Stage 2 TT street car

Another idea. Did Cal send you a whole new file to try? Or are you working from some old file that's been modified multiple times? It might be worthwhile to start with a whole new tune file, maybe the old one is corrupt.

I'll be honest, if Cal has helped you and he couldn't find it, It's going to be a tough one to figure out. Or it's a problem unrelated to the efi.
Cal sent a new file. Since I found the coil pack was bad yesterday I have not reinstalled the plugs (which were drenched) and tried again, it may fire right up this time, only 1 of the 3 coils was firing which explains the flooding.
Mike
 
You don't need a fuel pressure sensor on the FAST. It was just one of the parameters on your dash (circled red below). Notice FP correction circled green. I'm not sure if that shows whether the fuel pressure correction is turned on or not, but you should check it. If you don't have the fuel pressure sensor, it should not be turned on. It's in the fuel settings if I remember correctly. (edit: found a pic online)


View attachment 331144
View attachment 331146
I'll check this also before trying again.
Mike
 
The lights are illuminated on the Caspers adapter?
 
Added 2 bottles of Heet to the tank, new crank sensor & it started. Have to hold the throttle halfway open for it to run but it stayed running for the first time. So at least I have a starting point, now I can do something. FP correction was already off.
Mike
 
Added 2 bottles of Heet to the tank, new crank sensor & it started. Have to hold the throttle halfway open for it to run but it stayed running for the first time. So at least I have a starting point, now I can do something. FP correction was already off.
Mike
Congratulations!!!!!!!:D

Now for the next step...........................

Working out all the bugs and gremlins.
 
Before I pulled the alternator I started it again and took a shot of the FAST dash. Runs like crap, check engine light came on. What does error code 2 64 mean?
Capturemmm.JPG
 
Cam Sync Position Error
Cam Sync occurred at an unexpected angle -orCam Sync failed to occur when expected
 
Would this would be a FAST setting/adjustment and not another hardware failure?
 
The spark BTDC in the dash screen shot above is exactly what the timing light reads. Balancer set to stock 10 degrees, not 50 and FAST is set to 10 degrees as well as DIS.
 
Would this would be a FAST setting/adjustment and not another hardware failure?
Not likely a FAST setting. Where (degrees) is you cam sync currently supposed to happen. You can datalog cam sync to see if the reading is erratic. If it is, you probably have a noise issue.

Also, double check your adapter harness. The ECU has two possible cam sync inputs, Inductive and Hall Effect. I assume you are using a stock cam sync, so you are using the hall effect input. In that case the Inductive input should be grounded.
 
Not likely a FAST setting. Where (degrees) is you cam sync currently supposed to happen. You can datalog cam sync to see if the reading is erratic. If it is, you probably have a noise issue.

Also, double check your adapter harness. The ECU has two possible cam sync inputs, Inductive and Hall Effect. I assume you are using a stock cam sync, so you are using the hall effect input. In that case the Inductive input should be grounded.
Thanks Mike, I'll check it tonight.
 
Not likely a FAST setting. Where (degrees) is you cam sync currently supposed to happen. You can datalog cam sync to see if the reading is erratic. If it is, you probably have a noise issue.

Also, double check your adapter harness. The ECU has two possible cam sync inputs, Inductive and Hall Effect. I assume you are using a stock cam sync, so you are using the hall effect input. In that case the Inductive input should be grounded.
So looking at the FAST ECU pin outs it looks like should connect wire A1 to A3?
Inductive.JPG
If the cam sync is erratic how should I correct it, would I need to replace specific wiring with twisted shielded pairs?
Mike
 
So looking at the FAST ECU pin outs it looks like should connect wire A1 to A3?
View attachment 332134
If the cam sync is erratic how should I correct it, would I need to replace specific wiring with twisted shielded pairs?
Mike
Yes, on the A1 to A3. I would bet that it's already done on the adapter harness, but check. You can get a better layout of the pins here. https://www.fuelairspark.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/FAST/FAST_PDF/XFI_Schematic_301100_GM_TPI.pdf The help file in the software has lots more notes about wiring, like grouding unused cam and crank inputs.

Yes the best way would be shielded wires (grounded only at the engine side) direct from the cam sensor to the ecu input. The fix depends on what your coil pack setup is. I think you said you were using a stock type coil pack setup. If I remember right, the cam sync goes into or through the base part of the coil. That would mean a lot of things could be causing it. I've heard of needing a pull up resistor to increase the signal also.

Just log it first to see what's going on. If you're using a waste spark coil, you can always put the ecu in Bank to bank mode to ignore the cam sync for now.
 
Grounded crank and cam inductive inputs A3 & A4, no change, but then I hit each header tube with a Infrared gun and cyl. 6 is dead and 5 is not as hot as the others so it looks like my old coil pack is junk as well, even though it passed the testing outlined in the factory manual. So it appears to be ignition related, when AC Delco coil pack #3 arrives I'll try again and see if its runs. I'm gathering quite a pile of junk new parts just trying to start it.
 
They make a spark tester that has a thumbscrew that's adjustable that you can load the coil to test it against the other coils, this is whatI use and it works like a champ
 
No I own a shop and bought it from the snap on dealer but you might be able to buy one at a quality auto parts store, if you would like i could take a picture of it and post it
 
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