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What a shop is most likely to do ?

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What will a shop say If they built a faulty motor but ownership has transfered ?

  • Man that was all on the previous owner he must have been beating up on the car.

    Votes: 30 81.1%
  • Don't worry about it buddy we back all of our work

    Votes: 3 8.1%
  • Look you pay for new parts, I'll take care of the labor

    Votes: 4 10.8%

  • Total voters
    37
  • Poll closed .
The motor wasnt broken in & I know the guy was racing it @ the track & street racing....

IMO,
This should not make a bit of difference. The only thing that needs to be broke in is the cam and that is done before you even drive and olny if it's a flat tappet. Motor break in is a myth. It either works or it doesn't. The oil pump on the otherhand may have something wore out or some kind of blockage.

Just curious, what kind of gauge are you using? Mechanical or electric?

Also, what vascosity oil are you running?

Rick
 
IMO,
This should not make a bit of difference. The only thing that needs to be broke in is the cam and that is done before you even drive and olny if it's a flat tappet. Motor break in is a myth. It either works or it doesn't. The oil pump on the otherhand may have something wore out or some kind of blockage.

Just curious, what kind of gauge are you using? Mechanical or electric?

Also, what vascosity oil are you running?

Rick

+1
 
IMO,
This should not make a bit of difference. The only thing that needs to be broke in is the cam and that is done before you even drive and olny if it's a flat tappet. Motor break in is a myth. It either works or it doesn't. The oil pump on the otherhand may have something wore out or some kind of blockage.

Just curious, what kind of gauge are you using? Mechanical or electric?

Also, what vascosity oil are you running?

Rick

I was using a electric gauge & installed a mechanical for backup.. I ran
10-40w , 20-50 lucas race oil still no diff... as far as it not being broken in that is what I figured how could racing wear out the bearing on a new motor.. So what do you think about the $2000 price tag..

By the way the motor had all forged internals.. suppose to be a decent build per information givin by the builder
 
What was done to the motor at the shop? Was it a stock rebuild? Forged internals, balanced, compression ratio?
These engines will dip into the tens with a factory short block and a good tune with a cam and heads. The question is " for how long? "
I would go ahead and do the GN1 heads and a cam while it is apart and match-port your intake and headers to the heads but also take into consideration what has been done to the lower end as to how hard to push it.HTH

Bryan

The motor was done @ Hye-Tech performance.. it was .30 over ported polished heads & intake.. all forged internals, roller cam etc.
 
Put a stock used cover on it. Problem solved.

If it has a pte turbo saver, make sure the hoses are routed correctly. If you swap the hoses, you will over heat the oil.. actually make the oil filter bright red at night.

BW
 
the shop has the car now.. :frown: so should I say hold off on pulling the motor out ? tell them check the front cover 1st
 
BW knows these motors better than I do. I think I would have the shop replace the front cover first as it may fix it. I would not hold my breath though. Good luck, keep us posted.

Bryan
 
Everything he posted about the motor was confirmed by the receipt.. But all the suspension was BS....
 
ok I am goin to try and be nice.. hey its 5 AM :eek: You brought the car to the "shop" to have them fix it. Everyone here is adding their 2 cents. I do agree about lookin at the front cover BUT you brought it to THEM to FIX. Shop may not care for you telling them what they should do to fix it :eek: Hope its something easy to fix.
On the bright side it sure does have a lot of nice parts!!

"how could racing wear out the bearing on a new motor"
well beating the hell out of the car can do it.. He only had 38# inj in there.. Detonation can loosin up clearance's pretty fast (as in pounding the living crap out of them) :redface:

good luck :cool:
 
After reading that link I was surprised how much of jerk that guy was. He was nice to you probably because he wanted to dump the car after he beat the crap out of it. I agree with Grumpy, it's in their hands now. Hopefully they know the tb well enough to check the front cover first but I wouldn't be surprised if you got internal damage too.
 
I can't believe the builder even shot you that price without knowing whats up.
Kinda fishy to me. How does anyone put a price on it without knowing what the problem is. Me personally, I would pull the pan and take a look at a few bearings before pulling the motor. If they look alright, I would be looking close at the front cover (oil pump). If it's just the front cover, $2000 is pretty steep but like I said, we don't know without taking a look inside.

