Well we are finally started.....Phoenix Project aka...

dwall

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
"One piece at time and its cost me more than a dime!" Its been just that with due respect to Johnny Cash.

The body/frame went off to the glass blaster yesterday. We are just doing the body for starters and should have it back early next week. There are a couple pin holes in the back driver side well but everything else holds water! Ask me how I know....:redface:

A few pics of the tub on a trailer, It is separated from the frame and ready to lift off for a budget blasting - only surface rust (underside & firewall) and possible rust thru areas and exterior will be prepped for the next step.

Hopefully this thread will be more fun than frustration! :eek: No gar-own-teee I know. I will try to keep the thread going and progress moving. Got my fingers crossed.

Have a look.
Bob/dwall
 

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Love these threads

how heavy is the body when stripped of the decklid,doors and glass?
couple of guys pick it up, or still too heavy? Cant wait to see pics of it blasted..Need to figure out what to do with my frame

Good luck, looks like you are off to a great start
 
how heavy is the body when stripped of the decklid,doors and glass?
couple of guys pick it up, or still too heavy? Cant wait to see pics of it blasted..Need to figure out what to do with my frame

Good luck, looks like you are off to a great start

I;d have it powder coated, it was only 2oo bux mor than sandblasting.
 
I don't know how heavy it is but...

how heavy is the body when stripped of the decklid,doors and glass?
couple of guys pick it up, or still too heavy? Cant wait to see pics of it blasted..Need to figure out what to do with my frame

Good luck, looks like you are off to a great start

With no drive train and all the glass removed - BTW windshield just crumbled - it had wiper scratches anyway - its relatively light!

We lifted the back end (used trunk latch loop) off after taking out all the body bolts slilpped a couple 2x4's in to separate it from the frame. With engine hoist it was easy of course. While the back end was still resting on the 2x4's I lifted the pass right side off the frame unassisted (even with a bad back/legs).

A couple more fat sticks went under the front and some straps to hold it on the frame and trailer and off it went to the media blaster.

Anyway the point .... So my best guess is two young bulls and a couple old farts like me is all you'd need to manage the tub. We'll see? Prolly it would help to have someone extra to place supports/sawhorses/4x4 etc into place for body work etc.. When we get that far we want to place it high enough so the frame will roll under on some form of wheel (old donuts/rims maybe?)

As far as powder coating - good idea. For me however, we sill save the $ - use the wire brush and slop it on coating - after all we have no plans to operate in snow/ice and probably not much in the rain. They shut down the track don't they?:rolleyes:

Bob
 
Lookin good. Been there, done that. We will have to talk at the Midwest Meet...we can exchange war stories. At least yours isn't wrecked though!!:D I'd go powdercoating on the frame too. That's what I did. That stuff is tougher than S#!t!!! I'll be watchin your progress!!:D ---Keith
 
I appreciate the support/comments guys. Thanks!

Lookin good. Been there, done that. We will have to talk at the Midwest Meet...we can exchange war stories. At least yours isn't wrecked though!!:D I'd go powdercoating on the frame too. That's what I did. That stuff is tougher than S#!t!!! I'll be watchin your progress!!:D ---Keith

Looking forward to the Meet Keith. TWO EVENTS!

I guess my way of looking @ powdercoating is..... the frame survived this far with little or no paint. The body will be only protected by prime/paint which hopefully will outlast Mother Nature's worst (I will allow as little wet as possible and no WI winter snow/ice/rust) so I guess ...... save a little here and maybe coat some engine parts later if Ican afford it. :redface:

Well on to the body. It's back and Dan (what a guy) and Sandy have it shot with rust stop primer. There are a couple small holes in the DR side rear foot well but other wise good - Big sigh!! !! !:tongue:

Pics!!! Skipped the trunk (the third shot) to save $/time/media as it was rust free - so wire brush and recoat will be in order there.

Other than paying the bill ....that's it for now.
 

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Bob, what car is this??? This isnt the two tone is it? Or is this what you are using for the GN you saved? Did you find a new body to use? Looks like an NA Regal pre 84?
 
Hey Dave...FYI: Dig out that seam sealer where the trunk floor meets the wheelwell...you might find some nasty stuff in there. Every Regal I've owned has had a little rust in that spot. You have gone that far, might as well check it out while you're there.:redface: Body looks GREAT!! Wish mine was that nice when I started!!;)* You need one of these...Best $900 I ever spent!!!:eek:* ---Keith
 

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Yea - I missed out on a used 1x $700 rotisserie.

