Stranded. Fuel pump is not running.

[HighMileage]

Jump accross the relay itself.

Fat red feed from alternator which should have power and the red output wire that goes to the gray wire in that connector.

Don't ground anything.

That's the hot wire relay too NOT the factory fuel pump relay on the fender.

I knew I should ask first because I'm the "Ground and Fry" expert.

Ok,I unplugged the Hotwire relay and jumped red to red at the plug. ....nothing.

Dropping the tank (which was just filled!) is my last resort,but it looks like I have to.

I'm gonna first look into Plain White T's suggestion that the wire is fried in the sender. This is a brand-new stainless sender from a vender here.

Tomorrow is another day.

 

[Steve V]

I would get out the DVOM and check power and ground that way before I drop the tank.

 

[HighMileage]

I would get out the DVOM and check power and ground that way before I drop the tank.

Thanks for the reply.

How would I check for a good ground? The grounding tab for the Hotwire kit is properly grounded.

But what other ground is there to check?

Do these cars use the ground to switch/complete a circuit?

Keep in mind my GN is rustfree and is never driven in rain. So,a rusty ground is probably not gonna be the issue.

I can see myself dropping the tank for no reason. Just sayin'!

 

[Steve V]

Red is usually 12 volts at hot wire relay at all times. After relay only when it has been triggered by factory wiring. Black is ground and relay is usually grounded near bumper support. If thats all good check it at the pump and then if all is good then only thing left is the pump.

 

[HighMileage]

I would get out the DVOM and check power and ground that way before I drop the tank.

This is what I got as far as Ohmic value when checking between the gray and black at the pump pigtail: 116 ohms

See pic.

Q: Is this a brushless pump?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"Keep in mind my GN is rustfree and is never driven in rain. So,a rusty ground is probably not gonna be the issue. "

Doesn't have to be "rusty", only a film of corrosion due to weather, age, can cause the issue.
Example: My 55 is NEW, down to every nut/bolt/screw, incl the wiring.
Redundant grounds all over the car. Neg cable directly to the engine, all ground studs welded in. Gas ga funky. Should be <2 ohms, had 22! Cleaned, reinstalled the grounds, <.2.

 

[HighMileage]

"Keep in mind my GN is rustfree and is never driven in rain. So,a rusty ground is probably not gonna be the issue. "

Doesn't have to be "rusty", only a film of corrosion due to weather, age, can cause the issue.
Example: My 55 is NEW, down to every nut/bolt/screw, incl the wiring.
Redundant grounds all over the car. Neg cable directly to the engine, all ground studs welded in. Gas ga funky. Should be <2 ohms, had 22! Cleaned, reinstalled the grounds, <.2.

You know,Chuck,I do have a funky gas gauge. It was funky before and after the new sending unit.

How can I check if the pump is grounded correctly? I believe the grounding clip from the Hotwire relay is just for the relay. Good contact there. But how does the pump ground?

Any thoughts on the 116 Ohms when checking continuity thru the pump? (Last pic)

I just can't believe this 2,000mi DW pump is bad.


Thanks for your input.

 

[Daniel Jost]

Ground is supplied to the pump and gauge through the black wire. If your gauge is not reading right you can jumper the sender wire to the ground and it should read 100% full (Or empty I cant remember, reverse of what ever it is disconnected). A lot of time you will also see a ground from the tank to the frame. I have a jumper I built on both sides of the tank to the frame!

,Dan

 

[dynoman]

116 ohms is way to much, should be closer to 2 to 3 ohms , sounds like a bad connection up top or bad pump. I just checked mine and it is 2.6 ohms. with 12volts supplied and 116 ohms of resistance (12/116= .10344 )you will only draw 1/10th amp , that's why you didn't blow a fuse. Sam

 

[Chuck Leeper]

116 ohms is way to much, should be closer to 2 to 3 ohms , sounds like a bad connection up top or bad pump. I just checked mine and it is 2.6 ohms. with 12volts supplied and 116 ohms of resistance (12/116= .10344 )you will only draw 1/10th amp , that's why you didn't blow a fuse. Sam

I think my 55 just suffered the same fate!
I was going for a short ride..Hit the key to prime, weird noise, a short engine start, dead, no pump prime. No fuses blown, direct jump to pump, no workie!
This is a new, Supra pump w/ 1500 mi on it. Entire fuel system is new, redundant grounds, yadda, yadda.