Let's hope for the best, keep us posted.


Rick
 
i know you are are respected member here on this site. i have read what he had posted and how and what you posted as to how this problem came up. are you sure that you didn't try to light this thing up and maybe do this yourself? this guy advertised this car and got his ass torn up by poser aholes that just want to talk crap and go after him. if you did something like rev it up and let it go because you just bought it and were curious to see what it would do and screwed something. you have to man up and admit it. nobody here knows anything about that car but you and he don't care about whats said about him obviously. you have nothing to lose to make this post then include the post that you bought the car from from a crazy guy. show me that he lied to you about anything. any body will talk **** to get themselves out of bs with their old lady if their old lady will believe the bs on here.
 
i know you are are respected member here on this site. i have read what he had posted and how and what you posted as to how this problem came up. are you sure that you didn't try to light this thing up and maybe do this yourself? this guy advertised this car and got his ass torn up by poser aholes that just want to talk crap and go after him. if you did something like rev it up and let it go because you just bought it and were curious to see what it would do and screwed something. you have to man up and admit it. nobody here knows anything about that car but you and he don't care about whats said about him obviously. you have nothing to lose to make this post then include the post that you bought the car from from a crazy guy. show me that he lied to you about anything. any body will talk **** to get themselves out of bs with their old lady if their old lady will believe the bs on here.

honestly Wile87 I hav'nt even driven the car for more than 15mins & didnt get in it to much.. lol I would be lying to say I didnt put it into boost.

The only reason I bought the car is because I drove 7 hours with a trailor on the back of my truck & kinda didnt wanna go home empty handed.. like it states above the suspension was not all that he listed but he did have every receipt for the motor & supporting parts which totaled up to over $7000. i paid $5400 for the car.

I myself have never heard of racing a car causing the oil pressure to go. but then again I have only been on the buick seen for a lil over 2yrs..

& I'm not following when you ask me to show you that he lied. I included the link to show what was exactly done to the motor, & just to show a pic of the car..

I did'nt contact him about the low oil pressure problem because.
1. He didnt build the motor
2. It was bought as Is
3. I was a idiot for not watching the oil pressure gauge.

Either way it goes its gonna be better & faster when I get it back I just sent my Gn1 heads to the shop where the car is & they are gonna put them on for me. So now I'm looking for a Nice cam setup.

& for the small price of $2000 the motor will be guaranteed..
 
Ok guys here's the verdict .. Wiped out cam bearings
He stated tht he yanked the whole motor out & replaced the cam bearings & the rockers. Now is this necessary to replace the cam bearings ?
 
well the big question did it spin any of them.. have to make sure ya clean out all of the debris:cool:
 
WTF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:

Got the car back this morning, 60-65 pounds cold.. 10-8 pounds in drive @ a light. & the car is smoking out of the tail pipes .. oh yeah & its leaking oil from the turbo drain hose. " or whatever its called "

*block tanked,magged , honed. new cam bearings & brass freeze plugs
*Crank Cleaned & micro polished
*Bearings & rods cb1398h .010
*isky lifters 969
*rings file fit .030
 
The oil drain line is a pain to get right. There are different gaskets for them. I found some that are white and thick. The seem to seal first time pretty good. Maybe the rings need a little driving time to seal too.
 
969 is the speed pro # for flat tappet lifters. Does the oil pressure shoot up like a tach when you rev it? 8-10 at idle is on the edge of OK in my book. I like 15+ and usually can get it. The clearences in the mains, rods ,oil pump pocket maybe on the loose side.
 
969 is the speed pro # for flat tappet lifters. Does the oil pressure shoot up like a tach when you rev it? 8-10 at idle is on the edge of OK in my book. I like 15+ and usually can get it. The clearences in the mains, rods ,oil pump pocket maybe on the loose side.

oil pressure shoots right up to around 35 when I rev it , I'm just not liking the way it looks @ all. The oil pressure @ 10-8 is still low especially since I just paid some1 to fix it..

& I drove the car a total of 43.6 miles today & when I got home it started smoking again. :(
 
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