Time to go stage II with A/C!

[kidglok]

I want to make this very clear. I am not suggesting that someone should run so little timing that you have fuel burning in the exhaust system at idle. Good grief. At 28 degrees timing, you are not burning fuel in the exhaust system.

Lol it's all about the happy medium

 

[norbs]

Lets not go crazy with idle timing..........lets get the car running...........

 

[turbobitt]

Norbs,

After you regroup and your head is clear, I think I would swap to the stock injectors and start from there. At least you will be taking out some of your injector questions out of the equation and also would be nice to actually keep it running without washing down the cylinders, not doing your rings any favors. Then you can start pecking away at your other small leaking issues.

Allan G.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Ask five people and you will get five diferent opinions. I would fix your other problems first before I changed anything.

Like Cal said. Fix the intake leak. Take the voltage down to 14-15 on the injectors. You can also lower the injector offset a little more to see if it helps. Don't be afraid of .4 just to see if it helps. Hundreds of sets out there on standard XFI and BS3 boxes are running the standard drivers. One V6 runs the 225's on a standard XFI box.

Lowest pulsewidth is about .6-.8 to have them operate well.

I was thinking about the car I have to run at .4 on the offset. It has a alternator on it that put out 18 volts and was pig rich at .9 inj offset. I had to get it down to .4 to get the idle VE numbers into the upper 20's.

Did you ever verify the timing on the balancer matches what you have in XFI? Just making sure your commanded 22 degrees is not actually 10 for example.

 

[Street Lethal]

Did you ever verify the timing on the balancer matches what you have in XFI? Just making sure your commanded 22 degrees is not actually 10 for example.

Spark reference angle, good point...

 

[Street Lethal]

I could tune the idle to have the engine run at a stable 155 degrees F while I sit idling in the staging lanes, waiting my turn, or I could change up the tuning to have it on the verge of overheating when I drive into the burnout box.

Wouldn't it just be easier to not touch anything in the tune, and run a trigger for the fans in conjunction with the PCM when you need extended and additional cooling on the fly, just before your burnout...

 

[Alky V6]

Wouldn't it just be easier to not touch anything in the tune, and run a trigger for the fans in conjunction with the PCM when you need extended and additional cooling on the fly, just before your burnout...

That really depends on how much extra cooling capacity you have onboard, and how well the fan(s) are working to cool the engine. Normally, temps don't come down very quickly after you kick your fans on. And, depending on the tune and cooling system capacity, even with the fans running, temps may only level out and stop climbing. If you're at the front of the staging lanes at 195 - 205 degrees F, kicking the fans on when the guy at the front of the staging lanes calls you up is not going to give you enough time to reduce engine temp enough to make up for the temp rise you're going to see after your burnout, and will not get you to a favorable engine temp before it's time to launch. As I was playing around with my tune to find something that would allow me to idle in the lanes at a favorable engine temperature, I found that with a tune that heated the engine on the high side, it was a pain to get the temp down where I preferred it being by the time I rolled up to the burnout box. In fact, I couldn't get the temp down. I would end up pulling to the line at around 200 F. Not an optimum situation.
In my case, I prefer to enter the burnout box with an engine temp of about 150 F. After the burnout, the engine temp is about 180 F. That's where the engine likes it. Actually, the engine likes a temp higher than that, but I like to give myself some cushion for the run.
In a gasoline application where you may be running a tune that is detonation limited, I would imagine you want to start your burnout with the engine on the cold side and maybe line up at the line with the engine temp around 165-170 F.
It's up to the individual to figure out the temp their engine likes to be at. I just gave my situation as an example. If you're a good tuner, you watch everything that's going on with your engine.

