t/a ss race headers- crossover pipe question

[haywire4130]

just wrapping up the install of my t/a headers and had a question about the slip joint on the crossover pipe- i have the newer style with the tabs welded on to put a bolt thru to keep the joint from coming apart but when i adjust it to fit flat on both headers the holes don't line up. my question is: in lieu of the bolt, can i just tack the joint with my tig welder? i don't want to nail it down tight if it needs to float for a reason (prevents cracking during expansion?). i guess plan b would be to cut one of the tabs off and tig it back on so it lines up if the bolt is the way to go, or just omit the bolt all together and let it move- any input/experience would be appreciated

 

[coach]

I don't see how it could possibly come apart. When I looked at mine, I was thinking that the 2 ring crossover seal was very nice and the bolt is not needed. If it comes apart...you've got bigger issues don't ya think?


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[haywire4130]

I totally agree, but I spoke to the guy at t/a when I placed the order this winter and he explained about the tabs: he said during a worst case scenario at the track he's seen a backfire spread the pipes apart hard enough to crack a header, the tabs/bolt was his fix. Im not worried about them coming apart, was more wondering if it would be better to let the joint float or weld it, based on anybodys experience. Did you use the bolt? I was kinda nervous about putting a bolt and locknut just snug on there on the off chance Iit loosens up and becomes a source of false knock.

 

[coach]

I totally agree, but I spoke to the guy at t/a when I placed the order this winter and he explained about the tabs: he said during a worst case scenario at the track he's seen a backfire spread the pipes apart hard enough to crack a header, the tabs/bolt was his fix. Im not worried about them coming apart, was more wondering if it would be better to let the joint float or weld it, based on anybodys experience. Did you use the bolt? I was kinda nervous about putting a bolt and locknut just snug on there on the off chance Iit loosens up and becomes a source of false knock.

To small for false knock. The fit on the pipes is superb. I have not buttoned up my build yet, so I do not have the engine in the car. Sorry


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Nick Micale]

Do NOT weld the slip joint as this is also an expansion joint to prevent stress cracks.

A 1/4" bolt with a second lock nut should be used, but do not tighten, just snug.

I have experienced the slip joint move 1" after many WOT blasts, that is why we added the tabs.

 

[coach]

Do NOT weld the slip joint as this is also an expansion joint to prevent stress cracks.

A 1/4" bolt with a second lock nut should be used, but do not tighten, just snug.

I have experienced the slip joint move 1" after many WOT blasts, that is why we added the tabs.

There you have it. If Nick says NO...then NO it is.
Thanks Nick


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[turbofabricator]

Oh crap........what the heck does Nick Know? He runs a stupid V6 and thinks everyone should, too.








I too agree with Nick on this. If you have a TIG.......cut off the subject tab and re-weld it where it fits your engine. Real simple, done deal. I like the flexibility of the cross over to prevent cracks. I don't like how close the cross over comes to the frame and brake/fuel lines. I have cut the passenger side part up and make new parts for more clearance.

 

[haywire4130]

Do NOT weld the slip joint as this is also an expansion joint to prevent stress cracks.

A 1/4" bolt with a second lock nut should be used, but do not tighten, just snug.

I have experienced the slip joint move 1" after many WOT blasts, that is why we added the tabs.

Thanks very much nick, thats exactly what I was looking for. Come to think of it, the guy at t/a (mike?) Spoke very highly of you when I was picking his brain about gaskets/torque spec etc. As far as clearance I had to flex the fuel lines toward the frame an inch for clearance and I had to do a little finagling on my lt4 corvette starter (one bolt was close so I helicoiled the thru hole, drilled out the threaded end and installed it from the rear, and also beveled the ear slightly.) I'll re-clock the bolt tab and proceed. Cant wait to have reliable leak-free headers!!!

 

[we4Mateo]

My slip joint leaks a bit and my spool isn't quite as good as stock. Could the slip joint effect this? Anyone seal them up in any way? Sounds like you can't seal it as it moves...

 

[Nick Micale]

Matt, my comment above was directed at the race headers which uses band clamps, as the stock replacement headers use a ball connection like stock headers.

The band clamp has no flexibility like in the stock crossover, so you could weld the slip joint like I have done in the past..

 

[we4Mateo]

Matt, my comment above was directed at the race headers which uses band clamps, as the stock replacement headers use a ball connection like stock headers.

The band clamp has no flexibility like in the stock crossover, so you could weld the slip joint like I have done in the past..

Thanks Nick! Will do.

 

[whitehot1]

I have the Kenne Bell mild steel headers that i bought new in 1996 and they have band clamps and the slip joint in the crossover pipe but no tabs for a bolt. And i've had the crossover pipe welded together since 2002 and it's never given me a problem.

Not saying it's the right thing to do for everyone but i did it using my own judgement at the time. Maybe if i had asked the question online about doing it perhaps i would not of had it done,but like i said no problems.

 

[dynoman]

I just welded mine because I couldn't keep them from leaking at the slip joint & it was about 1/2" from the fly wheel. There was hardly any room for the clamp. ATR stainless headers. I'm going to start a thread on before & after SwainTech ceramic coating of headers, crossover,& down pipe. Pipes are out for coating right now.

 

[Nick Micale]

I just welded mine because I couldn't keep them from leaking at the slip joint & it was about 1/2" from the fly wheel. There was hardly any room for the clamp. ATR stainless headers......

The slip joint on the TA race headers are different than ATR which does not have an additional internal insert which would keep it from leaking even w/o a clamp.