Time to go stage II with A/C!

[HighPSI]

I don't know how much re-wiring you did when you started having these problems. Have you verified the unused IPU inputs were grounded?

 

[norbs]

I don't know how much re-wiring you did when you started having these problems. Have you verified the unused IPU inputs were grounded?

I grounded them , they don;t come grounded in the caspers adapter box, as far as I can tell. This is the 1st time I removed the module with the XFI, I used to have it in the system for years, but it took up too much space. No one else has problems, in this config?

 

[norbs]

Havent read the whole thread just bits and pieces along the way. One thing I would check is the +- leads to any and all magnetic pickups in this system. If a MSD type mag pickup is wired with the wiring reveresed it will retard the timing!!
Last post you moved the timing to 40 Degrees??? If this has a distributor , did you re-check the phasing of the rotor to the poles of the cap?? Sorry toooooo many beers if Im totally out of line here!!! OUTTA here!!! Mike

MIke its a long and complicated thread, using stock crank sensor here nothing crazy, just took the DIS module out and the nightmare took fold.

 

[HighPSI]

No one else has problems, in this config?

Not that I'm aware of. I don't see any record of you purchasing anything from us. Did you make the adaptor harness yourself or purchase it elsewhere?

 

[norbs]

Not that I'm aware of. I don't see any record of you purchasing anything from us. Did you make the adaptor harness yourself or purchase it elsewhere?

I made something myself, but on a positive note, Iv;e got the crank trigger on and the timing is working and is within 2 degrees of my setting, however, its running like a tractor again, plugs are black, I cleaned them up , and the same thing. Disconnect inj#5 and the engine runs smoother, plug off inj #1 no change.........looks like I am back to injector problems, af is 13.5. Plug#1 looks dry and looks like it is firing same as #5.

CAM SYNC SET AT 80 BTDC
IPU MODE
REF 60
DELAY 40
.060 MSD TRIGGER GAP

 

[norbs]

Well kids we have another dead cyl #1 now is not firing, but it has spark..........plug is dry as a bone...

Here are the temps of cyl #1,3,5

Here is the full log for those interested...

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Tried swapping injectors?

 

[norbs]

Maybe tomorrow, my body can only take so much fumes in one day...im dizzy...

 

[lazaris]

Just removed all fancy gizmos' that adjust the timing, put 10 back in the reference angle, used a standard timing light, locked the timing in the XFI to 25 degrees and started it up..........timing shows about 0-2 degrees, so its retarded again, just like before, and its backfiring once in a while, shut it down before the plugs get washed out again.

Just a word of note my EST, and BYPASS wires are disconnected and heat shrinked , maybe this is my problem? I am not sure what the caspers adapter does with these wires. Or could this all be caused by the inductive delay being off as CAL was mentioning?

In the Caspers adapter module, you have to swap the green and red wire connectors when switching from coil pack ignition to a distributor.

 

[norbs]

In the Caspers adapter module, you have to swap the green and red wire connectors when switching from coil pack ignition to a distributor.

You are 100% correct, but it since I am using a hall effect cam sync and factory crank sensor, moving those wires results in grounding the cam hall input, which I dont want to do, but It could have had something to do with my problem, as I cant find any other reason for my timing to be messed up. ON another note my cam sync now shows 24 BTDC instead of 95 does that make sense to you. I installed it at 80 btdc.

 

[kidglok]

ON another note my cam sync now shows 24 BTDC instead of 95 does that make sense to you. I installed it at 80 btdc.

remember, it rolls over to zero after top dead center

 

[lazaris]

You are 100% correct, but it since I am using a hall effect cam sync and factory crank sensor, moving those wires results in grounding the cam hall input, which I dont want to do, but It could have had something to do with my problem, as I cant find any other reason for my timing to be messed up. ON another note my cam sync now shows 24 BTDC instead of 95 does that make sense to you. I installed it at 80 btdc.

Does that mean your using the distributor for cam input?

 

[norbs]

Does that mean your using the distributor for cam input?

Yes I am using the factory cam sensor mounted inside the distributor, with an adjustable collar. I have physically, seen the cam sensor light go on while moving the crank at 80 BTDC. I have a feeling the cam sync btdc is referencing it self from the time the crank sensor signal is seen..

 

[Cheeseburger]

Yes I am using the factory cam sensor mounted inside the distributor, with an adjustable collar.

Why??
With all the fancy do dads you have it's no wonder your having a constant battle with everything!

 

[norbs]

I do not like the IPU sensors they are too noise prone. I'm still going hall effect for crank and cam.

 

[lazaris]

Yes I am using the factory cam sensor mounted inside the distributor, with an adjustable collar. I have physically, seen the cam sensor light go on while moving the crank at 80 BTDC. I have a feeling the cam sync btdc is referencing it self from the time the crank sensor signal is seen..

Well I dont know about you, but when I ran a distributor and used the cam sync inside of it, I had to reverse the wires on the Caspers box as per the instructions.

 

[Cheeseburger]

Yes, C3-A3 and A6-A7

 

[norbs]

Well I dont know about you, but when I ran a distributor and used the cam sync inside of it, I had to reverse the wires on the Caspers box as per the instructions.

That is because your using an IPU type setup inside the distributor, its a 2 wire sensor, and reversing the wires puts you in the right input in the box for it , and at the same time grounds the hall effect cam input.

The IPU type signals voltage and frequency is dependant on rpm, the gap and the size of the magnet coil in the distributor. The fast triggers when the sine wave goes through the zero crossing point, but if you have other sources of interference, the signal may be above zero and could cause cause false trigging. IE something like noisy Ignition wires, etc.

A hall effect signal is either on or off, with nothing in between, that is why it is superior and its output voltage is the same at either 1 rpm, or 10000 rpm. but the draw back is noise can still get into the sensor power supply and mess thing's up, this is what happened to me with the false trigging. This was fixed with a simple capacitor to filter out the noise.

Old DFI boxes where limited in RPM since the IPU crank signal would get distorted and confuse the box...I think this was over 7000 rpm.

 

[Mike E]

The cam sync is very unlikely to have any effect. You could probably run it in bank to bank if your tune is close.

 

[norbs]

The cam sync is very unlikely to have any effect. You could probably run it in bank to bank if your tune is close.

That is true, but I still would like to keep my signals "clean". More important on the crank sensor input.