 

[Street Lethal]

That really depends on how much extra cooling capacity you have onboard, and how well the fan(s) are working to cool the engine. Normally, temps don't come down very quickly after you kick your fans on. And, depending on the tune and cooling system capacity, even with the fans running, temps may only level out and stop climbing. If you're at the front of the staging lanes at 195 - 205 degrees F, kicking the fans on when the guy at the front of the staging lanes calls you up is not going to give you enough time to reduce engine temp enough to make up for the temp rise you're going to see after your burnout, and will not get you to a favorable engine temp before it's time to launch. As I was playing around with my tune to find something that would allow me to idle in the lanes at a favorable engine temperature, I found that with a tune that heated the engine on the high side, it was a pain to get the temp down where I preferred it being by the time I rolled up to the burnout box. In fact, I couldn't get the temp down. I would end up pulling to the line at around 200 F. Not an optimum situation. In my case, I prefer to enter the burnout box with an engine temp of about 150 F. After the burnout, the engine temp is about 180 F. That's where the engine likes it. Actually, the engine likes a temp higher than that, but I like to give myself some cushion for the run. In a gasoline application where you may be running a tune that is detonation limited, I would imagine you want to start your burnout with the engine on the cold side and maybe line up at the line with the engine temp around 165-170 F. It's up to the individual to figure out the temp their engine likes to be at. I just gave my situation as an example. If you're a good tuner, you watch everything that's going on with your engine...

Good points Donnie...

 

[kidglok]

Lets not go crazy with idle timing..........lets get the car running...........

any progress norbs?

 

[norbs]

None too cold right now in the garage, lost interest ........still have wiring to do for the fast Dash might work on that on the weekend, after I finish a DFI cable that needs attention. Oil pressure sender leaking i ordered a new one.

 

[kidglok]

None too cold right now in the garage, lost interest ........still have wiring to do for the fast Dash might work on that on the weekend, after I finish a DFI cable that needs attention. Oil pressure sender leaking i ordered a new one.

Sometimes it's better to step away before you throw a wrench thru the windshield

 

[norbs]

Well Kidz.......got some hot plugs and , new pressure sender and stop leak, hopefully it will seal the head stud leak, and a vacuum gauge(just to confirm my map reading) but its still too cold out and i need to bypass the volt booster....but i'm on a mission.........I'd like to make the CAN bus wiring so I can get the fast dash working too...

 

[blackgn1]

Glad your still fighting it. It will all come together.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Well Kidz.......got some hot plugs and , new pressure sender and stop leak, hopefully it will seal the head stud leak, and a vacuum gauge(just to confirm my map reading) but its still too cold out and i need to bypass the volt booster....but i'm on a mission.........I'd like to make the CAN bus wiring so I can get the fast dash working too...

Nice mild day out. Put the scammer Bears down...get off the couch...and get at 'er. I'll be calling on my break tonite...and I want some results.

 

[norbs]

Nice mild day out. Put the scammer Bears down...get off the couch...and get at 'er. I'll be calling on my break tonite...and I want some results.

You and everyone else..........Might be going up for sale If it can;t meet my predictions..

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

You and everyone else..........Might be going up for sale If it can;t meet my predictions..

Very greatful you sold me your 109 junk over the years...but the stuff you have now...is way outta my league. A man's got to know his limitations.

 

[norbs]

Thanks for the kind words......but now on to other things...I'm up and running kinda with the new plugs, put the goop in, looks like the head studs stopped leakiing, a few more oil leaks poping up...its still running on 5.5 cyl's something is wrong. volt boost is unhooked will be posting data in a bit.. offset table table is shifted way down, really not too stable af. Here is a xfi data log if anyone wants to give me some idea's. Injector opening time is set at .44 MS@15 volts, I had to move it from .8ms, that is a HUGE change. I moved the whole table down, this is to get a VE of 20, but the af is still not stable.

 

[norbs]

On another strange note as I rev the motor with no load the vacuum actually is getting higher Kpa it should be getting lower at a steady rpm no?

 

[turbobitt]

On another strange note as I rev the motor with no load the vacuum actually is getting higher Kpa it should be getting lower at a steady rpm no?

With no load and high(er) rpm/low throttle angle, what your seeing is normal.

Allan G.

 

[HighPSI]

With no load and high(er) rpm/low throttle angle, what your seeing is normal.

Allan G.

I wouldn't say that is normal. Unless you are really reving it up, that condition causes the vacuum to increase and the kpa to decrease.