Hey Dave...FYI: Dig out that seam sealer where the trunk floor meets the wheelwell...you might find some nasty stuff in there. Every Regal I've owned has had a little rust in that spot. You have gone that far, might as well check it out while you're there.:redface: Body looks GREAT!! Wish mine was that nice when I started!!;)* You need one of these...Best $900 I ever spent!!!:eek:* ---Keith

But DAn has one at his shop so we're good - so far we have lifted, jacked, & rolled this thing around OK without it. WE got some pin holes to fix and then its on to the frame. So I will get the seam sealer Kieth - goes in right after I clean scrub and scrape. BTW that pic sure loks nice! Something to shoot for.

Yea Jeremy - its more/another Regal & more pieces around here.

Let's see........ something ought to fit together.;) I'm headed for a streetable drag car I guess. Don't know how I will finish this tub but it will come together in time. Like I said above ... its the frame next and then suspension choices. I could use some advice there I know. What do you say? Low rent is where I start these days. lol

I'm up early got lots to do today. Good weather for a couple more days then it'll probably snow!!!

Check in later I guess.
Bob
 
AS YOU KNOW - Not everything goes as planned...

The blasting revealed some rust spots on the floors. SURPRISE!!:eek: About half dozen holes sized like a grain of rice. How to fix or cover them? I want the whole thing to stand up to a little twist.:)

Everything has been done in epoxy primer. Passenger side front is the only area unscathed by 'Rusty the Reaper'. I need to decide what's next:
  1. Weld in floor sections from a Cutlass doner. Some cost.
  2. WEld in floor sections from aftermarket floor pans. More cost.
  3. Flow in some epoxy and allow it to harden - then grind out excess
  4. Epoxy with fiberglass mat then more epoxy and grind it smooooth.
I guess I know the longevity of the first two is maybe the best but am wondering about the results/staying power of the less cost epoxy and epoxy mat combination. We kinda ruled out spot welding in fill into the holes because that would probably bugger out the holes even larger. Ouch!

I added a couple pics showing the rest of the body is pretty straight and rust free.

OPINIONS??? Your experience?
Thanks.
 

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Bob, just glass them over the holes. You'll want to sand the primer off. Fiberglass does wonders for that sort of thing. Small pin holes like that are very normal for our cars in this area. After that I'd go over it with POR-15 on the bottom side and the top. You'll never have a problem after that.
 
Bob,

I had a similar issue with my car. Rusty driver's side floor pan with the biggest hole being about dime size and just a bunch of little pock marks. With a helping hand and a mig welder we got them all fixed. I'll still go over everything with Evercoat's "Metal-to-Metal" filler before final paint just to smooth things out and seal out moisture.

Evercoat also makes a filler called "FiberTech" which is Kevlar reinforced and is a lot stronger than traditional "kitty hair" mixtures if you want to go that route instead of welding. Then a Por-15 topcoat like Jeremy mentioned and you'll be good. Replacing half the floor for some small spots isn't worth the trouble in my opinion.

Just my $0.02 worth.
 
I've always been partial to metal.:smile: just my opinion. If done right, it will last a long time....er....like that '55 in the background!!:D
 
Time for some pics and...

Dan found time for me and this project. What daya think? Lots of black vehicles and TWO black Buicks. He owns the shop and took the lead - THANX - He is appreciated! With a friendly can do attitude and knowledge/experience to back it up!

Finally finding out things I need to know.
  1. Are body mount holes rusty? Yep four bad ones located behind the front and back wheel wells. Who knows what I expected - hope I guess is the first thing dashed I guess. The car did sit for 10 years - last registered in 1998.
  2. Good posi? - Yep!:)
  3. Rear suspension? OK - looks almost new Hotchkiss parts upper & lower. Shock look OK - not GM?
  4. Steering box - no water in it!
  5. Wiring harness? - needs work fried door wires & lotsa aftermarket (to be polite) patches now all removed.
  6. Gas tank? Looks good! Four galllons of 1998 gas (maybe less than $1/gal back then? - I don't remember) - That was some rank smelling sh1t.:redface:
REALLY enjoyed the rural engineering today - NOW its time to make decisions. :eek:

The pics will tell part of the story. First the doors, trunk deck and gas tank gone. Then outside to lift and look - rear mounts - ouch! Bad news.:( More bad news on the fronts.

Hope you enjoy the pics. I will post more later.
 

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