Went To The Track Today......

[TType84]

been there brad. my car is in the garage at my grandparents house just sitting there for the day i have enough disposable income to fix it and fix it right.

the most tempermental son of a bitch ever, the last straw was doing god knows what damage (never even pulled it apart..) after ****ting all the oil out because the oil drain tube decided to blow up.

some day i will yank the motor, build it right and put a DFI of some kind on it, i am fed up with the stock bull**** setup and not going to waste my time anymore.

good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[Boost231]

Brad, I can't see your signature on my phone but are you running roller rockers? Can't remember what cam setup you are running but I know sometimes that will set it off. I at one point was going to just disconnect the knock sensor and say fug it.

 

[TType84]

Brad, I can't see your signature on my phone but are you running roller rockers? Can't remember what cam setup you are running but I know sometimes that will set it off. I at one point was going to just disconnect the knock sensor and say fug it.

85GN, TA33C Turbo, ported and matched intake and heads, 42.5 lbs blue stripe injectors, Poston exhaust headers, Hooker high flow 2 1/2 exhaust, Walbro 340 fuel pump hot wired, test pipe, 2 1/2 inch integrated downpipe(no turbo elbow), F-Body rad. dual ramchargers, 87 ECM-Wide Band Turbo tweak chip, Razor Alky kit. Scanmater, LS1 MAF with Translator, BLM of 128 at idle. Trans oil cooler with a 2800 stall conv with lockup, oil cooler. Mickey Thompson drag radials. Ported throttle body. HRPARTSNSTUFF motor mounts. Powerlogger with wide band o2 sensor.

doesnt look like it

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Brent and Nick-Boost231 and 84TTPE-Thanks but my signature is correct.
I made alot of mistakes and learned a few things along the way.

Hind sight is always 20/20. Novaderrick is right on. Brad

P.S. Should have put a 455 big block buick with a carb. on the front end. This would have solved knock knock-no TT chip, no powerlogger, Blah Blah.

 

[Boost231]

Sale it to me


J/k

 

[cwmccray]

Brad
I put my car down during my MBA, nasty separation from "Baby Mama" and it is still in pieces. Put a car cover over it and sit..... JERRYL, COOL84, BRENT and others feel your pain.... Leeo may have hit on something.... if it is knocking, the ESC could be bad.... DO NOT PART IT OUT..... We have all been to the EDGE.... Pull back Brother...

Start slowly turn down booost... slow don alky... read the WB.... loose parts could cause a false knock.... Take the Summer off and think about... how it came down to the knock...

Set it back to stock boost, with minimal alky and start slowly... You chip may need a upgrade....

WHEN ONE HOT AIR CRY'S.... WE ALL CRY:frown: :frown:

 

[boostmaster]

Knock, Knock

Brad don't take this the wrong way OK. But if there is any lesson learned at all from this is........spending more money will not overcome the basic principles of a properly running engine or engine control system. No matter how much you spend one basic concept always prevails.......when all is said and done go back to the basics I'm sure you missed something along the way and tried to cover up the real problem with a new bottle of snake oil. That never works and never will. Plus if I recall your the guy that said he wasn't interested in time slips so why you getting all bent out of shape now?

Now what I would have done first is turn the boost down to maybe 15psi, killed the alky and ran it for knock. Then if no knock slowly turn the boost up til I tickle the knock meter. If you could run 15 psi with race fuel fairly lean without knock and you increase to 18 psi without alky and get knock then you know for sure that there is a mechanical or electronic issue. Could be fuel pump to weak, could be loosing vacuum to the regulator. Or maybe a bad head job I've seen some bad jobs that will make your engine ping like a diesel. Or it could be as mentioned a bad ECM, bad cam sensor timing, bad maf calibration ( just because it's new doesn't mean it' calibrated right). I've seen pleanty of cars that had the target BLM's at 128 yada,yada,yada and idle smooth as a babies a** but can't WOT for s**t because a lot of other things in the mix are incorrect and that may be your problem. What I am saying is always double check your double check and don't get caught up on what something should run. Get caught up on getting it there.

Arggggg!!!! Hot Air Guys gotta love em'.

Here's a little story for you the first time I was ever in the 12's took me at least 6 blown pistons and a more than (8) 13.00's and you know what I owe that to....... a pin whole in the vacuum line at the fuel pressure regulator. Seems under boost it was blowing through the pin hole instead of putting pressure on the regulator. Just like you I was getting serious knock no matter what I did at anything over 17psi. If it wasn't for a chance occurance I would have never found it. New pistons, back to the track and bam 12's and never looked back.

Don't give up and don't spend anymore money take your time and find the problem. You've got the right tools use them or get help from someone who can help you. When I was slow I didn't care who laughed and that I was the only Hot Air........guess what they aint laughing no more.:biggrin:

 

[esinger]

Lots of good advice here Brad! Walk away for a while if you need to but get back to it and figure it out. Your low timing (16 degrees) through the entire run really is the thing that bothers me the most. That may be okay for low octane gas, but race gas with alky? As already said, lower the boost down from 18 to 15 and start messing around with timing, fueling and see how the car reacts.

 

[boostmaster]

Lots of good advice here Brad! Walk away for a while if you need to but get back to it and figure it out. Your low timing (16 degrees) through the entire run really is the thing that bothers me the most. That may be okay for low octane gas, but race gas with alky? As already said, lower the boost down from 18 to 15 and start messing around with timing, fueling and see how the car reacts.

