I do have DIS checked and I did move it to to 5 degrees and the timing stead of being above 23 degrees out it went to 17-18, but when you rev it up it still retards at least an additional 15 degrees or more, headers were glowing i had to stop.
Time to go stage II with A/C!
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The msd7al is analog has not retards on it.
Bypassed? You are 100% sure it can't cause any issues?
Just to be clear:
Your crank light flashes at around 5 degrees when rotating the crank by hand
Your safeguard is disconnected
Your cam sensor is disconnected
Your CRA is 5 degrees and DIS ignition is checked
Ignition box doesn't have any retards
You wired the crank signal directly to XFI pin A8
If all the above is true, then I would try swapping in a new XFI box. I have loaner boxes for our customers, but you would be better off borrowing one from a fellow Canadian
Just to be clear:
Your crank light flashes at around 5 degrees when rotating the crank by hand
Your safeguard is disconnected
Your cam sensor is disconnected
Your CRA is 5 degrees and DIS ignition is checked
Ignition box doesn't have any retards
You wired the crank signal directly to XFI pin A8
If all the above is true, then I would try swapping in a new XFI box. I have loaner boxes for our customers, but you would be better off borrowing one from a fellow Canadian
The software is what usually dictates "user friendly". IMO: the Electromotive is lacking there. Norbs is having a timing issue that I have never come across and we are trying to solve it. I have dozens of customers who have swapped to a distributor from the stock CCCI ignition and never had any real issues. We sell an adaptor setup that makes it plug and play and you can use the stock crank and cam sensors in the stock locations. Can't get much easier than that.
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Plug-n-play...easier. I can see Norbs cringing. 
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Norbs If you want to swing out one night this week our this weekend. Bring your box and I'll plug it in my car and check it with the timing light, if you can't find someone closer that will help you out. I'm about an hour away. You can check out the coil on plug setup too and maybe you'll wanna switch.
Brandon.
Brandon.
The CCCI dead end connector is not being used, but the caspers adapter box yes is used.
Thanks, but I found someone closer, If its not the box its some wiring problem, I have yet to find.
Thanks, but I found someone closer, If its not the box its some wiring problem, I have yet to find.
Did you swap the the red and green wires?
And you want me to put EFI on my junk!! I would have committed suicide by now!! NO I would have gone back to my simple (minded) approach. OMG I cant believe this. SO Sorry!!! Mike
You wouldn't have had this many problems. Norbs, is a guy who likes to do his own things in his own way. Nothing wrong with that, just tougher to sort out. Especially when he is getting his answers from the internet. I mean no disrespect.
This is correct, I am always experimenting with things, even though it may not be the easiest way. Next step is to take a module and measure the current though the crank and cam sensors and see what the calculated value of the pull up resistor works out to be in theory..I know the 2.2k should work for the crank, but not sure on the cam sensor. Brandon thanks for the offer, but I have someone closer is going to help me out, but I have a feeling I might solve it with the resistors..
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