You can type here any text you want

Before Black BS'ing thread.

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
That`s a good idea... I was going to do that with my friends 87 GN header panel, that he hit a school bus with:eek::biggrin: I still have to get it from him... its cracked and the grill is smashed. Should be a fun fix and by fun, I mean a paint in the A:rolleyes:
i wished you lived closer because i would fix it.
I doubt that my rust repair is that great Matt but I'd really like to see the rest, especialy the leading method. I'd like to know how to do all the work but there's only so much time after all.:biggrin:

i will add leading. i have some 1969 camaro doors someone bought from the swap meet and it has tons of pin holes in the edges. he ended up buying new one so now i have them. i guess i can show people how to do the work with that.
 
there are 2 v6's on Portland Craigslist, a 231 ($100) and a 252 ($85) . Says in North Plains, wherever that is. Cant believe thats all they are asking!!
 
i wished you lived closer because i would fix it.


i will add leading. i have some 1969 camaro doors someone bought from the swap meet and it has tons of pin holes in the edges. he ended up buying new one so now i have them. i guess i can show people how to do the work with that.

Just hit yours with a sledgehammer and then fix it... j/k, don`t do that:biggrin:

Well I went and checked the turbo parts today... the hood has some rust on the inner rails, but fixable and he also has a trunk lid in perfect shape, the header panel was in good shape, it has clean turn signals, bezels are in ok shape(has a spare set too), the turbo parts were all there and it does has a PERV:eek::p One of the tabs on the top is broke, but I can plastic weld it:biggrin: now lets just hope it works:rolleyes: It has a iron intake, but I can deal with it for now. Not bad for $150 huh?
 
Just hit yours with a sledgehammer and then fix it... j/k, don`t do that:biggrin:

Well I went and checked the turbo parts today... the hood has some rust on the inner rails, but fixable and he also has a trunk lid in perfect shape, the header panel was in good shape, it has clean turn signals, bezels are in ok shape(has a spare set too), the turbo parts were all there and it does has a PERV:eek::p One of the tabs on the top is broke, but I can plastic weld it:biggrin: now lets just hope it works:rolleyes: It has a iron intake, but I can deal with it for now. Not bad for $150 huh?

I'm not going to be hitting my header panel anytime soon. maybe you can add to the thread when i make it. just to let you know the cast iron manifolds might only work on 78 heads... the ports are different see my example. you know you can always port the intake. i did it on mine it cost me more to have it welded back together than it was worth.:mad: what i did was cut the bottom of the intake and cleaned it up and opened the ports up better. there are two ports that you cant open up all the way because of the bolts hole for the pevr and something else. i really wished i took more pictures of me doing it..:frown: just make sure you have the right heads for the intake you can see all the flow you would lose with the wrong intake.
 

Attachments

  • SDC10024.jpg
    SDC10024.jpg
    76.4 KB · Views: 118
  • SDC10017.jpg
    SDC10017.jpg
    74.7 KB · Views: 122
  • SDC10024 - Copy.jpg
    SDC10024 - Copy.jpg
    76.8 KB · Views: 119
  • SDC10082.jpg
    SDC10082.jpg
    22.8 KB · Views: 114
Well its a '79 intake, so it should fit my 8445 heads. Have a spare alloy one?:biggrin:

He surprised me with TA aluminum stage 2 heads that he got for $50:eek: but a rod blew and busted one of the blots right out of the head and it busted a chunk of the aluminum off... I wish I could get them and have a machine shop fix them and drill holes for it to fit a non stage motor and use a stage 2 intake for B/T, but you have to buy roller rockers for it and they are very expensive:(
 
All this motor talk has a hold on me now, so i picked up a 3.8 c/t that was puffin for $300:cool: im thinking that is has valve seal problems or the rings since the turbo has very little side/side play,this is going to be great because I get a chance to learn how to rebuild the motor at my friends shop:biggrin:

totally cool dude.:biggrin: You'll need to tear it down to see what it needs but it's a good start.:cool:
 
Well its a '79 intake, so it should fit my 8445 heads. Have a spare alloy one?:biggrin:

He surprised me with TA aluminum stage 2 heads that he got for $50:eek: but a rod blew and busted one of the blots right out of the head and it busted a chunk of the aluminum off... I wish I could get them and have a machine shop fix them and drill holes for it to fit a non stage motor and use a stage 2 intake for B/T, but you have to buy roller rockers for it and they are very expensive:(

i just want to make sure you dont make the same mistake i did...:redface: do you see the big difference in the ports..
 
They are fixable, but I don`t think the guy wants to sell them... he wants the hang the up in his garage:rolleyes: I will hassle him about it and see if he breaks lose with a price:biggrin: I will get some pics just because I can:D

well if there repairable i probably wont want them then....

unless there a good number casting...

really im looking for one I can saw up and use as a porting guide.

A.j.
 
well if there repairable i probably wont want them then....

unless there a good number casting...

really im looking for one I can saw up and use as a porting guide.

A.j.

Whooo... easy there Dr Frankenstein, lets not go mad scientist on my soon to be TA heads:biggrin:
 
lol... well, that`s true.

I have 3 different casting number stage heads that I have sawed in sections! amongst probably 5 or 6 8445s that have been cut to learn casting consistency.

should see my chevy and pontiac collection of sawings as well, whole room just for head sawings.

its the best possible way to port from home I have found. this way you can learn the water jacket locations, flow, and how to maximize your port. destroyed heads are great ways to do this, as you can find them tossed in the dumpster behind "Real" race shops (like where you know the pro-stock and TSL/TSO boys sleep) ... pull em out and saw them up..... I bet they paid a mint for flow data... and even if it wasnt that great, probably 10 times better than just eyeballing it at home. but from there you can learn and copy the techniques.

first thing I teach about porting is "Digital-izing" which is learn to read ports with just your index and middle finger. then go act like a dumb ass at a "real" race shop and ask to see work because your interested in theres.... when you take the tour... just spend the time "Fingering" (LMAO yes thats why I like it) the ports and learning what the big boys are doing. go home and replicate.

lol......... if you aint cheating.... you aint using all of your resources.

A.j.
 
What ive kinda wondered, is how champion charges so much for ported heads. Its like $1000 for the pair, isnt it just a few hours on a CNC machine? Adds $1000 of value in a few hours, seems like a goldmine to me. Of course it has valves, springs and stuff, but that adds to under $400. I know CNC time is pricey, but it aint that much.

Ive read some head porting stuff, that its a gasket match and bowl work along with getting the guides smooth that gets 95% of the results, but Id like to see the close up difference side view between a stocker and ported personally.

Ive got access to an air die grinder. It worked great when I ported out my plenum and turbo inlet, but it woulnt hardly cut into the exhaust elbow when I tried cleaning that up.

My dremel worked OK when I cleaned the heads up last spring, dug all the rust off the water jackets and got all the carbon out of the exhaust crossover, which I should just plug. But I wasnt able to do hardly anything when it came to port work. Was able to smooth it out a bit, and round the huge corners off the guides, but thats about all I did.

Really I would need to invest in a electric die grinder, that air one is SO LOUD.
 
Back
Top