julio, that must be mine in the picture
On its way in the AM. Post some feedback when you get it installed.
Digital pressure guage and meter
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On its way in the AM. Post some feedback when you get it installed.
right on, will do. it wont be till after thanksgiving weekend. thanks
when is the powerlogger software going to work with this?
when it does let me know so i can order another one.
Scott89TTA
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That looks the easiest way for my Power Logger. Great idea Julio! I have a FP transducer already so the 2 together would be great info on the PL.
Data is awesome.. That way when something ever starts going wrong you have pebbles to get you back home and find your way.
Worse engine tragedy is to have a failure and no way to be certain what happened.. becuase you guess wrong and it blows again. I went through some headgasket issues 3 years ago and logging fuel pressure it finally showed up. A bad relay was cuasing my problems.
If you have the logger and available inputs.. use them.
Tech tip of the day 
Got an extra input on the logger.. monitor fuel pump voltage.. easy..
Get two resistors and make a voltage divider. A 1k and a 510. Tie the 1k to the fuel pump power wire, and tie one leg of the 510 to ground. The junction of the 1k and 510 will go to the input. You will have 4.7volts on the junction when the fuel pump see's 14v.
If the voltage drops down to 13.. you will now have 4.4volts.. and monitoring this line tests your wiring at the fuel pump input. That voltage drops.. your fuel out drops.. instead of blaming the pump.. if you know what I mean.. fix the electrical.
Resistors can be 1/4 watt and available at Radio Shack or equivalent.
Got an extra input on the logger.. monitor fuel pump voltage.. easy..
Get two resistors and make a voltage divider. A 1k and a 510. Tie the 1k to the fuel pump power wire, and tie one leg of the 510 to ground. The junction of the 1k and 510 will go to the input. You will have 4.7volts on the junction when the fuel pump see's 14v.
If the voltage drops down to 13.. you will now have 4.4volts.. and monitoring this line tests your wiring at the fuel pump input. That voltage drops.. your fuel out drops.. instead of blaming the pump.. if you know what I mean.. fix the electrical.
Resistors can be 1/4 watt and available at Radio Shack or equivalent.
Yes no problem. Is the honeywell 12 v or 5 v?
The brass piece is 15.00.
If its 5v, then let me know how long from 3 bar to filter. Should be approx 6 feet. and i'll make the harness.
Or just call me
It's a 5V unit...and I'll call you as I need to talk to you anyway.
Rich
I have added additional selections to input 4 and 5. You can adjust them by changing the labels and scaling in the INI file.
Julio, I set the calibration to .25 to 4.75v 0 to 150 psi (assuming this is a gauge pressure sensor, and not absolute)
The software is posted here: its version 1.3.21
PL enhancement request - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support
Bob
Julio, I set the calibration to .25 to 4.75v 0 to 150 psi (assuming this is a gauge pressure sensor, and not absolute)
The software is posted here: its version 1.3.21
PL enhancement request - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support
Bob
im sure he can change it in the next update. all we would have to do is change it in the .ini file no big deal. just change it from .25 to .5 and 4.75 to 4.5 and save.
this is how i have mine
[CustomAnalog4]
CustomAnalog4Name=ALKY PSI
CustomAnalog4LongName=ALKY PRESSURE
CustomAnalog4Tag=ALKY
CustomAnalog4GaugeMin=0
CustomAnalog4GaugeMax=150
CustomAnalog4GraphMin=0
CustomAnalog4GraphMax=150
CustomAnalog4MinValue=0
CustomAnalog4MaxValue=150
CustomAnalog4MinVolt=0.5
CustomAnalog4MaxVolt=4.50
this is how i have mine
[CustomAnalog4]
CustomAnalog4Name=ALKY PSI
CustomAnalog4LongName=ALKY PRESSURE
CustomAnalog4Tag=ALKY
CustomAnalog4GaugeMin=0
CustomAnalog4GaugeMax=150
CustomAnalog4GraphMin=0
CustomAnalog4GraphMax=150
CustomAnalog4MinValue=0
CustomAnalog4MaxValue=150
CustomAnalog4MinVolt=0.5
CustomAnalog4MaxVolt=4.50
Would this be the same for fuel pressure? also i changed the fuel pressure to 100 psi max and the alky pressure to 200 psi max
CustomAnalog4Name=Alky Pressure
CustomAnalog4LongName=Alky Pressure Sensor
CustomAnalog4Tag=Alky4
CustomAnalog4GaugeMin=0
CustomAnalog4GaugeMax=200
CustomAnalog4GraphMin=0
CustomAnalog4GraphMax=200
CustomAnalog4MinValue=0
CustomAnalog4MaxValue=200
CustomAnalog4MinVolt=0.5
CustomAnalog4MaxVolt=4.5
[CustomAnalog5]
CustomAnalog5Name=Fuel Pressure
CustomAnalog5LongName=Fuel Pressure Sensor
CustomAnalog5Tag=Fuel5
CustomAnalog5GaugeMin=0
CustomAnalog5GaugeMax=100
CustomAnalog5GraphMin=0
CustomAnalog5GraphMax=100
CustomAnalog5MinValue=0
CustomAnalog5MaxValue=100
CustomAnalog5MinVolt=0.25
CustomAnalog5MaxVolt=4.75
the 'value' and 'volt' settings must match the sensor characteristics.