I'll check across this pump, and report back. I suspect I too, will find what Sam has described.......[Have a spare pump in stock, but it's still a PITA to change.]

 

[HighMileage]

I think my 55 just suffered the same fate!
I was going for a short ride..Hit the key to prime, weird noise, a short engine start, dead, no pump prime. No fuses blown, direct jump to pump, no workie!
This is a new, Supra pump w/ 1500 mi on it. Entire fuel system is new, redundant grounds, yadda, yadda.

I'll check across this pump, and report back. I suspect I too, will find what Sam has described.......[Have a spare pump in stock, but it's still a PITA to change.]

Your pump just went bad,too? Sorry to hear.

Hopefully your tank isn't near Full like mine is. I was at the gas station when mine quit.

I tried siphoning. The baffles are blocking my siphon hose.

This is gonna be fun bench-pressing a full tank. Plus I'm on the floor in a garage that's below freezing.

Oh well,time to get out the wrenches.

 

[salvageV6]

Floor jack with wood for raising height and plywood on that to distribute the weight works to support it well enough.
Theres lines at the rubber to metal pipes that need to be unclamped before you fully lower it.

 

[HighMileage]

I had a similar situation happen to me and I too am running the DW pump w/hotwire.

I dropped the tank and found that some of the wiring on the sender inside the tank was literally fried.

I just dropped the tank and pulled the sending unit. Yup,the prong under the sending unit is burned and plastic is melted. See pic.

I wish I would have known this needed to be upgraded before I put all of this to work. I redid the whole return line,etc.

This sending unit is a stainless Delco one from a vendor here. I'd really hate to trash it because if this.

Maybe I'll drill a small hole on top for heavier wires..

Does Casper make anything heavy duty for sending unit wiring?

 

[dynoman]

That is exactly what happened to my car & truck, Racetronix has the parts you need. Glad you found it. Sam

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Your pump just went bad,too? Sorry to hear.

Hopefully your tank isn't near Full like mine is. I was at the gas station when mine quit.

I tried siphoning. The baffles are blocking my siphon hose.

This is gonna be fun bench-pressing a full tank. Plus I'm on the floor in a garage that's below freezing.

Oh well,time to get out the wrenches.

Oh no..... Murphy resides here, too. Full, and driven only 2 mi to the garage! 16 gallons of 91!
My tank is a Rock Valley stainless, w/ a separate sender hanger.
My floor jack has a plywood plate bolted to it. NP getting it down and back up. NP w/ a siphon hose, either. Still a MAJOR PITA...

That pic shows the common fault w/ the push on connectors. Just a "tad" loose, and they are toast.

 

[HighMileage]

What do you guys think of this? (Pic)

I just ran the + wire down thru the sending unit and soldered it to the + wire on the pump.

Heat shrink is used. Overlapping. Especially going thru the hole.

 

[PLAINWHITE T]

Just something to consider if you want an alternative:

http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=BCWA-G77&eq=

 

[Chuck Leeper]

What R U going to plug the hole with??

 

[HighMileage]

What R U going to plug the hole with??

I put a dab of Permatex Ultra-Black on top and under the sending unit in the hole that I ran the wire thru. It didn't require much.

I'm pretty confident in what I did. Now there isn't a wimpy connection under the sender. Just a fat wire running to the pump.

I'll make sure I see if the pump runs before I go further.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I put a dab of Permatex Ultra-Black on top and under the sending unit in the hole that I ran the wire thru. It didn't require much.

I'm pretty confident in what I did. Now there isn't a wimpy connection under the sender. Just a fat wire running to the pump.

I'll make sure I see if the pump runs before I go further.

That sealant is not fuel proof. Eventually, it'll turn to snotty slime, and you'll find it in the fuel pump filter...