Will a distributor fit with stock setup?
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EightSecV6 said:
Is the original poster in even the realm of 1,500 HP?. We're about to hijacking the thread IMO.
Given some decent/ refined/ thought-out, code, the injector timing can be done independently of the cam sync..
Until someone breaks the mold and does a *proper* CD DIS and does a dyno pull, folks are just playing follow the leader. Which isn't necessary a bad thing, it just slows if not stops developement.
With F.A.S.T. now having the eDistII, and MSD having some robust CNP coils, it would seem that there maybe another answer to the Dissy.
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- May 27, 2001
V6 Beast said:Norbs.... You wouldn't be worried about losing a few HP if you could '60.
Check it out. 1.40 :biggrin:
Sully
Nice Shot!!!
I am not sure about that dude in black bending over...
Maybe we can photo shop that out!!!
FWIW: I now have a distributor conversion kit for the XFI. It is basically an adaptor plug for the module and allows the use of the stock crank sensor. It is plug & play (no splicing) for the electronics. You just have to slide the distributor in where the cam sensor went.
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- May 27, 2001
HighPSI said:
That sounds great, but you need to be on vacation!!!
One of the advantages of distributors with an msd if plug gap we run a .045 gap on my buddies outlaw car and it makes close to 2000 hp .Try running a gap that big on c3i ignition , i hear some guys running as small as .018 to keep it from breaking up under heavy boost. I think some of you guys are getting the wrong idea its a nice more reliable way to go (atleast 1000 dollars) if your having problems with the factory ignition , i am sticking to the c31 until if cause some grief .
I have to go to the distributer to use certain feautures of the gen 7. I.e 2 step and over boost and ignition rev limiting. These features do work right now in the gen 7 on a c3 igntion. However once in a while i will get a violent backfire ,Due to the waste spark, igniting the un burned fuel. I bought a msd billet distributer for $19 so its worth the try.
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- May 27, 2001
norbs said:
What a deal, please let us know what you think!
ttypewhite
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- Oct 1, 2001
norbs said:
Don't you also have to change the engine harness now because the coil pack is not going to be used anymore? Plus the MSD 7A and MSD pick up....Seems like alot of lute Norbs just to use those features and not get any real substainal hp increase like the big boys. For a 10sec high 9 sec car your gonna spend alot of coin for little gains. just a thought. I heard this venture runs about $3000U.S to do. Is there any trueth to this guys?
Just looking for more safety features, i can't afford to hit the rev limiter and blow the gaskets out of it and who knows what else. I have my accel 300+ boxe and will use the factory crank sensor to trigger the dfi, just need to make a $20 jumper on the module connecter harness to bridge in the crank sensor and cam sensor into the dfi box. the gen 7 accepts any input and out put signal that you can throw at it for triggering. I will be using the one tooth as suggested in the dist for cam sync, and cut off the rest. So i will have the cost of new wires and $20 for the distributer and 20 in wiring.
AFter doing some research on the factory crank sensor it appears it uses a 10volt + signal, gnd, and crank signal out into the factory dis module. I only have + ref and - ref for the inputs to the dfi. How do i connect this to the dfi inputs? Do i need a +10v signal still? or do i not need this +10v into the crank signal, do i subsitite it to a 5v signal or a 12v signal? Maybe some experts can chime in, who have done this before
norbs said:
The factory sensor will work with 12 volts. Cal helped me figure the voltage thing out. I used a DFI6a ignition box with coil for about half the cost of the 7al stuff. You can also use the 300 ignition box I think you posted you already have. The ignition controls are very clean with no popping same as the 7AL2. The DFI box is smaller and and puts out more than the 7AL2 or 3. The first thing I noticed after the change is the tune went lean 12-14% across the board EGTs dropped an avg or 200 deg. and the timing is rock steady. If you run in seq. you will need to remove the relutor off the dist. and cut 5 off the contacts off. Be sure to lock out the Mech. advance. Also if you can find one, a HD buick dist is the smallest dist and needs much less grinding off the AC bracket. Here is a pic of the install on Scott Simpsons car. There are setting in the Gen7 and wiring and some timing stuff for seq. you will need to give me a call on that to explain.
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norbs said:
If the problem is unburnt fuel, then changing ignition systems is just covering the symptoms of another problem. Maybe someone should talk to the ecm code guys to develope a timing strategy the limits power rather then dropping cylinders. Using a timing retard as a function of rpm error for staging might be another answer. Or doing a fuel drop for the SEFI cars.
If the ignition drop is leaving lots of excess fuel around, what's to stop it form detonating when the ignition cut is over?. I think some folks have found too rich will cause detonation.
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