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Time to go stage II with A/C!

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I don't see where anything should be changed. Your initial flash is at 2600 rpm which is where you want to cruise down the highway at. It's going from a 1000 rpm idle to 4800 rpm and 12psi in 4.5 seconds with a small ci engine. These motors will not go from an idle to 5000 rpm in 2 seconds without it being a high rpm race motor with a loose converter. Or unless you want to spray it like Donnie.
 
Build boost on the first pre-stage bulb, then bump (using creep feature) it into the second bulb after reaching desired launch RPM on the two-step..... Simple.
Allan G.
 
That sounds great for track use.but what about on the street, when I roll off from a light?
 
N2O.
Simple.
A little engine like yours on gasoline, a very safe 50-75 shot would do wonders.
You could even give the guy next to you a purge to warn him before the light changes.
No longer than 1.5 seconds on the gas and you're launch ready. Probably half that time with the turbine side that you're running.
The converter you're using now would work out perfect with that scenario. You wouldn't have to change anything else. Converters, gears, turbos. Just add the nitrous shot and you're done with it. The nitrous will bring the whole package into perfect focus.
Like the saying goes, nitrous and turbos is the perfect marriage.
 
Where in Toronto do they prep the streets for these kinda launches? I'm only an hour and a bit away and I would't even think about a bosted launch from a light.
 
If you had some track data to evaluate how the converter works on the gear changes with some boost put to it, we could make a determination on how much of a change could be made. Just looking at a spool up log you could say the converter could be loosened 400 rpm to get it close to 3000 flash stall. However without that track data you could be jumping ahead of yourself. The converter is one of the last things to be fine tuned and must be tested at the power level you intend to race at. If the car is intended to run 8.90 and we have rpm data at 9.80, and we restall the converter to the 9.80 power level it will then be to loose to run 8.90.
 
When can we expect the track data Dusty is referring to?

Hopefully before you run a 9 second pass. I have hit a snag with the battery relocation, the battery box does not fit in the trunk as planned, so i'm looking into more mounting idea's. I need to be able to have room for all my tires etc. when I go drive to the track, with the A/C on....
 
Hopefully before you run a 9 second pass. I have hit a snag with the battery relocation, the battery box does not fit in the trunk as planned, so i'm looking into more mounting idea's. I need to be able to have room for all my tires etc. when I go drive to the track, with the A/C on....

And the excuses just keep on comin'.
 
Hopefully before you run a 9 second pass. I have hit a snag with the battery relocation, the battery box does not fit in the trunk as planned, so i'm looking into more mounting idea's. I need to be able to have room for all my tires etc. when I go drive to the track, with the A/C on....

i have a summit racing kit and it sits flush in the spare tire well. can still lay two rims w/tires side by side if i wanted to.
 
i have a summit racing kit and it sits flush in the spare tire well. can still lay two rims w/tires side by side if i wanted to.
He has a boombox with 4 subs in the trunk...so space is at a premium.
 
i have a summit racing kit and it sits flush in the spare tire well. can still lay two rims w/tires side by side if i wanted to.


PLease send pics of this install, no way it can sit flush if its the plastic box?
 
norbs said:
PLease send pics of this install, no way it can sit flush if its the plastic box?

Why stop now, if space is a concern then start cutting and make it bigger.
AG
 
Here:


There is no reason two tires can't lay flat next to eachother
 

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I assumed there would be no need to carry extra tires. I assumed you would run drag radials. :)

Looking good norbs, can't wait to see more of this car.
 
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