Powermaster to Hydroboost conversion

[TexasT]

Without the engine running no fluid is being pumped. Therefore no air is being expelled. Jack up the front , start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock several times. Keep an eye on your fluid level so it doesn't suck the reservoir dry and put air in.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[charlief1]

Without the engine running no fluid is being pumped. Therefore no air is being expelled. Jack up the front , start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock several times. Keep an eye on your fluid level so it doesn't suck the reservoir dry and put air in.

Sorry Rich, but if the gear box is being turned fluid is flowing through the gear box. Even though it's powered by the pump it is also a pump of sorts.

 

[TexasT]

I can see that the gear box might move a little fluid but the pump moves a lot of fluid and pushes the air around. And it didn't sound to me like it got the air out if it was making noise.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[TurboDragOn]

Without the engine running no fluid is being pumped. Therefore no air is being expelled. Jack up the front , start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock several times. Keep an eye on your fluid level so it doesn't suck the reservoir dry and put air in.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

OK, so I should try bleeding with engine running and front wheels off the ground, Turning stop to stop a couple of times?

 

[TexasT]

That's what I would do. Can't hurt but could help. That's the way I bled my steering part then we bled the brakes part. Again watching the reservoir to prevent it from running dry and having to start again. Use a 2x4 under the pedal if you are going old school and have a inexperienced pedal pusher. This prevents them from bottoming out the pedal.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[TurboDragOn]

That's what I would do. Can't hurt but could help. That's the way I bled my steering part then we bled the brakes part. Again watching the reservoir to prevent it from running dry and having to start again. Use a 2x4 under the pedal if you are going old school and have a inexperienced pedal pusher. This prevents them from bottoming out the pedal.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Bled the system as you suggested and it helped. Also needed to bleed all four wheels. Seems a lot better but I think the pump might be on the way out. Also found out I have a warped pass side axle. Funny thing though is I don't have high speed vibration or wobble. Oh well. Time to rebuild the tired rear end.

Thanks for the help Tex.

 

[GSSTAGE3]

We are have Trouble with are Hydroboost Brakes seem good no Air in the System Bleed out. Brake seem Firm when it isn't Running Pump Brake Hold Firm Pedal Pressure start Car feel the Brake Pressure push against your Foot. When you Push Down on Brake Pedal with Car Running it Goes down close to the Floor. You take your Foot of the Brake it doesn't Return all the way back up and you Hear the Pump making Noise. Car will not movie in Gear Put your Foot under Brake Pedal to Pull it up then it will Movie Sticks every Time. Any ideal ?

 

[TexasT]

There is a clip on the shaft of the hydro boost that can get hung up in some master cylinders. This could be your problem. You should pull the mc to see if you are experiencing this problem. If so you can file or grind some clearance on the edge of the clip. If this isn't your problem you could have the lines not connected correctly or a faulty hydroboost unit.
Time for some trouble shooting. Let us know how you do.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Jerryl]

I'm going to do the swap soon, hopefully tomorrow, but I just wanted to share that there is another option on this for the MC which is a 10-1926.

Looks pretty close to the original style MC. I'm in the parts business and I can put these parts together with everything including fluids for like $200 to $250. You can also go new with a 13-1926 if you don't trust reman Cardones. Just thought I'd share the option.

EDIT: I just tried this MC and it isn't going to work even when I removed the spacer on the HB the mounting flange is too big. SMH

Sorry no pedal to offer as I'm using the one I have to install the HB. I will however being trying to sell the old PM assembly. It only needs the switch as it started leaking and has forced me to install the HB that I've had for quite some time, deciding on when exactly I should install.The price and availability of the brake switch is just redunkuluos! Just cheaper for me to install the HB. Much easier to rebuild and the parts are way cheaper for me.

On another note. I have found another article that suggests a 10-1740 master will work and is from I believe a 90's Caddi. I ordered it yesterday at my job so I'll have it today and I'll post results as soon as I have time to try.

Special thanks to TurboNut85 for originally posting this thread. It's been very useful.

Hey Turbodragon.
The 10-1740 works, but what did you end up doing about the brake lines?

 

[liquidh8]

X2 on if this master worked out.

 

[larry33kc]

Ok I've done a search and looked at a bunch of treads. Everyone says that a vac pedal won't work with a hydro boost but why. I'm asking because I don't have a pm pedal.

 

[Turbotre]

Ok I've done a search and looked at a bunch of treads. Everyone says that a vac pedal won't work with a hydro boost but why. I'm asking because I don't have a pm pedal.

The attachment pin is in a different location. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/brake-pedal-modification-pm-to-vac.418576/

 

[lrayzer]

What he said !, redrill your pedal.

 

[liquidh8]

The pin on the brake pedal for the booster is in a different spot. I have some pictures somewhere or the difference.

:EDIT: Look here for all the pics. http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=120613

 

[getdowngranny]

Can someone please clarify which line goes where. In the pictures the larger lines goes on the port nearest to the firewall and the small line forward.... which was opposite of the powermaster. I have read another thread saying that the larger one need to go on the forward port which is the one furthest from the firewall..... So, how is it supposed to be? Here is the other thread.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/hydroboost-10-1740-master-cylinder-question.412454/

 

[1quick6]

Once you are sure there is no air in the master cylinder, connect the steel brake lines to the mc. With the HB master cylinder, the brake lines are the opposite of the Powermaster orientation. Connect the large line to the back port and the skinnier line to the front port on the master cylinder. You can’t get this wrong because if you look at it on your car, there is no way the larger line will make it to the front port on the MC.

See here.

 

[mapmaker]

I certainly hope so - just finished hooking mine up 10 minutes ago Mine is a little different with a line lock in place, but there really is only one way it can go. And, yeah, that HB to pump hose is a beast to get in.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[getdowngranny]

Once you are sure there is no air in the master cylinder, connect the steel brake lines to the mc. With the HB master cylinder, the brake lines are the opposite of the Powermaster orientation. Connect the large line to the back port and the skinnier line to the front port on the master cylinder. You can’t get this wrong because if you look at it on your car, there is no way the larger line will make it to the front port on the MC.

See here.

Understood. So the thread that I posted with the 10-1740 master cylinder (plastic) clearly says the big one goes forward. Just like this article.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/brakes/1008gmhtp-grand-national-hydroboost-braking-system/

So is it safe to say that if you have the 10-1984 MC the bigger line goes on the back and if you have the plastic 10-1740 the bigger line goes on the front?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[1quick6]

I didn't see you were using that MC. It's my understanding that the article you liked at Super Chevy is correct. The orientation I mentioned is for the 84/85 cardone MC.

 

[getdowngranny]

I just finished my swap after a few snags. I decided to use the 10-1984 master cylinder over the plastic 10-1740 just because when I put them side by side the all metal 10-1984 looks a lot sturdier.

For the first time since I've owned the car I can trust my brakes. With the stock brakes up front and the s10 stuff on the rear it'll slam you to the windshield. On the street with cold tires it now holds 12 pounds of boost as compared to 3-5 psi before. I love hydroboost.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk