SD2/Powerlogger Pro general discussion

[TurboTdr3.8]

The manual did a great job on the high lights on what to do , but I need some help on the small numbers in the tables and what they do and to get where I want to get . BTW I have probably read the manual 50 plus times but I am not getting what I want , I know it is something stupid I am over looking and looking too hard for . This is my first rodeo and it has been hard to ride .

 

[TurboDave]

You're going to have to be more specific than "small numbers in the tables" What small numbers in what tables?

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

How do you put pictures of the tables online , I tried to copy and paste from the power logger file but it will not let me .

 

[TurboDave]

Get whatever table you're talking about up on the screen, then press Alt + PrtSc (alt print screen). This will put a copy of that window on the clipboard.
Then open a simple picture editor like Windows Paint. Then press Ctrl + V (control V). You will now see the table on the paint screen.
Then do a save as, tell paint to save as a jpg file and give it a name and save it.
Then all you have to do is post that picture to the thread like any other picture.

 

[TurboDave]

Then it will post like this:

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Thanks Dave the info worked , never been in them waters before .

 

[huntsg]

As far as the manual goes, I would agree that it is pretty good with information on the parameters and what I would call tuning through the chip. It is somewhat lacking in the how to tune through editing the VE tables. It may require a lot of hands on to figure it out, but a little more info would help. For example, if I go into the 220 kpa row and change all the AFR targets from 3000 rpm to 5300 rpm from 11.3 to 10.9 how do I blend it and what does it do to the VE table, if anything? For the same kpa region if I go into the VE table and change the values to 79 what have I done? For my specific case, I'm still working on it being too rich (I removed the D 11 tap, hopefully solved my throttle issue, and grounded everything to the block) and I'm struggling with how to address it in the VE table versus parameters 1-8. Something simple from a tutorial perspective along the lines of showing a rich or lean log at idle and how editing the VE table fixed it would go along way towards helping me.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

As far as the manual goes, I would agree that it is pretty good with information on the parameters and what I would call tuning through the chip. It is somewhat lacking in the how to tune through editing the VE tables. It may require a lot of hands on to figure it out, but a little more info would help. For example, if I go into the 220 kpa row and change all the AFR targets from 3000 rpm to 5300 rpm from 11.3 to 10.9 how do I blend it and what does it do to the VE table, if anything? For the same kpa region if I go into the VE table and change the values to 79 what have I done? For my specific case, I'm still working on it being too rich (I removed the D 11 tap, hopefully solved my throttle issue, and grounded everything to the block) and I'm struggling with how to address it in the VE table versus parameters 1-8. Something simple from a tutorial perspective along the lines of showing a rich or lean log at idle and how editing the VE table fixed it would go along way towards helping me.

That is same thing I was referring to , you hit the nail on the head in your explanation

 

[we4Mateo]

Tuning a VE table is not for the faint of heart. It takes practice and know how of what engine your are working with. I don't think VE table editing could be well put in a manual. I could be wrong though. This SD2 chip is awesome, but not for the faint of heart either. It's been stated often that this chip is for tuners. Buying this chip does not make you a tuner. I think you guys need to realize how complex of an engine management system you are using now and realize that you have a lot of trial and error in front of you. I'm amazed it's as simple to use as it appears to be.

 

[huntsg]

Thanks for the insight. I wouldn't consider myself faint of heart nor unwilling to learn the details of tuning, but I also don't want to just jump in the deep end without some swimming lessons either. Thus my suggestion for posting a tune of a rich or lean idle so I could get a feel for the touch required.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[TurboDave]

I like to keep things more simple to start with. I'm not overly concerned about the VE table or even the Target AF table to start out with. You need to make sure you have the correct settings in the chips "table" what used to be the BLM table but now has other functions. Cells 1 - 8 need to be set correctly for what you want to achieve first. I set cells 2,3 & 4 to 97 to keep everything in closed loop because the target AF table isn't too bad for starters.
I use powerlogger's data page a lot. When warmed up and idling make not of what chip cell is highlighted, it should be cell one. What is it telling you??? Is it plus or minus? This will tell you what kind of adjustment to make to cell one to get the CF% closer to zero. Anything less that a 5% CF is good, less than 3% is great.

