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NVU gauge cluster installation.

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The backlighting going out with the amber flashing appears to be normal in warning mode. I have a low temp warning set on my gauge at 140 deg. And it does the same thing until it's up above that. Definitely gets your attention at night, noticeable but much more subtle during the day. I set my low fuel at 1/8th and haven't seen that one yet.
 
I am just getting started on my install. Please excuse this dumb question:

Where did you guys install the oil pressure and water temp sensors?
 
The temp sensor is on the front of the intake somewhat on the driver side. The oil sender is at the lower part of the block at the front on the the driver side. Beside the timing cover.
 
If you follow the turbo oil line down to the block, there's a t-fitting. One side of the tee feeds the turbo and the other has a sending unit for the idiot light which you will no longer be using. That's where I put the oil sending unit. Water temp probe is on the front side of the intake below the throttle body next to the thermostat housing. Should be a sender in there for the idiot light which you will no longer be using... Hope that helps
 
If you follow the turbo oil line down to the block, there's a t-fitting. One side of the tee feeds the turbo and the other has a sending unit for the idiot light which you will no longer be using. That's where I put the oil sending unit. Water temp probe is on the front side of the intake below the throttle body next to the thermostat housing. Should be a sender in there for the idiot light which you will no longer be using... Hope that helps

I think you do need the oil idiot light wire for the oil. That is also wire to the fuel pump relay that will shut the pump down if you fall below four pounds of pressure. I do know that if you have the gauge package that can be set to flash as a warning you don't need it however if you have the short sweep you do
 
I think you do need the oil idiot light wire for the oil. That is also wire to the fuel pump relay that will shut the pump down if you fall below four pounds of pressure. I do know that if you have the gauge package that can be set to flash as a warning you don't need it however if you have the short sweep you do
It won't actually shut the pump down the Oil pressure sender is in parallel to the FP relay. to provide a back up to keep the fuel pump going
 
I think you do need the oil idiot light wire for the oil. That is also wire to the fuel pump relay that will shut the pump down if you fall below four pounds of pressure. I do know that if you have the gauge package that can be set to flash as a warning you don't need it however if you have the short sweep you do

I have the performance II setup (stepper gauges).

So after installing the senders do I run new wires for both into passenger compartment? The OEM wiring is not used any longer for these?
 
I finished my install today, but the car isn't running right a few cylinders aren't firing right and initial diagnosis isn't indicating any of the obvious plug wire, coil, or injector problems....This car has been fighting me tooth and nail and it has been very discouraging to say the least.
 
I finished my install today, but the car isn't running right a few cylinders aren't firing right and initial diagnosis isn't indicating any of the obvious plug wire, coil, or injector problems....This car has been fighting me tooth and nail and it has been very discouraging to say the least.

Sorry to hear this Steve, would be happy to run down there to help
 
The only upside is I dont have the cat back exhaust on yet, and idle sounds like a top fuel dragster so my neighbors must think I m a bad ass.
 
I actually used T taps on the stock wiring for the pressure sender. Didn't run any new wires except the new sender needed it's own ground. I put the T taps in 20 years ago or so when I put in my first pressure gauge. I'll post some pictures next week when I get home and can take some.
 
I actually used T taps on the stock wiring for the pressure sender. Didn't run any new wires except the new sender needed it's own ground. I put the T taps in 20 years ago or so when I put in my first pressure gauge. I'll post some pictures next week when I get home and can take some.

That would be great! I am not familiar with what a T tap is or how they work.
 

I had never heard of T taps but they came with my AVC Panel. Soldering and heat shrink is obviously the best way to go but I've had good luck with these. Make sure you use the proper size for the wire. The T tap is female and an insulated male terminal mates to it.
 
Thanks to everyone that replied. It's nice to know I have all you guys helping out when I need it!
 
I always referred to this "T" taps as IDC Insulation Displacing Connectors. You have to be careful with those in humid areas since it can cause green corrosion at the site,
 
What's the size of the NVU water temperature sender threads? My intake was welded with a female 5/8-18 UNF. The original hole cracked a long time ago and I had it repaired with that fitting. Now I need to find another fitting. Male side needs to be 5/8-18 UNF and female side needs to be whatever the NVU sender is.
The middle-sized included adapter was close but not close enough. Go figure...

1/8 NPT. It is etched on the fitting
 
Hey All! My car is still in AZ and I'm still working in TX. Just got done re-reading 20 pages of this and before I send my gauges back to NVU had a few questions that were brought up over the course of the thread.
1. Did anyone go ahead and order the clear overlay so there is something between the gauge faces and your fingers? If so, did it work and can you see the gauges?
2. Did you get your dimmer switch from NVU and can you eliminate the factory dimmer? Which leads to question 3.
3. Did anyone get a hold of TR Customs about an overlay for the programming buttons? I'm thinking that if a new overlay was ordered without the slot for the factory dimmer, there would be plenty of room for the buttons and labeling.
Thanks in advance and your installs look GREAT!
 
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