Powermaster to Hydroboost conversion

[BOP4ever]

I am starting my conversion and have a question and maybe I missed it on the thread. I took the clip and washer off the PM brake pedal rod, but I can not get the push rod off the stud that goes through the pedal. How best to handle this problem ? I hope I don't have to take the pedal loose at the pivot.
Do I wait till I get the PM loose and can tilt the unit after all the nuts are off under the dash ? I think I'll go get those hoses instead of making new ones up, thanks for the tip. I did not know the hot air parts would work on the 87 as far as hose routing.

 

[jdpolzin]

I am starting my conversion and have a question and maybe I missed it on the thread. I took the clip and washer off the PM brake pedal rod, but I can not get the push rod off the stud that goes through the pedal. How best to handle this problem ? I hope I don't have to take the pedal loose at the pivot.
Do I wait till I get the PM loose and can tilt the unit after all the nuts are off under the dash ? I think I'll go get those hoses instead of making new ones up, thanks for the tip. I did not know the hot air parts would work on the 87 as far as hose routing.

I usually take it lose at the pivot point. It's not fun but it saves a lot of hassle and time in the long run.

 

[27Skulls]

removal PM

Easiest way to remove the unit is to first, depressurize the unit, disconnect all wiring harness, remove fluid from MC, remove two nuts, get good grip on PM unit and pull hard and away from firewall which separates the pedal rod. Then the fun begins under the dash.:biggrin:

 

[27Skulls]

powermaster

Sorry, under the dash; no sweat, I thought you were going with vacuum.:redface:

 

[BOP4ever]

I have the 4 nuts off and the clip loose so can I just drained the MC and take everything loose and pull the sucker leaving the pushrod attached to the pedal to deal with ???? I figured the rod was solid in the booster and would not just pop out....

Thanks

 

[turbonut85]

Don't pull the rod loose from the booster, it's not necessary. If you just take a little time, and have a freind hold the PM at an angle toward the pass side fender, you can pop the rod off the pin on the pedal with a decent sized screwdriver....remember, you will have to put the HB rod in the same way....Good luck. ---Keith

 

[1quick6]

I looked everywhere for a good T to use for the return line. Lowes and Home Depot didn't have a brass T, but they did have plastic. The inside diameter seemed too small, at least that was my opinion.

I went to Advance Auto and found what I wanted in the Help section. The guy at the counter poked through his drawers of fittings and claimed they didn't make a brass one that size. Good thing I was bored and browsing. I'm sure plastic would have been ok, but I wanted Chinese brass.

 

[1quick6]

Does anyone have a picture of the locking pin for the actuator to pedal? Mine didn't have one, which is kind of scary. It was quite easy to disengage the pedal from the actuator, needless to say. Unless there isn't anything locking it on? On mine, there was just a stud on the pedal that I slid the eyelet of the actuator rod off. Nothing "locking" it in place. Maybe I'm looking for something that isn't there.

 

[1quick6]

Sorry, but I forgot to ask, the MC had some black o-rings in the box. Are these needed? I didn't actually see them until after I had bench bled the MC. Getting closer. I am going to have to tweak the front brake line because it is about 3" off.

 

[BOP4ever]

Hey can someone tell me which line on the master is the front brakes ? Is it the smaller or the larger diameter one?
1987 GN .

Thanks

 

[1quick6]

Well, my project is taking much longer than I thought. I was doing great until I went to bleed the brakes. One rear wheel had a stripped bleeder screw, so I had to put a new wheel cylinder in. I didn't realize you can't get a 5/16 brake bleeder wrench on the rear bleeders. I ended up just taking a 5/16 deep well socket and fed aquarium tubing through it. Opens and closes of the bleeder are done with vise grips on the socket. Is there a real tool for these bleeders or can you get longer bleeders so the nut is outside of the confining space?

I am going to wait a few days before continuing. I still have to bleed the system out since I got set back a few hours with the wheel cylinders. Then, I'll plumb the power steering/booster lines.