Now it gets a little harder, but what I do is go out for a cruise around. While driving you should see one of cells 5 - 8 highlighted. I try to do them one at a time. I'll cruise for a mile or two or three attempting to keep cell 5 highlighted as much as possible, and glancing at the CF% making a mental note of where it tends to be most of the time. I then pull over and make a change to cell 5 to try and reduce the CF% closer to zero.

I then do the same thing for cell 6, driving several miles with cell 6 highlighted as much as is practical. Make changes same as above.

Then it's cell 7's turn. A little harder to keep cell 7 highlighted for very much time but glance at CF% and note where it tends. Make corrections to cell 7 as above.

Same thing goes for cell 8, but it's harder to stay that far into boost for very long.

Now, the safest way to do all this is to actually RECORD your cruise, driving several miles, enough to see data in every cell 5 - 8. Then at your convenience you can play the log back an make changes to those cells. Then you'll have to do it again to see how close your changes got you. Took me at least 4 cruise around logs to get things close enough to satisfy me.

Play with those cells a lot trying to keep your CF% as close to zero as possible. Keeping in mind you'll never see the exact same numbers on any two drives. Weather and other changes will cause small changes in CF.

After you've had lots of fun trying to get the basic tune good to go, Only then should you worry about making any changes to the VE table, or Target AFR table.
Knowing all well that adding numbers in the VE table increases fuel, and lowering numbers in the VE table reduces fuel. Guess what changing fuel delivery does to your now good CF numbers??

Oh, and btw, if you make any changes to the Target AFR table it will also cause you once perfect CF numbers to change. Start all over again for that area!!

Big nasty circle. That's WHY I try to get the user tune cells (5 - 8) good to go first!!!

I've actually made very few changes if any to the VE table, and have changed some Target AFR table values so that my idle wasn't so rich. My car likes a 14.0:1 better than some others. Every car will be different. Me, I prefer running the car as lean as is practical at any given load or rpm.

HTH.

 

[huntsg]

Thanks Dave. That's exactly how I've approached it so far. The car is running much smoother and I'm getting ready for some wot passes soon.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[missin' 2]

got a wot run to be looked at.. how to remove the lean to rich dips just after wot and steady out the a/f correction

 

[Eric Stage I]

got a wot run to be looked at.. how to remove the lean to rich dips just after wot and steady out the a/f correction

If you look at frame 432, you can see the correction is pretty high. You need to add fuel just before that area, so that the correction does not go up so high. That should help smooth it out.
You have quite a bit of knock going on in that run, so you might want to back down on the boost until you figure out the knock.

 

[Eric Stage I]

Guys, I'm working on a video to help visualize the tuning process.

 

[missin' 2]

oh shoot I posted the wrong one. here is the right one.

when does the a/f correction enable is it a certain psi or how does that work.

should I add some more fuel to the ve table during spool up, so that when the a/f correction comes on it doesn't see such a big discrepancy between actual and target a/f?

 

["Reaper"]

Ok have a question I'm running an innovate WB MTX-L my gauge is pretty steady and doesn't just around all over the place. On the powerlogger I see the WB being very jumpy is this normal or should it be as steady as the gauge. The gauge after engine is warm is between 12.4-12.8 with -+5 on fuel correction. The powerlogger showes the WB being between 12.5-13.5 and a few times going up to 14 is this normal? I ran a ground wire from the block to where I have the gauge grounded to see if that would settle it down but there was no change.

Shaun

 

[Street Lethal]

Me, I prefer running the car as lean as is practical at any given load or rpm...

... be sure to include your own target boost pressure and if your running meth injection, otherwise members will think it's practical to lean it out without that latter, while upping the former, then detonating.

 

[TurboDave]

... be sure to include your own target boost pressure and if your running meth injection, otherwise members will think it's practical to lean it out without that latter, while upping the former, then detonating.

That's true. I should include that info. Most of the regulars on here pretty much know that I'm an anti alky person. And I run 20-21# in 1st and 2nd, and pull it back a couple #'s in 3rd, while always on 93 octane.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD using Tapatalk 2.

 

[jasjamz]

Guys, I'm working on a video to help visualize the tuning process.

Awesome. My chip is still in the box. I want to see how I do at the Midwest Buick Challenge then swap it out for BG. I have the 3.5 bar map and quite honestly, the car runs and drives so dang well on the SD one, I'm scared to start over. .08 away from the big boys club!