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2004R converter slippage too much, need it fixed

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BTW, my data logs show I can get to 110mph unlocked at 6000 rpms in 3d gear and with the converter locked, the logs show I can get 138mph.

At 6100 im at 141mph. Im at 91-92mph in the 2-3 shift. 9.5" PTC
 
what about going to a synthetic ATF? can i see any reduction in slippage and consequently et/mph gains by doing this? if so, which type? im currently using el cheapo Dexron III. i was looking into dex 6 synthetic and others.
 
what about going to a synthetic ATF? can i see any reduction in slippage and consequently et/mph gains by doing this? if so, which type? im currently using el cheapo Dexron III. i was looking into dex 6 synthetic and others.

It will not reduce slip to an acceptable degree by changing fluid. Dex 6 will last much longer than dex 3 when you run it hard
 
remember, i need to retain the lockup feature as i do drive this car frequently. thanks for your time.
The only ones that will be acceptable when locked will be the 9x11 or vig multi-disc. Neither will e.t. as well as a properly spec'd 9.5" PTC nl and the ptc will only slip a little at light cruise. The vigs slip excessively unlocked.
 
What about tractor fluid FTW?

It may only change things a tiny bit. Not going to correct a poor efficiency converter. Its really too bad guys think they need a lockup converter. They really need to go for a cruise in someones 9.5" equipped car. If they did they wouldnt bother with LU converters. Ill never look back. Unless the car is nearly stock it will be better off with a properly spec'd non locking unit
 
The only ones that will be acceptable when locked will be the 9x11 or vig multi-disc. Neither will e.t. as well as a properly spec'd 9.5" PTC nl and the ptc will only slip a little at light cruise. The vigs slip excessively unlocked.

bison, thanks for the info. we will see how my converter acts when i lock it up. right now un-locked im at 21% or so. i have a PTS 9X11 so we will see. also next year i will get a PTC converter
 
can companies make me an 8 inch 3500-4000 lockup for the 200? i'd like to make it as efficient as possible.

No, the 8 inch would be a terrible converter for your set-up even if there was a lock-up converter available in that size. If your 9.5 is slipping, any thing smaller will be worse. You will need a 10" converter.

Your best choices are the 10" lock-ups or a 12" lock-up. You may have several issues causing this slip.

#1 The flash stall is loose enough to make you happy but your engine isn't turning enough rpm for it's power level. It takes rpm to couple the converter.

#2 The ebay converter could just be a poor design and is not what you need up top. With that said though, it could be a decent piece but what your looking for isn't possible without making some changes like rpm range of the engine.

Your best option IMO would be a 10" converter which will reduce top end slip, if you really have a 9.5. I have seen some called a 9.5 but are really a 10". The converters I sell are as loose down low and as tight up top as I can get them for most applications. This will get you the highest possible flash stall and the best efficiency possible. Without looking inside your current converter, I can't say what to expect as far as performance if you were to change converters.
 
From my understanding, nobody can make a lock up converter for a 200-4R that can have very little slippage and still retain the lock-up feature.

Lonnie is right. There are lock-up converters that can deliver the slip #'s your looking for but the issue is that it's pretty much impossible with your combination.

Large turbo, good power, small motor, rather low shift point.

I have 10" Lock-up converters in turbo LS1's that slip under 10%. But the engines are totally different. They have more engine, more rpm range yet don't produce much more power than a large turbo'd Buick. This allows them to run a tight converter and the extra 1000rpm they can turn will bring the slip #'s down.

With the V6's you have a small motor which requires more flash stall to get the large turbo's spooled. Yet they make great power at a low rpm level. This makes for a great street car but is a converter builders worst nightmare.

With a 10" lock-up converter you almost have to build the combo around the converter if your looking for great slip #'s with a lock-up converter. The Buick combos that will perform like this with a 10" lock-up are small turbo's like the new 6262 with a good cam to spin 5600-5800.

The #1 killer of combo's in the Buick world is too much turbo. The non locks can overcome alot of the issues the 10" converters have because your hand isn't tied behind your back from the start.
 