 

[charlief1]

It's actually an 8mm not a 5/16". They make off set wrenches to bleed them.

As far as the brake lines, the larger one is for the front brakes.

 

[turbonut85]

Actually, the smaller one is for the front. They are oriented opposite in the master for the HB than the PM. You have to bend them so the will fit.

 

[1quick6]

I am not going to work on mine for a few days, so I ordered some Russell speed bleeders for the front and back from Summit Racing. I'm just going to pop them on and let them help me out. I think I will get things all worked out eventually. I always have to remind myself that I am working on a 23 year old car and setbacks are bound to happen.

BTW, with these speed bleeders, would you just attach a hose and pop open the bleeder and go? What is the proper pedal action with speed bleeders? I assume it is depress almost to the floor, hold, release, wait 15 seconds and repeat. Close the bleeder when done.

 

[Abomb]

1Quick6, I used speed bleeders on the front when I did my conversion. I wish I would have had them for the back too......would have been nice. Anyways they will come with instructions, mine I had to tighten then back out a certain amount, bleed and then tighten again. Real simple and easy. I used a mighty vac (actually a harbor freight cheap one) so I am not sure about the pedal deal. I did not have a helper so the mighty vac made it real nice.

Regarding you earlier post about the pedal/rod deal I know mine had a cotter pin and I believe a washer on there as well.

Also when you get to the pressure lines the one to the power steering pump was by far the toughest for me. If I remember right I had to remove my air inlet pipe, the intercooler bracket on that side (stock mount), and the serpentine belt. I think I had to feed the line in behind the power steering bracket kind of over the pump and on. I couldn't get the threads to start at all and kind of had to tap down on the fitting to get it to seat in there. Probably not the best way because i was afraid of cross threading it but I lucked out and they tightened up correctly. Anyways good luck maybe some of this will help. Also my pump took forever to quite down so don't freak out if it's noisy it should get better with time.

 

[Abomb]

Oh, and as for the o-rings that came with your MC I have no idea.... neither of the ones I bought had those....And I got my brass t from the help section as well, I also had wasted a bunch of time at home depot looking for one

 

[1quick6]

Thanks for the tips, Abomb. I already have the alternator, tensioner and stuff out of the car, so I should have decent access to the pump. My speed bleeders should be in today or tomorrow, so I just have to bleed, run the three lines to the booster, get things back together and bleed the hydro. I am crossing my fingers because I have spent more hours on this than I had planned and I want to get back on the road. Murphy's Law has been present at every turn on this one.

 

["Turbo-T"]

If I may ask what's the purpose of the speed bleeders? Are they necessary? Should I get them for my car?

 

[1quick6]

If I may ask what's the purpose of the speed bleeders? Are they necessary? Should I get them for my car?

Speed bleeders replace the stock bleeder screws on the wheel cylinders and calipers. They have a check valve built in so that they do not let air in while bleeding. The net result is you eliminate having to open and close the bleeder valve dozens of times while bleeding. Also, they already have thread sealant on them, so if you bleed with a vacuum pump you are done in 1/4 the time. I think they are well worth the $20 for the four.

The part numbers are:
Russell Speed Bleeder
Fronts are PN 639580 - 10mm
Rears are PN 639520 - 8mm

Summit Racing and Jegs have them for cheap. Napa might have them locally but they will be twice the price of the aforementioned outlets.

My HB project will be done today with any luck. I will have pictures.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Thanks for the tips, Abomb. I already have the alternator, tensioner and stuff out of the car, so I should have decent access to the pump. My speed bleeders should be in today or tomorrow, so I just have to bleed, run the three lines to the booster, get things back together and bleed the hydro. I am crossing my fingers because I have spent more hours on this than I had planned and I want to get back on the road. Murphy's Law has been present at every turn on this one.

Just an FYI: I removed everything you have taken off and I still had to remove the pump to get the pressure line installed. It's really tight in there, take you time and be patient, the end result is worth it.