NVU gauge cluster installation.

[87GNSteve]

Question for you guys running the Caspers dash connector, on Position 15 [C1-M] on the "Yellow Dot" Board is a feed from the GAGES Fuse POS+ Feed - are you guys using the same feed from Position 1 [C1-A] (Red Dot Board) or are you doing something else….. sorry if this has been mentioned before.

thanks
aaron

The factory dash used both pnk/blk POS this dash only one. The Analog dash has a 3rd pnk/blk POS at the C2 if you need power to the gauge senders for example.
I am using the wire on the yllow dot board to run the resistor between that 15M and the brown alt wire to stimulate the circuit so the alternator charges.

 

[Good2win22]

That led is a dual lights with 2 wires so I assume that means when it is red it is one polarity and then it switches polarity to indicate green.
I was just going to use the extra installed warning (!) light for the red indicator on the alky kit; it is a little extra wiring back and forth but shouldnt be an issue.

That's not a bad idea... I was thinking that putting the alky light up by the boost would take away from the the whole "factory look" but I've become really accustomed to seeing that little red/green light when I step down on the throttle. I'll call NVU tomorrow and see if there would be any problems if I drilled the dash. Does anybody have a better idea for a location for that light? I already removed the a-pillar gauge pod.... I guess I could get another gauge and put that pod back up with the alky light. Maybe a fuel pressure gauge....

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

The factory dash used both pnk/blk POS this dash only one. The Analog dash has a 3rd pnk/blk POS at the C2 if you need power to the gauge senders for example.
I am using the wire on the yllow dot board to run the resistor between that 15M and the brown alt wire to stimulate the circuit so the alternator charges.

Thanks for the clarification .... I am about to set the boards in the plug and want to make sure I have it all together. I will probably just solder a wire on just in case and tape it off.

 

[87GNSteve]

That's not a bad idea... I was thinking that putting the alky light up by the boost would take away from the the whole "factory look" but I've become really accustomed to seeing that little red/green light when I step down on the throttle. I'll call NVU tomorrow and see if there would be any problems if I drilled the dash. Does anybody have a better idea for a location for that light? I already removed the a-pillar gauge pod.... I guess I could get another gauge and put that pod back up with the alky light. Maybe a fuel pressure gauge....

You could drill a hole in the bezel that goes over the dash. I did that with my low level light on an earlier car. Need to be a little creative tucking the wires in but no biggie. The new NVU dash has the green INJ light next ot the boost gauge for that reason,

 

[captndave737]

BTW guys who have their kits installed how did you address the resistor installation? Did anyone call tech about it?

I installed the resistor between pins 1(A) and 3(c) on the C1 connector. That's the pink/black and brown wires.

 

[captndave737]

I did not get that, guess I need to call Mark. Thank you for your reply

I didn't think I got one either but it looks like just a 6"piece of wire with some heat shrink on the middle. The resistor was under the heat shrink and is tiny.

 

[captndave737]

On another note... I am running alky and have a turn on light that turns red when the system arms and then green when it is spraying. I had this light mounted next to my boost gauge on the a-pillar before the NVU dash. I was thinking of installing it in the new dash next to the new boost gauge but I am bit worried about drilling a hole in the new dash. With lights already sandwiched in between the 3 piece dash, I'm concerned I might mess the back lighting up. Any thoughts?

You could use the extra (!) icon for armed and the alcy icon for spray. The armed icon wouldn't be next to the boost gauge though.

 

[1952ray]

I installed the resistor between pins 1(A) and 3(c) on the C1 connector. That's the pink/black and brown wires.

Just trying to ease my confused mind. C1 pink/black to C3 brown wire is wired together. With the resistor in between Nothing to the dash inself?

 

[captndave737]

On another note... I am running alky and have a turn on light that turns red when the system arms and then green when it is spraying. I had this light mounted next to my boost gauge on the a-pillar before the NVU dash. I was thinking of installing it in the new dash next to the new boost gauge but I am bit worried about drilling a hole in the new dash. With lights already sandwiched in between the 3 piece dash, I'm concerned I might mess the back lighting up. Any thoughts?

You could use the extra (!) icon for armed and the alcy icon for spray. The armed icon wouldn't be next to the boost gauge though.

Just trying to ease my confused mind. C1 pink/black to C3 brown wire is wired together. With the resistor in between Nothing to the dash inself?

That's what I did and the alternator works fine. That being said my battery icon stays on all the time and I haven't figured it out yet.

