excessive end play on crank snout.

[joe_schindler]

It was up and down movement, not in and out movement.

I’m not sure I’m completely following this. If you have 0.003” runout at the hub; the crank is likely bent. If you have 0.003” up and down movement; and little side to side; it’s probably bearings.

While it’s hard to bend a crank; it’s almost impossible to bend a hub without some outside impact.

 

[SS_Sean]

I spoke with my new engine builder about this (not the guy who built the motor - he killed himself a couple months ago and I have lost the ability to speak with him about this problem). The crank was sent up to Portland, OR to a crank turning place and the crank was turned. So according to the new engine builder if there is any problem it would be on the snout based on how they chuck up and turn the cranks at that facility. I don't understand all this stuff, and that's why I asked. The bearings are new, and everything has been machined and balanced, etc. The crank is bent at the snout. Now I'm trying to figure out how to deal with it.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"So according to the new engine builder if there is any problem it would be on the snout based on how they chuck up and turn the cranks at that facility."
Assuming the crank has not been dropped, or otherwise damaged during it's trip back home....

 

[dr_frankenstein]

"So according to the new engine builder if there is any problem it would be on the snout based on how they chuck up and turn the cranks at that facility."
Assuming the crank has not been dropped, or otherwise damaged during it's trip back home....

+1

I can see that happening. probably went out good, got turned good, and shipped back good.

until the UPS guy drops it right outside the door waiting for you to answer.

A.j.

 

[SS_Sean]

LOL....friggin UPS.
It is what it is, and it aint perfect!

 

[joe_schindler]

I spoke with my new engine builder about this (not the guy who built the motor - he killed himself a couple months ago and I have lost the ability to speak with him about this problem).

That would make conversations difficult.

The crank was sent up to Portland, OR to a crank turning place and the crank was turned.

Most shops do them about the same. Some are just better at it than others.

So according to the new engine builder if there is any problem it would be on the snout based on how they chuck up and turn the cranks at that facility.

I can’t imagine how special that a chuck would have to be in order to grind a crank with an offset left in the snout. I guess it could be done by moving the cutter; but it would be difficult to keep up with.

I don't understand all this stuff, and that's why I asked. The bearings are new, and everything has been machined and balanced, etc. The crank is bent at the snout. Now I'm trying to figure out how to deal with it.

I don’t understand it either.

 

[SS_Sean]

Going to order a BHJ balancer today and I'll live with the .003 on the snout. The good news is that figure was taken at the very end of the snout so .003 is the worst of it.

Thanks for the help, guys. I appreciate it very much.

 

[SS_Sean]

Just talked with the mechanic and that was .035 movement in the crank snout, so that means I get to tear the motor down again and put a new crank in with balanced parts. Third time I'll have had this motor out in a year.

 

[turbofabricator]

The crank CAN be replaced IN the car. Pretty easy to do on a lift. I've done it a few times on my back, too. (more times than I care to remember, actually) You can order a new crank, and take both cranks to a good balancer guy, and he can balance the new crank to match the old crank. If the crank in the car is a stock piece, then you can get away with slapping a new one in there and be on the road in a few hours. Pulling the engien is the best way, but NOT required fro sure. If it was me, I would R&R the crank in the car. Too easy to justify the extra labor to R&R a complete engine.

 

[bison]

The crank CAN be replaced IN the car. Pretty easy to do on a lift. I've done it a few times on my back, too. (more times than I care to remember, actually) You can order a new crank, and take both cranks to a good balancer guy, and he can balance the new crank to match the old crank. If the crank in the car is a stock piece, then you can get away with slapping a new one in there and be on the road in a few hours. Pulling the engien is the best way, but NOT required fro sure. If it was me, I would R&R the crank in the car. Too easy to justify the extra labor to R&R a complete engine.

You would have to know the weight of the bobweights used on the crank you are replacing to be able to balance a different crank to the rest of the rotating assembly thats in the engine.

 

[SS_Sean]

...and I don't have that information. Like I mentioned above, the guy who machined the motor for me offed himself a couple months ago. Sounds like I'll have to pull the rotating assembly and have it balanced again with the new crank....

 

[ttaowner]

...and I don't have that information. Like I mentioned above, the guy who machined the motor for me offed himself a couple months ago. Sounds like I'll have to pull the rotating assembly and have it balanced again with the new crank....

did he kill himself because he did crappy work? just curious?