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Powermaster to Hydroboost conversion

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I think I am about to do this conversion because my Powermaster just plain sucks. But I had a few questions.

Do you have to bend or reform the lines going into the master cylinder or will just tugging on them make them fit?

It also looks like the whole unit makes the brakes stick farther forward...does that interfere with reaching the header bolts or spark plugs any?

Great write ups though guys can't wait to start on mine!

I didn't have to bend anything. Just remember that the lines swap places on the new master cylinder.

It does sit farther forward, but it I haven't encountered any problems. My MC is about 5mm away from the power steering reservoir cap.
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I think if it were me, I'd do the S10 cylinders and "cheapo" softer shoes. It is a cake job as long as your brake lines disconnect easily. For now, try adjusting them with a good old brake spoon.
I dunno if it the difference between using the 84-85 unit and using the astrovan truck unit but mine hold boost like crazy i did my first ever 10 psi foot brake launch(also first time owning drag radials)with brand new mickey dr freshly warmed up at a stoplight and damn near yanked my fillings out of my teeth!!! :eek::cool::cool:

Ive read from others that they had to take the s10 stuff off because the rear brakes were locking before the fronts..Tin man the originator of the conversion broke his input shaft in his driveway when he boosted it to 17 psi and the hydroboost held strong :eek: ...I say all this to say your issue may be elsewhere and adding S10 stuff is prolly a bandaid and a mistake....
 
I have all the stuff on order. The hydrobooster from online then I have a new P/S pump and the rest of the crap on order from work. One question came into my mind though, what do I do with the connectors and wiring for the powermaster?
 
I'm sorry I worded that wrong,
what I ment to say is if I'm running manual steering how would I run the lines to the hydroboost? Or does it really matter?
 
I have all the stuff on order. The hydrobooster from online then I have a new P/S pump and the rest of the crap on order from work. One question came into my mind though, what do I do with the connectors and wiring for the powermaster?

Just take some electrical tape and cover the ends of the two harnesses and tuck them away out of sight...they are no longer needed.

I'm sorry I worded that wrong,
what I ment to say is if I'm running manual steering how would I run the lines to the hydroboost? Or does it really matter?

I am not sure how you would make this booster function with manual steering. It operates as kind of a loop system...pressure goes from the pump to the booster, then from the booster to the steering gearbox, and back to the reservior...but both the gearbox AND the booster have SEPARATE low pressure return lines. From what I can tell....the booster only sees line pressure when the pedal is depressed. (fluid only flows from the booster return port when the pedal is depressed) I would do some more research before setting up with this particular booster. Maybe there is a booster out there that is designed to be used with manual steering...IDK?? Good luck. ---Keith
 
How did you guys take the push nut off the bolt!? There isn't much space especially with the way the previous owner wired things up. But it's on the bottom left bolt and it is apart of the clamp holding a harness in place.

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How did you guys take the push nut off the bolt!? There isn't much space especially with the way the previous owner wired things up. But it's on the bottom left bolt and it is apart of the clamp holding a harness in place.

3d3ec9c3.jpg
A screwdriver to pry it up and some needle nose vice grips to get it off...
 
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Just waiting for my speed bleeders and to finish the rest of my projects I have going with the car and I will be set.

I did break the P/S reservoir trying take the hoses off since I replaced them both while I was at it. :mad:
 
Looks good....don't forget the valve cover!!:biggrin: How do they work?? Any issues with them??
 
Looks good....don't forget the valve cover!!:biggrin: How do they work?? Any issues with them??

Thanks! I haven't tried em yet...I can't wait though, I don't think I'll miss the powermaster any. Still gotta plug away at reassembling the motor and am waiting for a couple more parts.
 
Looking good, Jordan_J. It's a good thing you painted that MC because it will start to rust in a few days if you don't. :) I even painted the cover hold downs with the same aluminum paint I used on the valve covers.
 
Thanks! I painted the hold downs black too it just doesn't look like it in the pic. I kind of wish the booster's paint matched.
 
Thanks for the detailed write up. My power master has given out on me, so it is time for me to convert. This write up has me much more optimistic now :)

-Will
 
I'm sorry I worded that wrong,
what I ment to say is if I'm running manual steering how would I run the lines to the hydroboost? Or does it really matter?

You would need to convert to manual brakes or vacuum assist. Since the car is boosted, I would advise manual.

-Will
 
Ok guys after I got the car back together I gave the brakes a try and they didn't work when I was just rolling unless I pushed them to the floor. I parked the car and re-bled the brakes 10 times per wheel (I'm not sure how many times I bled the brakes the first time probably close to that). Now the roads cleared out a little bit so I took it for a spin around the neighborhood and the brakes stop the car but it doesn't feel any better than the powermaster did. I need to depress the pedal at least half way to stop the car and it doesn't jerk to a stop like I suspected. Do you think the brakes need to be bled more or could there be another issue?
 
Did you depress the tip on the proportioning valve when you bled them?

I didn't the first time but I did the 2nd. How far in is it supposed to go? I put the clamp on it the 2nd time and it looked like it went in some but how far is it supposed to go in? I didn't want to break it.
 
It doesn't go in to far so you should be good.

I'm guessing that it's a remaned master then? Does the pedal feel hard when the engines not running?
 
Yeah they are reman parts. When the car is sitting the pedal feels rock solid and the second time I bled it made it feel better all around. The brakes did feel better after the second time I bled them though.

The front hoses are maybe a year old but the back is who knows how old so I'm not sure if it's bad but it wasn't before. The PS pump is new too it was bad so I changed it at the same time now there is no whine except when I turn the wheel all the way while the brake is depressed.

I put some Lucas ps stop leak in there when I filled it since the bottle said you could with a new pump to condition seals. Think it's too thick for the booster?
 
Sounds like a booster issue...as many booster problems as people are having, it may be time to find another source, or type of booster.
 
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