For the alky sensor its .5 and 4.5 for volts; 0 and 150 for the value.
If these don't match the sensor, the reading will be incorrect.
I posted a new version with the defaults set per above.
Bob
For the alky sensor its .5 and 4.5 for volts; 0 and 150 for the value.
If these don't match the sensor, the reading will be incorrect.
I posted a new version with the defaults set per above.
Bob
GNVYUS 1
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Very cool, nice to see Alky is continuing to evolve.
One question, the new pumps are pushing 250, is there a gauge that goes that high?
One question, the new pumps are pushing 250, is there a gauge that goes that high?
Understand one thing is to see 250 PSI, the other is to see flow numbers.
Example what puts more alcohol into the motor, an M1 nozzle at 300 PSI or an M15 at 125 PSI. The M15 of course. Since its orfice is 15x.
The current(amperage) on a pump goes up as the load/pressure goes up. As does its heat and wear on armature/brushes/etc. So the only reason to have a real high pressure pump is for headroom and hope to never have to use it. While we can argue over atomization and the need for pressure, there comes a point where lets say 70 PSI delivers great atomization.. so anything above lets say 70 yields no resluts except greater volume.
Example tune the car to use 120 PSI. If the boost creeps up you have a system in place to save it.
There are transducers that can reads 1000's of PSI. example the ones used with Nitrous bottles. And the guage is simply a function of calibration to that transducer.
To run the pump at full output is like having an 8 second car and running it at 8 seconds. Versus having an 8 second car and slowing it down to 10 seconds. At the 10 second level, the car will last way longer without failures. And have the ability to run faster if the need occurs.
So its neat to see pressure, doesnt mean we need to run the high pressure.
Lastly.. the market place is full of pumps with claims of PSI. 150 250, etc etc etc.. they need to specify orfice used for testing. Huge difference with a pump that can make 250 PSI on an M1 nozzle and when you put an M15, it drops to 140 PSI or even less.. as I have tested many many pumps and they dont move the needle as claimed. The other is at what voltage the pump made the pressure at. If it does 250 at 18volts.. you'll never see 18 volts on your car. This is part of the voodoo with these kits and the aftermarket with claims.
Hope this helps
Example what puts more alcohol into the motor, an M1 nozzle at 300 PSI or an M15 at 125 PSI. The M15 of course. Since its orfice is 15x.
The current(amperage) on a pump goes up as the load/pressure goes up. As does its heat and wear on armature/brushes/etc. So the only reason to have a real high pressure pump is for headroom and hope to never have to use it. While we can argue over atomization and the need for pressure, there comes a point where lets say 70 PSI delivers great atomization.. so anything above lets say 70 yields no resluts except greater volume.
Example tune the car to use 120 PSI. If the boost creeps up you have a system in place to save it.
There are transducers that can reads 1000's of PSI. example the ones used with Nitrous bottles. And the guage is simply a function of calibration to that transducer.
To run the pump at full output is like having an 8 second car and running it at 8 seconds. Versus having an 8 second car and slowing it down to 10 seconds. At the 10 second level, the car will last way longer without failures. And have the ability to run faster if the need occurs.
So its neat to see pressure, doesnt mean we need to run the high pressure.
Lastly.. the market place is full of pumps with claims of PSI. 150 250, etc etc etc.. they need to specify orfice used for testing. Huge difference with a pump that can make 250 PSI on an M1 nozzle and when you put an M15, it drops to 140 PSI or even less.. as I have tested many many pumps and they dont move the needle as claimed. The other is at what voltage the pump made the pressure at. If it does 250 at 18volts.. you'll never see 18 volts on your car. This is part of the voodoo with these kits and the aftermarket with claims.
Hope this helps
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