What a shop is most likely to do ?

[Alky V6]

Ok guys here's the verdict .. Wiped out cam bearings
He stated tht he yanked the whole motor out & replaced the cam bearings & the rockers. Now is this necessary to replace the cam bearings ?

Yes. If someone wanted me to replace cam bearings in the car, I would end up charging him more, than if I just pulled the whole engine out and did it.
What type of intake gasket was used?

 

[fastlikeanascar]

Yes. If someone wanted me to replace cam bearings in the car, I would end up charging him more, than if I just pulled the whole engine out and did it.
What type of intake gasket was used?

Felpro 1200 for intake.
ballpark where would oil pressure be if you replace all bearings in the motor ?

 

[GNRick]

I think I can add a little to this discussion. My engine builder charged me $800 to remove and install the motor. He pulled the motor after I blew a head gasket. I know many of you would say pulling the motor is not necessary to install HG's but we'll leave that for another day. If you can't get the oil drain tube to seal, BWEAVY sells a drain tube that appears to be more user friendly. It is on his website-GBodyparts.com. Oh, one last story- I bought my car on E-bay. Drove fine at first. Drove it home 4 hours. A week later it was in for a rebuild. I emailed the seller and told him how disappointed I was. He sent me a check for $1000! Engine builder charged me $3500 so it wound up costing me $2500 after all was said and done. Also, soon after he rebuilt the motor, I too had low oil pressure. I brought the car back to him and all he said was he changed the oil and it was fine. I honestly don't know what he did, except for charging me $100 for his time and 5 qts of oil, but I have put 10k miles on it, made 10 passes at the track, and oil pressure is 80 when cold and 15-20 hot. I don't think he even replaced that spring on the front cover that adjusts oil pressure. Good luck with your car

 

[fastlikeanascar]

shucks I just paid $2097.53 to get my problem fixed.. not to count the $800 it cost to ship the car there & back. I have no problem changing the gasket I'm just like damn pay attention to detail.

I would never send a customers car out of my shop leaking especially if it didnt come in leaking..

:biggrin: I'd def pay $100 to solve the problem now.

But happy to hear that you car is running good

 

[Alky V6]

Felpro 1200 for intake.
ballpark where would oil pressure be if you replace all bearings in the motor ?

I would consider 10-20 psi at a hot idle to be normal. Even on a fresh engine. Did the builder give you any idea of what the clearances ended up being on the mains and rods? Or did he give you instructions on what weight oil to always use? The clearances will dictate what weight oil to use with the engine. If the clearances are on the big side, you'd better never switch from a 20w-50 oil.

Do you know if anything was done to the underside of the intake manifold to baffle the pickup to the PCV? If nothing was done, I guarantee you, that is where your oil out the exhaust is coming from. At least, most of it, if not all of it.

 

[fastlikeanascar]

All I could think about last night is I cant wait to get my car.. I tried to stay on the up & up about it but I knew it was gonna be something I promise
you I did !!

Just my luck.

 

[Steve V]

I bet the problem is either the front cover(clearences) or main/rod clearences. Oil psi is 37psi @2400 rpm stock specs with 10-30 IIRC. Take it back,reverse the CC charge or stop payment on the check..do something.

 

[Alky V6]

If the plan is to primarily race the car, the main and rod clearances will most likely be higher than OEM. The weight oil should always match the kind of clearances being used. Find out more about the motor first. Going by the factory manual with all these unknowns is futile.

If you're not comfortable with the outcome, contact the shop and let them know. Be civil about it. If you have yourself a good shop, they should bend over backwards to make you happy with the repair. It might only be a matter of them explaining what they've done better. Please don't stop payment before you even contact the shop. That will put you in bad favor with the shop right off the bat, and the chances of you getting what you want will be far less likely. Good luck.

 

[fastlikeanascar]

ok drivin regular under no boost !!! repeat still have not put boost in the motor !! It just spit about a teaspoon of oil out the passenger side valve cover breather.. all over the headers & downpipe.

I called the shop & he gave me the same spill tht he did about the previous owner that I was getting in it to hard..

the car has not been over 3000 rpm's & has seen no boost I have put 50miles on it since it arrived yesterday mostly getting on & off the highway. not going over 65mph..

