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Discussion in 'Performance ECM Upgrades' started by 34blazer, Apr 11, 2014.
Ok , Thanks for your help.
Well, I drove around yesterday and burned a tank of fuel. I took Removebeforeflight's advice and removed the wastgate actuator. I was really able to get the ve tables in in those 100kpa cells.
My laptop died right when I was about to hook up the actuator and take a ride and datalog.
Got a few more days on it. Still chasing some random knock counts. Going to have to check the knock sensor torque. The 3" DP and exhaust have plenty of clearance. I don't feel/hear anything rattling.
Is there a setting that turn the air off after x amount of TPS or AE or PE? My AC compressor cycles off with hardly any throttle angle, at any gear of speed. I've just redid the entire AC before driving the car. Pressures are good, high is not too high, and low is not to low. I've adjusted the low pressure switch since I am running R134a.
Take a look at a data log of this. As for stopping A/C, there is a flag when set to kill it when in PE mode. PE mode can be entered via TPS% vs RPM or MAP KPa vs RPM:
Option Word 3 - Bit 3 - A/CPe
PE - TPS% Enable Threshold
PE - MAP Enable Threshold
There is also a high RPM A/C cutout:
A/C - High RPM disable
A/C - Low RPM Enable
Thank you sir, after looking at a log, that is what's happening. The ac is turning off when going into PE, and it's the map PE. Now, I don't think I want to change the TPS and MAP PE tables, so maybe I'll uncheck that flag, and just use the RPM table.
I thing my EBL classic used that routine to turn off the AC, just and RPM window. You'd remember better than me.
The Classic didn't have the MAP enabled PE table/function. And there wasn't a flag to allow the A/C to stay on in PE mode.
The above mentioned option flag just changes the A/C so it stays on when in PE mode. Another thing you can do is to increase the MAP PE enter values.
Thank you! Great info. I think I'll try just turning off ac/PE flag.
Haven't tried the PE flag, I forgot. I have been dialing in some things though. I had the standard wastegate adjusted too tight, I was seeing 23lbs of boost in 3 and 4. Good thing I've been running octane booster. After I adjusted that correctly I am getting 22 in 1-2, the 20 in 3 and 19 in 4. About what I have set in the tables.
Then, the AE was way fat, with the afr dropping to 10.2 in AE. Looked at the log and dropped the TPS ae, now it goes to 12.8. any finally, leaning out the BST VE tables, getting closer, but it would go to 9.9 afr, now at about 11.2. I pulled some more just now, trying to get close to 12.8afr.
I keep getting random knock counts though, at like 3600 to 3800, at 15-18 lbs. I've pulled a tone of timing, fuel, still the same result. I'm going to check the torque of the knock sensor and see if that changes anything.
I ended up mounting the knock sensor on a short section of iron pipe. Before that just putting the trans in manual 2nd caused a constant stream of knock (false). Let alone random knock all over the place.
While checking the sensor torque, I may try that.
The car has new rubber motor mounts, new, but stiffer rubber, xmember isolators, poly trans mount. RJC HD engine brace. The DP is custom with NO contact anywhere, the "test" pipe is custom with a flex joint. The exhaust does hit anywhere either, it is all custom fit with clearance.
I've got the AFRs close (still rich), with safe timing, and 108 octane booster, and I can't hear any knock or pinging, and the plugs look good. So it's safe to say it is false I think.
So o have the PE commanded AFR at 12.8, I have boost at 22 in 1-2, 20 in 3, and 19 in 4th. The boost is pretty much spot on to the settings in the bin
The afr on the other hand, is 10.8 to 11.4 in boost from about 190kpa up. When I did the ve tables, low speed and high, I ran around with the wg actuator unhooked. So I'm pretty confident the 100 kpa cells are good. Now I've been pulling fuel from the BST rpm/map pw multiplier table, and I got it from 9.9 or richer, to where it is.
My numbers are substantially lower then what was originally in the supplied bin, I've attached a picture. Is this normal? I've been reading the datalog and dropping the values a little at a time.
Also, at 20 psi on 93, is 12.8 good?
> Also, at 20 psi on 93, is 12.8 good?
No, want it richer then that. At 20 psi I run about 11.2 AFR. This too is on 93 (Sunoco). By 24 psi it is at 10.9 - 11.0 AFR. This is tapered in from 12.8 at 100 KPa (0 psi).
Not sure what is going on but I know I had issues when the secondary pump kicked in. The fuel pressure jumped quite a bit due to an insufficient return line. Made for all kinds of issues regarding the fueling. Here is the latest table:
The boost runs up to 24 - 25 psi max (270 KPa), and 5000 RPM max. No alky at this time.
Hmm, ok, I suppose I could leave it where it is then, since by max boost I am 10.8-11 on 93 looking at the log.
Right now I am running the one pump, the other is off. I have a 1/2" SS hard line for the feed, and 3/8 SS hard line for the return. The rail is modified so there is no restriction. The whole fuel system is new and stainless.
Your table really ramps up. Hmm, not sure why mine was s more flat? I am running MSD 50's with 43psi with the vacuum line off.
Haven't been on here in awhile. Did RBob actually share some of his personal tuning?
Yeah that's too lean for boost, most run richer than that even w/out boost at wot...
My sbc with the ebl ran the best quarter with a 12.8-13.1 AFR at wot. It had vortec heads, and also liked more timing than recommended. Give the engine what it wants right?
That being said, I got it at 10.8-11.2 AFR. With the datalog, each fraction of a second doesn't show the same actual AFR, as you know.
I won't be doing to much more tuning this year, the tranny isn't shifting too good at WOT, and the stock turbo is junk, it has 3/16" axial play.
So, I'm looking for an upgrade.
That's honestly an easy fix for the turbo, and I'd hate to see you waste money on another one. Axial play is just a thrust bearing replacement. Just upgrade to a 360 degree bearing if it doesn't have one already, pop it in and call it a day. As for the transmission, when was the last time you reset the detent cable setting...?
Rob, any tips on where to get a kit? I have 2 stickers that need bearings.
As far as the tranny, when I fabricated the deep pan, and put the rear bottom mount filter, I set the TV cable so the Piston is bottomed out when wot. Also used a pressure gauge to confirm.
I'm confident that's good. The 1-2 shift at work is a slide, I haven't checked the servo travel, the band may be going on it.
The Garrett kits are the most common, just try to source one on ebay from a seller that has good feedback. The kits range anywhere from thirty to seventy dollars, and essentially come with everything. The shaft size is the key, as my latest turbo employs the larger shaft, so pay attention to the specifications before ordering. When I rebuilt mine, I had debris from the piston get into the oil (piston ring pinched the piston at high boost, piston clocked, and number one cylinder was wedged, rod bent and piston destroyed) scratch up the shaft and destroying the journal bearings. Too much boost on a stock bottom end SBC, had the rings been filed it never would have happened. Anyways I removed the turbo shaft, smoothed it down, bought a fifty dollar Garrett rebuild kit, replaced all three bearings and seals, and the turbo has been flawless ever since. Usually come in just the two sizes (small shaft/large shaft), but measure anyway before ordering.
Rob, thanks for the info. I'll look around on eBay and see what I can find.