Without the alky of coarse. One thing to note, there is such a thing as rich knock. With low timing, low boost and 2 slow burning fuels your just asking for trouble. Just start over no alky, boost about 15psi, fp @ 43-45psi, timing about 18* log the run see if you get knock. No knock tuning issue, knock electrical or mechanical issue. Don't overlook anything. One thing that is most common and most overlooked is incorrect cam sensor timing. Most people think that just because the vehicle runs it must be okay. This is farthest from the truth it could be a few degrees off or it could be 180* out and the car would still run because it's waste spark. What most people don't understand is the most important, it affects fuel timing. That would be the first simple thing I would check and everything else afterwards.

 

[turbojitsu85]

Without the alky of coarse. One thing to note, there is such a thing as rich knock. With low timing, low boost and 2 slow burning fuels your just asking for trouble. Just start over no alky, boost about 15psi, fp @ 43-45psi, timing about 18* log the run see if you get knock. No knock tuning issue, knock electrical or mechanical issue. Don't overlook anything. One thing that is most common and most overlooked is incorrect cam sensor timing. Most people think that just because the vehicle runs it must be okay. This is farthest from the truth it could be a few degrees off or it could be 180* out and the car would still run because it's waste spark. What most people don't understand is the most important, it affects fuel timing. That would be the first simple thing I would check and everything else afterwards.

Brad don't give up the few times I talked with you over the winter you werevery proud of your car as well youshould be. I dealt with a bad cam sensor being 180* out for a year while I replaced parts chasing the problem down before I figured it out. My point being it could be something real simple don't give up. But if you are going to part it out I'll take the powerlogger j/k

 

[racemybuick]

But if you are going to part it out I'll take the powerlogger j/k

lol....too funny!


brad....fix your cam sensor already!!!! lol



john

 

[O SO LO]

Hi Brad- Don't give up!! I've enjoyed the emails, phone calls and info you have given me. I haven't been by my car for a couple weeks, and will be a couple more weeks before I get trans back--he uses it as fill in work to save me a few bucks :redface:, so maybe that is a good thing. Did a bunch of work to car this past winter and now can't drive it!! Anyway, we all get frustrated and need to take a breather now and then, maybe a couple others could meet with you later and help you out. :smile: Take care...

 

[SloGN]

Brad


just walk away for a bit. With the down time it will allow you sometime to think things over and you will find your problem.

 

[turbonut85]

Step back and relax bud. Every TR has it's own set of gremlins...i think you and I even talked about them at the track on Saturday. You gotta hang in there...you will find those little bastards eventually.

 

[ttaowner]

Not Positive But I Thought I Read Somewhere That The Hr Motor Mounts Could Cause Knock? I Am I Wrong? Not Sure If I Read If It Was From Overtightening Or Not Tight Enough?

 

[Boost231]

The only thing you can do is make a check list and go part by part and see if it fixes it or not. I think gnttype has a list of what causes knock. I was going to do this but just didn't have time. I'm sure people on the board will help with switching out good parts to see if it fixes it. Hell just pay shipping and I'm sure people would help. Anyways keep your head up I was there but for some reason my xfi fixed the problem. Only things I tryed was a new chip,ecm,maf, and still got knock

 

[HvyMtlV6]

Hey Brad,
I can understand your frustrations, I'm sure alot of guys here on the board have had their moments, but what really seperates us from the rest is we all try to stay true in what we have and what we believe in, I can test to that, there have been alot of times where I've wanted to just throw it all in and say "screw it", till this day, I'm still working on my car, I'm just as frustrated, cause I miss driving my car, but I know in my heart, I'll get it to run again someday . I've been on this board for awhile, I've seen alot of guys come and go, from what I've notice in the deciding factor is how deep ones pockets are, we all have our priorities, nothing new in that, just have to respect ones situation, things happen and just have to pick and choose and go on from there. Alot of us have set goals as to what they want of or from our cars, some more than others, thats reality. You and alot of other guys here on the board (Jerryl, Brent, Lee, Jamie, John, etc....) have come along way and accomplished alot, it doesn't matter how long you've been on the board, but what you have done, what you have gain and most what you have given back to the board trully says alot about a person, I have faith in you my brother, quote on quote as the others have said, take some time off, come back and just reaccess the situation, Take Care & God Bless

Joe C.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Thanks for all the input and support. I will have time off because I rear ended a Jeep the other day. Started raining(MTdo not like rain)and could not stop in time. I can post a PIC if interested. Header panel, bumper, hood and passenger front fender. This will be a much needed break. I have great collector car insurance with zero deductible and a $19,000 totaled payout. The car will most likely be fixed. I drove the car home.

The knock knock knock problem is still there and I have the list if anyone wants it. This list is here under www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick/188574-knock-knock.html. Page down to Suicide Six comments. I will take Lee Thompson advice and check the ESC module. This module is on the list at number two but I ignored the ESC issue. My own stupidity. The ESC controls the knock sensor signal to the ECM. The ESC module is located on the passenger side fender by the MAP. Some idiot(me) could have disturbed something by the ESC when installing the Alky kit. I smell something bad with the ESC. The shop manuel is very specific about testing the ESC and even I can do it. The ESC costs $112 new. I will swap out to a used one first. Enough for now. Brad

 

[Jerryl]

Thanks for all the input and support. I will have time off because I rear ended a Jeep the other day. Started raining(MTdo not like rain)and could not stop in time. I can post a PIC if interested. Header panel, bumper, hood and passenger front fender. This will be a much needed break. I have great collector car insurance with zero deductible and a $19,000 totaled payout. The car will most likely be fixed. I drove the car home. . . . .

HS Batman!!
Glad you are OK. (Sounds like you are)
Post pics . . . .

 

[esinger]

Holy Cow! I thought you were going to throw a cover on it.

Glad your okay!