Powermaster to Hydroboost conversion

[Jonasterg]

I did the same thing. Used the exact parts I wrote a few posts ago, including the 84 hydroboost unit. Everything bolted in directly, no rod modification needed.

 

[Dennis Kirban]

I fixed it. The pump doesn't whine now. It was the hydroboost. Rockauto is return and rebuild only now, autozone out of stock at distribution, advance same, oriely's 7-10 days, nappa do damn expensive. I have hoses and a master cylinder for sale now if anyone is interested. The hydroboost is going back to autozone today. I was not going to have the car down another week.

Oh, the trick for the brake pedal is to take the nut off of the bolt that holds the pedal, push the bolt out, but not all the way. Then you can swing the pedal down far enough to attach the hydroboost end. I dropped the steering column down also so I could push the bolt back through. That way you don't have to take the seat out or even lay on your back under the dash. I did everything kneeling outside of the car.:biggrin:

Boy do I understand that abut getting to the brake pedal. Only way I can see getting pedal assemblies in yards is if steering column is out of the car and having the two proper size wrenches and a flash lite.

denniskirban@yaoo.com

 

[Dennis Kirban]

I used the one in the writeup, which is supposed to be the '84-'85 unit and it went on my '87 perfect. As far as I know the rod is the same.

I been told they are different legnths...however I plan to get a rebuilt one from Cardone to compare to the powermaster rods....for length I assume it has the bigger hole n the end (1/2) to go on the pedal pin gizmo.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

 

[BuickMike]

I been told they are different legnths...however I plan to get a rebuilt one from Cardone to compare to the powermaster rods....for length I assume it has the bigger hole n the end (1/2) to go on the pedal pin gizmo.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

It does have the same size hole as the powermaster unit. I bolted up the '84 Hydroboost to the firewall and the end of the rod was where it is supposed to be. If the rods are different lengths, I'd be willing to bet it is because the distance from the plunger to pedal on each unit is different, not because the pedal assemblies are different. My guess is that they used the identical pedal assembly on all the HB and PM cars. Take it from those of us who have done the swap, the rod on the hydroboost lines up perfectly and does not need to be swapped. If anything, you may need to screw in the brake pedal switches a couple turns but that is it.

 

[Dennis Kirban]

It does have the same size hole as the powermaster unit. I bolted up the '84 Hydroboost to the firewall and the end of the rod was where it is supposed to be. If the rods are different lengths, I'd be willing to bet it is because the distance from the plunger to pedal on each unit is different, not because the pedal assemblies are different. My guess is that they used the identical pedal assembly on all the HB and PM cars. Take it from those of us who have done the swap, the rod on the hydroboost lines up perfectly and does not need to be swapped. If anything, you may need to screw in the brake pedal switches a couple turns but that is it.

That is good to know already pricing out the 84 hoses meta 3/8 T and lengths of 4 foot hose etc. 84 mc and 84 hydroboost unit.

thanz

denniskirban@yahoo.com

I am told 1981 regal diesel mc works and cardone has 60 of them in stock in philly with connection with cardone I can also find out how many they have and where they are.

 

[The_Six]

I got tired of using that T and made this I don't have a pix from after I powder coated it black but it almost looks original in the car I used the original resivoir bracket and had an engraving place engrave the cap to match the original writing .

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[The_Six]

Forgot the pic

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[NY_GN]

I mentioned this post to someone the other day; I finished my conversion based on the parts from this post and it's freakin awesome. I'm able to stop on a dime.

Only thing I had to do was widen the hole on the rod to fit the pedal, other than that it was pretty straight forward.

 

[Nascar83Fan]

Stopping isnt an issue with hydroboost ( as long as the power steering pump is working), too bad gm didn't use this system in place of the powermaster on our cars. Really made a difference in stopping reliability and getting stopped in shorter distances which is a plus.


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[buddy]

I did this install last week and the whole thing took about two hours including removal of pm. Fwiw I only removed serp belt, airbox and intercooler to get to the pressure hoses. I worked around the alternator and ac compressor and didn't have any trouble.

 

[LIVE4RDO]

subscribed

 

[Dennis Kirban]

Kirban update:

We now have two hydro boost systems available. Cardone was bale to find more of the 84 units to rebuild for me. We are also putting together a 3rd version so we will have 3 versions falling between between $290 and $760.00. You can see two of them currently (7-25-2014) on our website. The third version which will fall around the $650 price tag we are still working on.

The big difference with this system that is not featured yet is the hoses are rubber pressure hoses not stainless and you have to cut one end of each to proper length. Everything is brand new in this kit as well.

The key feature regardless of what system you are running in the hydroboost is you got to keep the power steering fluid clean and free of dirt.

All the systems we sell fit and are designed for the 1986-1987 Turbo Regal and clears the stock remote power steering reservoir.
We also have a new vacuum kit available that includes the correct vacuum brake pedal. Again this would be for a fairly stock turbo regal since it works by vacuum. This new kit has a price tag of $349.95.

Over the last 3 weeks the Hydratech system we introduced has been our biggest seller.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Someone should do a you tube video where they simply position their left foot out the open drivers door to stop their turbo regal.
Title it "Last Resort".

 

[TurboDragOn]

I'm going to do the swap soon, hopefully tomorrow, but I just wanted to share that there is another option on this for the MC which is a 10-1926.

Looks pretty close to the original style MC. I'm in the parts business and I can put these parts together with everything including fluids for like $200 to $250. You can also go new with a 13-1926 if you don't trust reman Cardones. Just thought I'd share the option.

EDIT: I just tried this MC and it isn't going to work even when I removed the spacer on the HB the mounting flange is too big. SMH

 

[gnxparts]

If any of you guys are removing a power master I'm in need of a brake pedal
Let me know who has one
Thanks
Gnxparts@gmail.com

 

[BobbyBuick]

I bought everything with the oem looking MC for 200.00 /Only thing anyone might consider car stalls ....no brakes... and or lose belt... no brakes....there is no reserve vacuum like the booster or PM System unless you go with the more expensive Hydroboost

 

[TexasT]

I bought everything with the oem looking MC for 200.00 /Only thing anyone might consider car stalls ....no brakes... and or lose belt... no brakes....there is no reserve vacuum like the booster or PM System unless you go with the more expensive Hydroboost

You have brakes, just not power brakes. Been down that road with my Suburban(and it has the reservoir for backup but it doesn't last long). Chucked the tensioner pulley. You also don't have power steering at that point. Real bummer. Keep the tensioner, belt and fluid in good condition and you are good.


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[TurboDragOn]

If any of you guys are removing a power master I'm in need of a brake pedal
Let me know who has one
Thanks
Gnxparts@gmail.com

Sorry no pedal to offer as I'm using the one I have to install the HB. I will however being trying to sell the old PM assembly. It only needs the switch as it started leaking and has forced me to install the HB that I've had for quite some time, deciding on when exactly I should install.The price and availability of the brake switch is just redunkuluos! Just cheaper for me to install the HB. Much easier to rebuild and the parts are way cheaper for me.

On another note. I have found another article that suggests a 10-1740 master will work and is from I believe a 90's Caddi. I ordered it yesterday at my job so I'll have it today and I'll post results as soon as I have time to try.

Special thanks to TurboNut85 for originally posting this thread. It's been very useful.

 

[TexasT]

It works

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[TurboDragOn]

It works

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Yes indeed it does.

Doesn't come close to touching the PS reservior either. Don't like the look on the downward angle of the MS reservoir though but I can live with it.

 

[TurboDragOn]

Everything went smooth with installing the parts except for the lines to the master. At first they were both in the right position and did not need to be massaged into opposite locations like mentioned by other owners but I had problems with the forward master port as I think Cardone must have re-tapped it a bit off cause it wouldn't stop leaking so I had to install adapters and switch locations of the lines to the master. Finally got all that situated but ever since I installed the HB the pump whines when brakes are applied or turning at low idle. Also vehicle will stumble or stall when braking and making a hard turn. I bled it multiple times and there is one strange thing happening. When I bleed the P/S system, if I go stop to stop extremely slow with tire off the ground and engine off I get no burps, but if I turn stop to stop normal or fast I get an air burp. Is this normal or do I have a line possibly sucking in air?
Sorry if not the right thread to post but just wondering if I may need to disassemble and readjust fittings or could I have a failing pump?
Wanted some feedback from anyone with the same experience that I am coming across and wonder if there is a procedure to rule one or the other out?