Time to go stage II with A/C!

[ttypewhite]

Norby, what's in the Timmies cup? You feeding that motor a latte? Lol

 

[norbs]

Norby, what's in the Timmies cup? You feeding that motor a latte? Lol

Lol, ya I need all the boost I can get.........Just a temporary catch can....

 

[norbs]

After further research the MSD crank trigger is shorted to ground inside the sensor causing havoc to my timing...


According to this picture no lead should be grounded to the case?

http://www.appliedracing.com/images/z017003.jpg

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

How's the AC working?

 

[norbs]

How's the AC working?

Its on hold for now until the dyno numbers roll in......Once I am satisfied with the numbers then I can concentrate on other things and enjoy things.

 

[norbs]

Update trying another set of 0280158040 injectors............Still waiting on the crank sensor to arrive.... Rewiring the volt booster to the fuel pump, and running more grounds to the block..

 

[norbs]

Holley Crank 554-118 sensor is here..........very nice IMHO......and I would like to personally thank Mike.E for steering me into the right direction to find this sensor...http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10633rev.pdf

 

[HighPSI]

Looks good. What type of wheel are you using to trigger it?

 

[Mike E]

Looks good. What type of wheel are you using to trigger it?

It's meant to work with an msd flying magnet wheel. Holley reccomends it with their ecu when using a flying magnet wheel.

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10633rev.pdf

 

[HighPSI]

The standard MSD trigger wheel is approx 1/2" thick. What are you doing about pulley spacing?

 

[norbs]

Its all custom made by a guy on the board, years ago, I don;t think he is in business anymore. It goes on top of the crank pulley... I can get some pics up soon...

 

[norbs]

Just to update everyone the holley crank sensor did not work, it appears the magnets in my wheel are not strong enough for it to create a signal.

 

[HighPSI]

I think if you search the web again , you will find another company that makes a hall effect setup that you can fabricate onto your engine. It might even be one that will work correctly for you. Hopefully shipping is faster than the Holley deal. If it's not, at least you will have time to fabricate the custom pickup bracketry.

I really can't see much of an advantage of that over stock. We made 1427hp @ 8200 rpm with a stock sensor this weekend

I don;t have to take the balancer off and re-clock it at my expense.with all the shipping etc..

At least you won't have to go through all the difficulties of removing the balancer and reclocking the stock reluctor

 

[norbs]

For now I have went back to the stock crank sensor, checked all wiring and grounds, all is good, timing is 23 degrees out at idle and out an additional 15 degrees at 3000 rpm. I think the box is bad, I do have a classic fast, but I cant use it since I dont know how to do the points output mod? I am in week 4-5 trying to get the timing right. The factory sensor should work????????? Here is a video of the stock crank sensor signal. You can listen to the motor and hear the timing is wacked..

 

[HighPSI]

Rotate the engine slowly by hand and stop when the crank light comes on. Let me know what the balancer location is

 

[norbs]

Rotate the engine slowly by hand and stop when the crank light comes on. Let me know what the balancer location is

That would be at 4 BTDC with 10 in the timing reference box.

 

[norbs]

I really do not understand how the fast can work in DIS mode with no module with the EST and BYPASS lines just floating with nothing attached, but no one else has this issue, so it must work?

 

[HighPSI]

That would be at 4 BTDC with 10 in the timing reference box.

Crank referance doesn't matter. The Crank light will flash when it receives a crank signal. Based on what you have told me, you should have DIS checked and the CRA should be 4 degrees

 

[HighPSI]

I really do not understand how the fast can work in DIS mode with no module with the EST and BYPASS lines just floating with nothing attached, but no one else has this issue, so it must work?

DIS is just the ignition strategy. It won't be using the bypass or EST wires. Your timing will be controlled by the XFI via the points wire to the ignition box. I assume you have the steadfast box disconnected and the MSD doesn't have any timing retards activated.