He also stated tht it will continue to smoke until I break the motor in ?
I've had motors built b4 I dont know if chevy motors are diff. but none huffed smoke out the tail pipes.

 

[Steve V]

That's BS. excess blow by is pushing oil out the breathers unless the PCV is clogged. Only motor that's smoked from the word go had to come back out and get repaired...right TurboPete ...rings seat almost immediately 1st time it sees boost. Usually after the cam breakin put it ingear and bring boost to 5 psi or so. Then a short drive with low boost and it's done.

 

[Grumpy]

Do you know if anything was done to the underside of the intake manifold to baffle the pickup to the PCV? If nothing was done, I guarantee you, that is where your oil out the exhaust is coming from. At least, most of it, if not all of it.

X2 .. 1200's don't have a lifter valley pan .. BUT blowing oil out the breathers is not a good sign either

 

[Alky V6]

X2 .. 1200's don't have a lifter valley pan .. BUT blowing oil out the breathers is not a good sign either

Agreed.

The shop should have run in the engine before you picked it up. You should take the car to the shop so they can take a look at it for themselves.

 

[Underboost]

Agreed.

The shop should have run in the engine before you picked it up. You should take the car to the shop so they can take a look at it for themselves.

+1

 

[fastlikeanascar]

Unfortunently the Shop is in So-Cal & I'm in Nor-Cal... it will cost me close to another Grand just to send it out... I've taken the car to over 3 diff shops. & gotten estimates on. Just tracing down the oil leak.. its coming out of the passanger side breather even worse now. I have oil sitting all on the top of the spark plug now. & the front of the motor is drenched with oil I guess they cracked oil drain tube..

I'll post pics of the car later.

 

[DCVING 6]

I have oil sitting all on the top of the spark plug now. & the front of the motor is drenched with oil I guess they cracked oil drain tube..

I'll post pics of the car later.

This is very common with the old stock drain tubes. Mine cracked "on its own", I hadn't touched it for months. While underpressure, it sprayed oil all over my nicely detailed engine compartment. Stained the ceramic coating on my downpipe and headers. Luckily most of the spots came out by buffing them with alum polish on a dremel buffer.

 

[DCVING 6]

BTW, get a new drain line on there before it starts a fire!

 

[Pronto]

Maybe someone in your area can come over to help you check a few things. Not sure why your block would pressurize. Is the pcv valve working? Is oil getting blown out anywhere else other than the turbo drain line?

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I'll post pics of the car later.

Post photos of how bad it leaks out the breathers, what rings did they go with?

Sounds like they didnt do much for you, also have you varified if the oil pressure gauge is reading correctly? I had a car when you turned the lights on all the gauges pointed different directions when the headlights were turned on.

Might try another gauge.

BW

 

[fastlikeanascar]

possibly leaking from the front of intake

Oil leaking off back of head

Cross over completly laying on headers normal ? also where oil shot out on pipes & wires.

2nd plug shown soaked in oil.

pic of motor

pic of car

pic of my baby

 

[fastlikeanascar]

I don't want anyone to get the wrong Idea I'm not trying to bash this company in any way but just asking the advice of my peers, friends etc... I have received alot of good and valuable information from many members here on TB.com

So if you guys wanna just tell me I got ripped, I just want to know I can accept it. if everything with my motor is normal & you say I'm over reacting I will accept it..

I'm just looking @ it as there is no way they test drove the car or it would've start leaking. So don't tell me you drove the damn car & it runs good.
" Although it does run good " But it ran good b4 I sent it.

Don't tell me its blowing oil Thru the valve cover because I'm beating on it & its the crank case building up pressure when its really because the valve covers don't have baffles.. " bought grommets with baffles for baffle less valve covers hopefully it fixes that"

Don't tell me the motor has to break in thats why its blowing blue smoke like a train.. " I've had numerous motors built.. young but not new to the game "

you get what you pay for & I paid what he asked . if I was told it would've cost more to fix it right I would've paid more..

I would also like to thank every1 for chiming in. I really appreciate it guys , sincerely I do

Oh yeah I also went & did the oil change like advised , ran 20-50w back thru it. same thing 8-11 psi @ idle.