At 6100 im at 141mph. Im at 91-92mph in the 2-3 shift. 9.5" PTC

That is why I took your advise and bought Dusty's converter. It might turn out that I like it without LU on the street. I'm dying to see if it will work as you say. My plans are to install the converter this coming weekend...11-13-09.
 
That is why I took your advise and bought Dusty's converter. It might turn out that I like it without LU on the street. I'm dying to see if it will work as you say. My plans are to install the converter this coming weekend...11-13-09.
Assuming you got a 9.5" im very confident it willperform. Hopefully it will flash to 5400-5500 or so at 26-27psi. If it does you are in for some fun times. The car will accelerate like never before. You will be gaining a bunch in 1st and 2nd too since you will have the very high efficiency in those gears now where you didnt before since you were locking in 3rd. What will happen is you will be going down the road at 60-70mph in 3rd and you will nail it and the engine will just sit at 5400-5500 for about 3-4 seconds while the car accelerates like never before and after that it will start to couple and you should see about 6000rpm in 3rd if you have it cranked up.
 
getting off topic. i don't have a turbo and that has nothing to do with my post. any questions on my combo please ask. any more advice is appreciated.
 
getting off topic. i don't have a turbo and that has nothing to do with my post. any questions on my combo please ask. any more advice is appreciated.


I have the same 10in 2800 PTC l/u unit that Dusty has been talking about. I love it. I think it will put you right where you need to be. I know that when Dusty set mine up he was really involved. He wanted to make sure everything was right. He took the time to have me give him some data and decided we needed a restall. Call ebay up and tell them your converter sucks! Dusty makes all the difference cuz he will stick with you until its right. So tell us about your car. Do you have any pics? My wife would love for me to get rid of the GN and buy an A body.
 
getting off topic. i don't have a turbo and that has nothing to do with my post. any questions on my combo please ask. any more advice is appreciated.

Feel free to post your combo. Include your shift rpm, raceweight and rear gear.

Read carefully, all the info does in fact pertain to you. Whether you have a turbo or not, you are looking for a converter with a certain flash stall that will also deliver your slip goals. This may not be possible with a lock-up converter with your combo due to the nature of the pieces that must be used to retain lock-up. As I mentioned. As you increase flash stall, you also increase slip unless you can turn more rpm over the flash stall to couple the converter more effectively. If I had your converter here in front of me laying in half, I could tell you if it will ever do what you need it to do. That's really the only way to tell you what to do rather than to buy another converter from someone who can give you tech help along the way.
 
I have the same 10in 2800 PTC l/u unit that Dusty has been talking about. I love it. I think it will put you right where you need to be. I know that when Dusty set mine up he was really involved. He wanted to make sure everything was right. He took the time to have me give him some data and decided we needed a restall. Call ebay up and tell them your converter sucks! Dusty makes all the difference cuz he will stick with you until its right. So tell us about your car. Do you have any pics? My wife would love for me to get rid of the GN and buy an A body.
sure it is a 1968 chevelle original numbers matching 327. 3500 pounds, pump gas, runs on 91 octane. 2004R that i love so much, 9.5 inch converter that i have a love-hate relationship right now and the original 8.2 inch 10 bolt. 4.11 gear. 28 inch tall drag radial.

here is a picture of the launch:

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/376/chevellewheelierear1103.png

the car is 100% street car, but i love the track and wish to bracket it next year. i would bracket it right now, but im so anal about how it is running i won't let myself bracket it until it is safely in the 11s. ok so i guess im lying its a 90% street car. i can deal with some crap though. solid cams no problem, higher stall is OK, etc. ive had it since i was 15. bought in early 2005, been working on it ever since. i grabbed a chassis service manual and a set of hand tools and went at it. made some mistakes along the way and now i am where i am. luckily i found team chevelle in 2006, they have been great help and a great bunch of guys in general.

here are some videos:

YouTube - 1968 chevelle 327 burnout

YouTube - 1968 chevelle 327 launch

YouTube - 1968 chevelle 327 1/4 mile pass

the car looks real dark in the dark but it is actually blue. i painted it in july of this year finally.
 
also, i know the motor would like more gear, and i would have no problem going to 4.56 but the only problem with that i have is i have a 406 im planning on putting into it within the next 1.5 years and it's not going to like all that gear for the combo i'm building, especially off the line.
 
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