After messing with the TV cable and changing the ATF with no luck I figured it would need a rebuild.

See Vic, I told you ya got a good deal on the trans!

Believe me Im not complaining. I must have misunderstood. But Im still happy. :biggrin: . So whats up with your engine? Whys it torn apart? Anyways Im glad I still got the trans of you cause I dont have to rush the rebuild and the GN is still drivable.....:biggrin:

 

[bison]

Sorry to hijack this thread even more but I was the one that sold him that BRF trans. I never said it had a billet drum but the previous owner told me it has an Art Carr rebuild kit. Whatever that consists of, I'm not sure. I imagine it's just upgraded clutches and steels, etc. and some valve body mods. No hard parts were replaced to my knowledge. Maybe someone out there can elaborate more on what the AC rebuild kit has.

Trans worked fine in normal driving. WOT though, 2-3 shift would flair. After messing with the TV cable and changing the ATF with no luck I figured it would need a rebuild.

See Vic, I told you ya got a good deal on the trans!

You gave him a great deal. I would have paid $400 myself if it was in front of me. Doesnt look like an AC since they use a 3 clutch OD setup and their forward drum is heat treated and usually black oxided. The guts looked 100% stock. Dual feeding will take care of the flare.

 

[my1stgn]

rollerize the rear center support minimum and preferably the remaining locations that can be rollerized.

Im confused. Are you talking about the ROLLERIZED REAR INTERNAL GEAR,
the ROLLERIZED LO REVERSE CLUTCH HOUSING, or the ROLLERIZED CENTER SUPPORT AND DRUM when you said "rear center support " I know you said to do all of them and I will, eventually but for now I just need a solid build that could last unitl I hit low 11's maybe high 10's then I will tear it aprat again, and rebuild with more upgrades. Thanks again fellas!

 

[Rodney87GN]

Believe me Im not complaining. I must have misunderstood. But Im still happy. :biggrin: . So whats up with your engine? Whys it torn apart? Anyways Im glad I still got the trans of you cause I dont have to rush the rebuild and the GN is still drivable.....:biggrin:

I had a faint knocking/ticking noise between 1000-2500 rpms for awhile that got progressively louder. When I tore it apart, the #1 rod bearing was really jacked and scored up the crank too. I think the crank is junk now. Also measured crank thrust endplay at .018"! When I pulled the cam out I found the #1 cam bearing severly worn. And to top it off I also found the #2 exhaust lobe was starting to go flat. The bright side of all this mess is I get to build up a bad ass motor now.:biggrin:

 

[bison]

Im confused. Are you talking about the ROLLERIZED REAR INTERNAL GEAR,
the ROLLERIZED LO REVERSE CLUTCH HOUSING, or the ROLLERIZED CENTER SUPPORT AND DRUM when you said "rear center support " I know you said to do all of them and I will, eventually but for now I just need a solid build that could last unitl I hit low 11's maybe high 10's then I will tear it aprat again, and rebuild with more upgrades. Thanks again fellas!

Id do all of them if it was me but the low reverse clutch housing (actually has the apply piston for low/reverse in it) is what i was referring to. It uses a big nylon washer.

 

[my1stgn]

Id do all of them if it was me but the low reverse clutch housing (actually has the apply piston for low/reverse in it) is what i was referring to. It uses a big nylon washer.

Sweet!. I will be ordeing that stuff soon here. Also one last question. Im looking at getting a new TC. Lock up with about a 3K stall. Im running a PT6176 DBB P-Trim turbo so is this stall speed correct? And which TC (brand) do you guys recommend? I would like it to be solid and perform like the sotck unit (ie Ive heard some poeple complain about noise from certain convertors.)
Also anything else for the trans since I will be using the trans brake? Thanks!