 

[captndave737]

I have 3 issues.
First is the gauges are way too dim especially the speedo and tach. I've tried the white, the amber and both together! Mark said they changed the faces because they were getting complaints that they were too bright! He said they could probably make new faces but I'd need a dimmer switch which I already have.

Second, my battery icon stays on when the car is running. The Alternator is putting out 14V. Anyone have a fix?

Third, my oil pressure reads 40 psi with the engine off and key on, 0 psi with the key off and up to 90 psi while driving. Solution?

 

[Good2win22]

I have 3 issues.
First is the gauges are way too dim especially the speedo and tach. I've tried the white, the amber and both together! Mark said they changed the faces because they were getting complaints that they were too bright! He said they could probably make new faces but I'd need a dimmer switch which I already have.

Second, my battery icon stays on when the car is running. The Alternator is putting out 14V. Anyone have a fix?

Third, my oil pressure reads 40 psi with the engine off and key on, 0 psi with the key off and up to 90 psi while driving. Solution?

Battery icon... Maybe have a switched 12v positive going to the battery icon? Have you programmed the volt meter gauge? I didn't have a battery icon until I programmed the low and high points on the voltmeter. I set the low at 12.5 and the high at 15 so the icon would illuminate and the dial would flash when starting the engine and go back off after the engine was started.

I would ask NVU for a new oil pressure sender. That just sounds all jacked up... How was the oil pressure before the gauge install?

 

[1952ray]

I have 3 issues.
First is the gauges are way too dim especially the speedo and tach. I've tried the white, the amber and both together! Mark said they changed the faces because they were getting complaints that they were too bright! He said they could probably make new faces but I'd need a dimmer switch which I already have.

Second, my battery icon stays on when the car is running. The Alternator is putting out 14V. Anyone have a fix?

Third, my oil pressure reads 40 psi with the engine off and key on, 0 psi with the key off and up to 90 psi while driving. Solution?

Really sounds like the oil pressure sending unit is bad. I would call Mark and have him send another one. I can see where 40psi driving would be right

 

[captndave737]

Battery icon... Maybe have a switched 12v positive going to the battery icon? Have you programmed the volt meter gauge? I didn't have a battery icon until I programmed the low and high points on the voltmeter. I set the low at 12.5 and the high at 15 so the icon would illuminate and the dial would flash when starting the engine and go back off after the engine was started.

I would ask NVU for a new oil pressure sender. That just sounds all jacked up... How was the oil pressure before the gauge install?

I have programmed the upper and lower limits on the voltmeter and it had no affect on the icon.

Pressure was 20 at idle and 55 at wot before. I thought it might be the sender.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

I have 3 issues.

Third, my oil pressure reads 40 psi with the engine off and key on, 0 psi with the key off and up to 90 psi while driving. Solution?

Did you use teflon tape or compound? could be the sender is not getting a good ground……. maybe.


aaron

 

[captndave737]

Did you use teflon tape or compound? Good be the sender is getting a good ground……. maybe.


aaron

I used compound.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

I used compound.

Maybe clean it off and just put a small amount on threads near the back... So the majority is clean metal

 

[captndave737]

I didn't put much on but I'll give it a try. I'm sending my gauges back to have the backlighting brightened up and they are going to check the gauge but I'm pretty sure it's a sender issue. I'm going to hook up my old gauge quickly to see.

 

[1952ray]

I didn't put much on but I'll give it a try. I'm sending my gauges back to have the backlighting brightened up and they are going to check the gauge but I'm pretty sure it's a sender issue. I'm going to hook up my old gauge quickly to see.

The sender that NVU sent, will only work with their gauges. It is calibrated diff..that's why my old sender for the VDO oil gauge I had would not work with NVU gauge

 

[Good2win22]

Spoke with NVU today about drilling the dash for the Alky red/green LED. He said no problem with drilling the dash but suggested that I remove the LED that is in the current power injection spot and replace it with the dual color LED from the Alky kit. He said that the dash is clear and gets its color from the color of the LED that is illuminating the icon.

Not sure if I'm going to do this as the alky kit has three lights. One for low fluid, one for power injection and the one light in question that shows the pump arming and then spraying from the signal that the MAP is giving the Alky control box. I'd be one light short ....

He also said that I would have to sand the top of the LED to get it to sit flush in the dash... Leaning towards drilling the dash next to the boost gauge and adding the associated wiring to the empty slots into one of the plugs

 

[jpratt]

Leaning towards drilling the dash next to the boost gauge and adding the associated wiring to the empty slots into one of the plugs

I like this idea and will probably also got this route.