Where to buy PCV check valve?
- Thread starter hiballin
- Start date
RJC racing
RJC has one check this out RJCRacing The leaders in Buick Performance and Innovation
If you scroll down it is for sale under the deal of the month. Good luck:smile:
RJC has one check this out RJCRacing The leaders in Buick Performance and Innovation
If you scroll down it is for sale under the deal of the month. Good luck:smile:
I got one from this place, but I don't see it listed on there web-site anymore. i called and left a message, i'll let you know if they call back. http://www.psmdiesel.com/
Just a Six??
OK! Who Farted??
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
Glen at HIGHWAY STARS - nos4gn Buick Grand National Parts 1986 1987 Buick Turbo Regal T-Type GNX parts or the dealer should still have them?
Eric Stage I
TurboTweak Guy
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Go to Autozone, get PCV 1162. Works well as a check valve, less oil consumption. It's a tad shorter but the stock hose still seems to work ok.
I have found these to be better than the stock PCV for BLM consistency.
I have found these to be better than the stock PCV for BLM consistency.
That's the one part you DO NOT want to use because as you can see by it's design and description it's designed to replace the stock PCV.
Many folks can tell you from experience it will not work properly in that configuration. It will work fine if used in line WITH the stock PCV. It has virtually an unregulated amount of flow in the vacuum direction which will drive you nuts trying to tune around the whacked out BLM's resulting from using this device.
The stock 893 PCV is the best to use and is calibrated for the PROPER amount of vacuum bleed for these turbo cars. Not just any PCV will work either.
I get so many people coming in trying to figure out why their BLM's are not as they should be, after they've checked for vacuum/exhaust leaks till they're blue in the face!!! I look down and see one of these stupid check valves in place of a good PCV. Rip it, put a few dollar 893 PCV in and their tune goes straight to normal.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
Here you go.
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MJCV-1
Open it up, clip the spring so the valve essentially rattles around and you're all set. If you dont clip the spring, it's gonna do what Dave said above.
Lets see how long it takes some Buick vendor to get this on their website for sale.
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MJCV-1
Open it up, clip the spring so the valve essentially rattles around and you're all set. If you dont clip the spring, it's gonna do what Dave said above.
Lets see how long it takes some Buick vendor to get this on their website for sale.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
Here you go.
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MJCV-1
Open it up, clip the spring so the valve essentially rattles around and you're all set. If you dont clip the spring, it's gonna do what Dave said above.
Lets see how long it takes some Buick vendor to get this on their website for sale.
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MJCV-1
Open it up, clip the spring so the valve essentially rattles around and you're all set. If you dont clip the spring, it's gonna do what Dave said above.
Lets see how long it takes some Buick vendor to get this on their website for sale.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
That doesnt matter. The problem is the crack pressure on the aftermarket valves is too high and engine vacuum wont open them so essentially your PCV isnt doing anything.
Now I am confused that is not what turbo Dave said in his post he said and I quote " It will work fine if used in line WITH the stock PCV. It has virtually an unregulated amount of flow in the vacuum direction which will drive you nuts trying to tune around the whacked out BLM's resulting from using this device".
Yes, you're correct. The "check valves" I've been exposed to had virtually unrestricted flow in the vacuum direction (NOT A GOOD THING), and total seal in the pressure direction (A GOOD THING).
Like the valve that ATR used to sell, and the same one many vendors are still selling.
Like the valve that ATR used to sell, and the same one many vendors are still selling.
I have one of those check valves on my car. It looks just like the one RJC sells except on mine I added a 90 degree angle to it as well as a 2nd barbed hose adapter fitting.
It came with the car and was originally in the PCV grommet hole. I was told it was supposed to keep boost out of the block but the way it was installed was not good.
So I took it out and installed it inline with the PCV, after having to add a few adapters. Below is a pic of it and how I have it installed. Hopefully it's all right like it is.
It came with the car and was originally in the PCV grommet hole. I was told it was supposed to keep boost out of the block but the way it was installed was not good.
So I took it out and installed it inline with the PCV, after having to add a few adapters. Below is a pic of it and how I have it installed. Hopefully it's all right like it is.
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turboc87gn
Darkside in Detroit
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2008
So ummm yeah which one of these do we use or are they the same just one is from autozone? and do we add the check valve that jay suggeseted to the pcv or in place of the pcv ?That's the one part you DO NOT want to use because as you can see by it's design and description it's designed to replace the stock PCV.
Many folks can tell you from experience it will not work properly in that configuration. It will work fine if used in line WITH the stock PCV. It has virtually an unregulated amount of flow in the vacuum direction which will drive you nuts trying to tune around the whacked out BLM's resulting from using this device.
The stock 893 PCV is the best to use and is calibrated for the PROPER amount of vacuum bleed for these turbo cars. Not just any PCV will work either.
I get so many people coming in trying to figure out why their BLM's are not as they should be, after they've checked for vacuum/exhaust leaks till they're blue in the face!!! I look down and see one of these stupid check valves in place of a good PCV. Rip it, put a few dollar 893 PCV in and their tune goes straight to normal.
I don't know anything about this "crack pressure" that Jay refers to. All the check valves I've handled all exhibited the same characteristics. If you sucked on it (vacuum direction) there was no restriction, and unlimited flow, no cracking anything. If you tried blowing through it (boost direction), it was totally sealed.
You need them in line with your PCV, not replacing it.
You need them in line with your PCV, not replacing it.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Most every check valve needs a certian amount of pressure to open. This is what Jay is refering too (crack pressure). We want a check valve that cracks open at 0 or close to it. Not easy to find hence the spring mod or spring removal all together.
I use a industrial SS check with a viton seal. I remove the spring all together so the pcv system never knows it's there. Works great.
I use a industrial SS check with a viton seal. I remove the spring all together so the pcv system never knows it's there. Works great.
