Before Black BS'ing thread.

[ek02]

I would've used an electric setup because it takes less power to run. If you've got enough room a fan off a Taurus will more more than a little air.

I've had electric, fiberglass flex, plastic flex, and a 15" stainless flex fan on it. The 18" stainless flex fan from Kenne Bell cools it best. The other setups work ok until you sit in traffic with the A/C running on a 93 degree day. It will get up over 200 as it is now. The size of the radiator is the problem. It's the biggest I can fit between the frame rails. Turn off the A/C and it runs a lot cooler. Stays at 180 on a fall day (75 degrees) even with the air on.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

I've had electric, fiberglass flex, plastic flex, and a 15" stainless flex fan on it. The 18" stainless flex fan from Kenne Bell cools it best. The other setups work ok until you sit in traffic with the A/C running on a 93 degree day. It will get up over 200 as it is now. The size of the radiator is the problem. It's the biggest I can fit between the frame rails. Turn off the A/C and it runs a lot cooler. Stays at 180 on a fall day (75 degrees) even with the air on.

I always love seeing pics of your truck. such a motivating experiance for me. And in fact, since you happened to mention AC as well - It got me riled to the point to start working on my truck.

I know exactly what you mean by limited radiator space. Im gauging your roughly in the 18x19 area like i am which we both know isnt alot of cooling. I hadnt decided on condensor placement though... and your experiance in traffic confirms my suspicions on the location. I may attempt to use a remote unit up under the bed. I already have my oil/trans cooler mounted remotely under the body. I had been using a 55 chevy steel 4 blade mechanical fan that moved air and tossed horsepower away like a monster. It kept it a nice 185 in 105* weather. But this time around im going electric... so i have my concerns.

 

[ek02]

My BeCool aluminum 2 row with 1" tubes is 22" high and 18 1/2" wide. The core is 17"x 17 1/2". It was made for a 67 Mustang, and I had them swap the necks side for side. I had a 3 row 1/2" tube copper core that cooled pretty well, but more horsepower, more cooling needed. Getting the oil coolers out of the way helps. I moved my trans cooler a few inches forward of the condenser and it made a 5 degree difference. My flex fan was really noisy until I put a bigger water pump pulley on to slow it down. Before, I could make a paper towel holder on the wall move when I reved it. A cross flow radiator would be the best way to go if you have the room. A remote mounted condenser should work with a good fan if your radiator can be left in the front and still run cool. I never really thought about it, but it could be done fairly easy.

 

[mat231v6]

OK bought some e3 plugs. The part number is e3 42. My issue is they showed the same part number regardless if it was turbo or na. Does anyone know if this is correct.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[charlief1]

Don't do it Matt. They won't work right. In the old NA I tried quite a few different plugs and still ended up going back to the stock style.

 

[charlief1]

Don't do it Matt. They won't work right. In the old NA I tried quite a few different plugs and still ended up going back to the stock style.

 

[mat231v6]

OK because I just paid 40$ for them. What went wrong with them?

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[charlief1]

Mostly loss of performance, and rapid erosion of the tips.

 

[mat231v6]

i think i am going to return them.. any suggestions on plugs (with a part number)

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Ngk ur5. Cheap, easy to get, work good. Good enough to run when its 10 below out and don't detonate on me.

Sent via a potato with the sour cream and shredded cheese app

 

[charlief1]

That's the same plug I was going to say use.

 

[mat231v6]

ok, here is a quick question does anyone know where to get ARP head bolts cheap or at least at a good price.

 

[charlief1]

I got my ARP studs off evilbay Matt. Left over from a build that didn't happen, so I got them cheap.

 

[mat231v6]

I got my ARP studs off evilbay Matt. Left over from a build that didn't happen, so I got them cheap.

thanks charlie i thought i better ask before i order some from ebay. here is the best price i could find http://www.ebay.com/itm/191232156685?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

on another note, wow gasket sets at the auto parts store are expensive $80. i remember buying sets for $20 at the swap meet minus the intake gasket. wish i could find that deal again.

 

[charlief1]

There's 2 different ones Matt, so make sure which block and heads their for. The shorter ones are for the 109 blocks and the longer ones are for the earlier ones.

 

[mat231v6]

i did not know that. So by the post can you tell if these are the correct bolts i need?

 

[charlief1]

Do a search in the engine section Matt. I don't know the numbers off hand and I've got studs so that won't help.

 

[mat231v6]

whats the studs part numbers? i might just go that way; if i ever have to remove the head in the car i am screwed tho. i will try to see if i can find the part number in the engine section.

 

[mat231v6]

found it i think...
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/intake-and-cylinder-head-bolts.311161/#post-2426643


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-123-3601/Application/?prefilter=0


So Charlie whats been going on its been a while. Any new projects or work done on the buick?

 

[charlief1]

Stud number is 123-401, and one end has a allen socket in it so you can remove them if you've got to pull the head. Not as hard as you think to remove them that way.