Breather Smoke New Build

[mtocrs1]

Just fired up the new engine and let it run for a 1/2 hour or so. I am getting some blow by gasses out of the valve cover breathers. I am thinking it's just that the rings aren't seated yet. Has anyone else experienced this?
How long should it normally take for the rings to seat themselves?


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[cruzn57]

IF, you do not have the PCV hooked up, you will have blow by !
that what the PCV does.
no rings seal 100 % , you will always have some blow by,
but it should decrease quickly, DO NOT let it idle for any length of time,
best way to break it in..... drive it!

 

[earlbrown]

If you've ran the engine for 1/2 with no load, there's a very good chance they will never seat fully.


What type of top ring do you have and what was the final honing grit on your cylinders? also, did you torque up the mains and motor mounts with a torque plate when honing?

 

[mtocrs1]

IF, you do not have the PCV hooked up, you will have blow by !
that what the PCV does.
no rings seal 100 % , you will always have some blow by,
but it should decrease quickly, DO NOT let it idle for any length of time,
best way to break it in..... drive it!

Well the PCV is hooked up. Only reason I idled it was to check and fill all fluids. Just making sure everything is ok.


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[mtocrs1]

If you've ran the engine for 1/2 with no load, there's a very good chance they will never seat fully.


What type of top ring do you have and what was the final honing grit on your cylinders? also, did you torque up the mains and motor mounts with a torque plate when honing?

I'm note sure on the questions you asked. Had the short block built locally. I can't believe idle ing the engine would have a negative effect on the rings seating.
During the idle I would raise engine rpm and such.


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[larrym]

Take it out and load it to seat the rings.

 

[earlbrown]

I'm note sure on the questions you asked. Had the short block built locally. I can't believe idle ing the engine would have a negative effect on the rings seating.
During the idle I would raise engine rpm and such.

It will.


Ask whoever built the short block what final finish they put on the cylinders. If they left a rough finish and you're running moly faced rings, they moly is now gone and stuck in the oil filter. Without loading the rings all it does the cause the cyl to ring seal to glaze over and that's the best the engine will ever have.

On a flat tappet cam (that belongs in a museum not an engine) you have no choice but to give it 20 minutes of no-load time. On a roller engine, it needs to pointed down the road on initial fire.

 

[mtocrs1]

It will.


Ask whoever built the short block what final finish they put on the cylinders. If they left a rough finish and you're running moly faced rings, they moly is now gone and stuck in the oil filter. Without loading the rings all it does the cause the cyl to ring seal to glaze over and that's the best the engine will ever have.

On a flat tappet cam (that belongs in a museum not an engine) you have no choice but to give it 20 minutes of no-load time. On a roller engine, it needs to pointed down the road on initial fire.

Well that sucks. If this is as good as it gets I'm selling the thing. I have had enough. I will blast it down the road once or twice and see what happens first. Keep your eye out for a really nice white T in the for sale section

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[mtocrs1]

I just checked and they are sealed power moly rings


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[delcowizzid]

if its a flat tappet cam it should be run above 2000rpm for 20 minutes right from the moment it first starts no idling .i dont even let them idle under 1000rpm for the first week.after cams run in dump oil and filter refill and go for a decient drive under load with no decelerating after 20 miles she be ready to thrash change oil again after 500 miles

 

[Phoneguy]

Throw some boost at it, it will help seal the rings.

Bryan

 

[earlbrown]

Kick the shit out of it. Full throttle for 5 seconds, decell for 10.....


....do that five times and that's as good of a ring seal as you're ever going to get.


After that enjoy the car.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

W/dyno: 10% load for 20 min. Check for leaks, pressures. It's HAMMER time!
W/o dyno: What Earl said. Preliminary warm up @ rpm, check for leaks, SKIN'r back!
If there are no black marks on the street, then the break in is incomplete.

 

[mtocrs1]

Thanks guys.
I need to get the tie rod adjusters locked down and the toe eyeballed in and then I will give it hell.
Hopefully it clears up some. I will report back in a couple days.
Between the kids t ball and swim lessons I don't have any garage time during the week.


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[vacuum 6]

As long as the engine making power who cares about blow-by. Change oil more often.

My last motor had a lot of blow-by (pushing dip stick up) and it still ran 124.xx thru the traps.

 

[mtocrs1]

As long as the engine making power who cares about blow-by. Change oil more often.

My last motor had a lot of blow-by (pushing dip stick up) and it still ran 124.xx thru the traps.

I guess that's one way to approach things.


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[earlbrown]

I wonder what the trap speed would have been if that blow-by was turning the tires instead of pressuring the crankcase?

 

[vacuum 6]

2-3 mph more. After the dipstick "issue" the crankcase was vented nicely. Only issue, couldn't get more boost after 26#.

.

 

[bison]

I wonder what the trap speed would have been if that blow-by was turning the tires instead of pressuring the crankcase?

Probably 124.xx. I've seen these engines blow oil all over and still make 100+hp per hole with less than what you typically see posted here today. Then figuring the engines would pick up a bunch of power fixing leak down due to valves leaking (which they will do in anything that puts a lot of heat into the ex) and leak down reduction i was shocked to see nothing. Not even 5whp. More than a few. Even with increased Displacement they didn't pick up much at all. On an NA engine these things would add up to a lot of power. On turbocharged engines it doesn't matter much at all.


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[earlbrown]

That was actually tongue in cheek a little. We can get away with a lot of swag on these cars. Worn engines, leaky rings, etc... can all me 'adjusted out' by turning a wastegate rod. If you're losing cylinder pressure to the oil pan, just throw some more boost to it N/A's defiantly don't have that option.


given a choice, I'd still rather keep my oil change intervals long and my dipsticks unclamped.